Help me get this **** off!

I have this spare B16 laying around and I've never gotten the chance to rebuild it, partly because one of the flywheel bolts is basically fcuked. How can I get this off?

pic of motor


pic of flywheel (clutchmasters btw)


pic of flywheel bolt


Tried drilling it out, hammering the shiet out of it, tried Craftsman reverse drill, even tried heat, no dice. I thought about just taking the motor to a local machine shop and have them remove it. Any suggestions?

 

Hope someone can help ya Tim!

 

try drilling it out with a larger and larger bit then get a chisel and pond the living **** out of it. i had to do this to a broken lug bolt.

 

YOU SHOULD HAVE USED A PUNCH AND STAYED IN CENTER.
but try and see if you can start a reverse bit in center and like stated to bigger and bigger. I believe craftsman also has a socket for impact gun that can open stripped bolts like that.

 

your fucked, i hope your cranks going to be ok. You drilled it so damn off center, if it were mine i would try to get it centered 2. keep drilling it bigger not damaging the threads on the crank. Go to sears and get the biggest easy out that you can w/o ruining the threads on the crank. Heat the outside of the bolt and work it out with the easy out. If that doesn't work take it to the shop. If it were me i would take it to the shop right away avoiding the headache. That is pretty major leave it to the professionals in that case. peace

 

A chisel what is that guy talking about. This is a little more important than a simple lug nut froze on. DON'T USE A CHISEL

 

I would grind the remainder of the bolt head off, remove the scrap flywheel, and focus on the stud protruding from the crank. Often with the bolt head removed, the bolt shaft will unscrew with fingers. If not, weld a nut to the protruding bolt shaft and unscrew it that way.

 

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...ken=1

They sell larger ones.

This will work, the only possible problem being that your already fucked up the bolt by drilling out the edges of it.

They work every time.

 

Just grind the head off with a angle grinder than pull the flywheel off than the threaded part should unscrew out without any pressure as stated before.

 

thanks for the replies

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Attoir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...ken=1

They sell larger ones.

This will work, the only possible problem being that your already fucked up the bolt by drilling out the edges of it.

They work every time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

link is dead.

 

It's never happened to me with a crank/flywheel bolt, but in the past whenever I've dealt with those insanely f*ck'd bolts, I've just about always welded a bolt or nuts to the head of the stripped bolt. Nuts are generally easier as you can weld from both the inside and outside, but with the amount of drilling you've done, I don't know that it's possible. If you choose to take this route, clean it first as best as possible (wire brush on a rotary tool is probably your best bet), then put a decent amount of heat into it with the welder. Good luck!


Modified by Kataku2K3 at 11:51 AM 2/20/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would grind the remainder of the bolt head off, remove the scrap flywheel, and focus on the stud protruding from the crank. Often with the bolt head removed, the bolt shaft will unscrew with fingers. If not, weld a nut to the protruding bolt shaft and unscrew it that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

or just use a stud puller on it instead of welding a nut to it. and i would have dremeled the head off instead of a grinder

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trooper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try drilling it out with a larger and larger bit then get a chisel and pond the living **** out of it. i had to do this to a broken lug bolt. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if that doesnt work...

weld a nut onto that bolt and use the nut to loosen it....

 

If the head of that bolt is around 12 or 13 mm, take an american 1/2 inch bolt line it up and arc weld it to the remaining head with a 6011 rod. Keep your weld off the flywheel. Keep at the weld, going around. It does not have to look pretty, and it won't with 6011. Pretty much as soon as you are done, like when the BRIGHT red is gone, and it is just a dull red. Put a wrench to the 1/2 inch bolt head, and your problem should be no more.

Or, another approach, that might be easier, is to slip a 5/8 inch nut over the head of that mess. Have someone else hold it there steadily with channel lock pliers or such. Using the same 6011 rod, say a 3/32 inch rod, but with about 60 to 75 amps put the rod down inside the nut. With that much current, it should instantly strike. Sort of stirr around the id of the nut blasting that new metal in there. When the hole is pretty much filled, back off. Let the nut cool to a very dullish red, then wrench it. Again your probllems should be over.

Your not getting that stud out with any extractor, or vice grip type pliers. Either weld it like above, or grind the head off. That's the position you are currently in, IMHO.




Modified by BigMoose at 9:46 PM 2/20/2006

 

It looks like you have already ruineed your flywheel so what i would do is get an abraisive disk and an angle grinder and grind the bold flush that way the flywheel will come off, then you have a bolt that you can get ahold of.

 

Use locking pliers. Ive had to do that before... basically use a punch in the center, hit that with a harmer will someone is pushing on the pliers. I dont think pb blaster could do justice to that bolt ha

 

weld a larger nut on the face of that stripped bolt and crank it off with a long johnson bar.........

make sure you get some good weld/penatration on the nut.....

 

i had the same problem try welding a bolt that you can twist out.. works well when i got my tire lug nut fu*ked..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would grind the remainder of the bolt head off, remove the scrap flywheel, and focus on the stud protruding from the crank. Often with the bolt head removed, the bolt shaft will unscrew with fingers. If not, weld a nut to the protruding bolt shaft and unscrew it that way.</TD></TR></TABLE> Good advice right there!

 

Use the strip sockets! You can get them at sears and they work great. I have a matco set but they are the same thing.

 

You can also spot weld a nut and take it out

 

&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&g t;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;. DONT SCREW UP THE BOLT ANYMORE THEN WHAT YOU DID!!!

dont drill it out because your not going to be able to drill that thing straight. Use this http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...66000

Good luck. let me know how it goes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lastturn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&g t;. DONT SCREW UP THE BOLT ANYMORE THEN WHAT YOU DID!!!

dont drill it out because your not going to be able to drill that thing straight. Use this http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...66000

Good luck. let me know how it goes </TD></TR></TABLE>

i actually tried those, didnt really work

you guys are saying to weld a nut on top of the bolt... problem is i dont know how to weld lol, would overnight JB weld be good enough for this?

I was thinking of just removing the head so I can remove the flywheel and hope that the rest of the bolt can just come off by hand, as some of you have said...

i dont know, we'll see

 

the JB weld thing for sure wont work...

the thing is if you get the head off there will be only about a half inch of thread left on. If you dont break most of that off.

You could probibly screw it off after you slide the fly off because the thread would be torqued on anymore. Just then you would have to get a good pair of Vice Grips. ("The Old Speed Plyers")

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">problem is i dont know how to weld lol, would overnight JB weld be good enough for this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Heck no, jbweld doesnt fuse into the metal, its just putty.