PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

I've noticed lately since parking the Integra outside overnight (was always garage-kept until I got my Miata in July), now when it's in the 20's or even 30's in the morning, cold start idle seems way high, like up around 2,300 to 2,400 RPM. After the car warms up it runs and idles perfectly at 750 +/- 50 RPM, as the manual specifies.

Have also noticed my dash lights pulsating while driving, most notably when raising the RPM when rev-match downshifting. Not sure if the cold idle and dash lights are somehow related through the alternator. The alternator on the car was originally off a 99-00 Si B16A, which I put on the car almost 15 years ago.

*edit* dang, just noticed the Si alternator is only 80 amp while the GSR alternator is 90 amp. Crazy that I've been running a lower amp alternator all these years. Wonder if that's why my car goes through batteries every 3 years??

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Anybody? ABS is acting weird, too, giving me a warning light at random times after starting the car, but not registering a code, then it will go away when I start the car again later. I've seen bad alternators cause WEIRD issues so I'm thinking I need to start by replacing that. I mean it's a 20 year old alternator at this point. Prob go ahead and replace the battery, too.

DCFIVER

Id start by cleaning/inspecting the fast idle valve,as its job is cold start idle. Ive seen multiple issues where the bottom ports on the valve are plugged with coolant build up. You can take it apart easy enough,but the O rings are not available any more,so once you commit,youll have to take the O rings somewhere to be matched up. If the seal inside the valve is bad,the valve is junk and youll have to replace it.

It doesnt matter too much. Those ratings are the maximum rated output. I doubt either alternator is outputting more than 60 amps at any time.

Battery life is highly dependent on battery quality and ambient temperatures(in addition to charging system strategy) Typically batteries last 3-5 years, anyway. (there are always exceptions,but they are not the norm.)

Your car is at the age where you will likely begin to experience a lot of electronics failures. Unfortunately for you,many of the modules in your 'teg are no longer available.

Id start by having the battery load tested,if it passes that test, then have it capacitance tested. Make sure the connections are clean and tight. Make sure you are not using the temporary battery terminals(the ones that are all lead) as they have a tendency to build up resistance, even if they look fine on the outside.

Make sure your main body grounds are clean and free of build up. You have to remove the bolts to check for build-up underneath the connection. A visual inspection is not enough.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

So my original ABS unit had a pump failure, causing DTC 1-0, pump motor overrun I think. I replaced the ABS unit with a used one off eBay back in January of this year, which made ABS functional again. But recently I've been having this issue with the ABS light coming on randomly, not registering any codes, and then going out later on. Annoying as hell.