I'm planning on swapping my current B18c to a B16. What parts are compatible from the b18, that I can use on the b16: header, tranny/clutch, ecu...ect?

Reasoning behind all of this....it's the rainy season, and riding my motorcycle in the rain SUCKS!

I appreciate the help!

 

anyone?

 

What chassis is this swap going into? What is wrong with your b18c? You know that the B18c is way faster than any b16, right?

 

The b16 long block should be a direct swap. You might have to reroute some hoses and a new upper rad. hose though. The tranny and clutch and mounts should all work. I have a b16 block with a b18c1 head,intake,tranny,header,clutch,axles,shift linkage ect. in my 92 hatch. The only challenging part of the whole thing is modifing the timing cover to fit onto the shorter block. You shouldn't have to worry about that if you use a b16 long block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Demonteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What chassis is this swap going into? What is wrong with your b18c? You know that the B18c is way faster than any b16, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It'll be all going into my 95 civic coupe.

As far as what's wrong with the b18...I dunno, I know that either a valve went bad and it's running on 3 cylinders. It all was a gradual event and ending with driving about 10 miles like that to where it sits now. It will start and sounds really bad. I know it's running on 3 cylinders because it happened to me before with my sohc (fixed that problem with new plugs/wires). Though I don't know exactly what's wrong now.

Thanks for the help though I know the b18 is much faster, but I'm looking at getting it fixed quickly and the most cost effeciently right now.

 

Thanks for the help It is much appreciated and it answered most of my questions. Though there is more...

If you used the b16 block w/ b18 head, then what head gasket do I need (I was planning on doing the same exact thing, all depending on what part of the b18 is most broken ) Also, will I be able to use my b18c ECU? Do I have to wire for the Knock sensor? What timing and alternator belt did you use? And did you do any machining to either, block or head, before matting them up together?

Thanks again....the swap will start this weekend and I can use the motivation

 

maybe a obd2 to 1 change .....also y the swap to a b16? and the ecu prolly won't its usually best to keep the ecu that goes with the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe a obd2 to 1 change .....also y the swap to a b16? and the ecu prolly won't its usually best to keep the ecu that goes with the car</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the help

As far as why b18 to 16...availability and cost are the main reasons. Also I need to get this car running like, NOW, as it is my commuter/daily driver and the rainy season has just came upon us in Northern Cali. I don't want to ride my motorcycle in the rain either.

 

You can swap the b18 block for the b16 block and reuse all the other b18c1 parts. I used all the timing covers from the b18 except the lower, outer cover. I had to do some grinding on them to get them to fit right. Still looks good though. Swap the water tube and neck and oil cooler to the b16 block. The headgaskets are the same. Use a b16 timing belt. I used drive belts from a DelSol VTEC on mine 'cause I have a/c. I think the crank pulleys are the same anyways. You will not be able to reinstall the lower intake manifold bracket so you will have to make a small metal bracket to hold the metal heater hose union up. I think that is about it.

 

good luck with the swap

 

Right on....thanks for all the info

Since I'm in a transistion stage, I have time to do other things.....but one problem that I have also encountered is this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=675925. It's a halfshaft/axle problem, I can't get them apart. Need advice so I can take care of it before the big job comes in.

 

do a leakdown test and find out where the true prob is. if its the head, just swap that/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do a leakdown test and find out where the true prob is. if its the head, just swap that/</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it possible, now that the engine is out of the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thagreybomber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is it possible, now that the engine is out of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yes, a leakdown test can be done out of the car. You just need a source of shop air to connect to gauges.


PS: You do a "compression" test out of the car also, Just put juice to the starter and spin it over.

Leakdown test is MUCH better.. tells you exactly what is going on with the engine, unlike a compression test.