are stock mounts strong enough?
putting a b18c1 in my teggy. turbo charging it and looking to get 300-350 HP. are the stock mounts strong enough or will they break? what HP should i switch to aftermarket?
Stock mounts are strong enough, they are just soft, making for some wheel hop, shifter movement, and driveline damage in extreme cases. You can fill them with Window Weld to firm them up, but your ride will become rougher and noisier, much like it will be with aftermarket mounts. Or you can drop the $ on Hasport or Innovative mounts, both of which are decent.
I've used Hasport mounts in multiple cars. I have them in my race car now and they are great. I know people that use Innovative mounts and have seen several sets, they look fine as well.
For Window Weld, you just fill the mount with it, like this:
http://www.importnut.net/motormount.htm
For the $, I don't think that there will be anything to complain about with it.
Energy Suspension also makes polyurethane inserts for the stock torque mounts, I have used them and they seem to work, just not as well as the Hasport mounts.
For Window Weld, you just fill the mount with it, like this:
http://www.importnut.net/motormount.htm
For the $, I don't think that there will be anything to complain about with it.
Energy Suspension also makes polyurethane inserts for the stock torque mounts, I have used them and they seem to work, just not as well as the Hasport mounts.
I'm telling ya, if you go with stiffer mounts...you will hate your ride comfort as far as noise. BIG waste of time i layed on myself when I used motor mount inserts. Eliminated wheel hop, but the dash and interior vibrated like crazy.
have solid mounts in my car right now (drove it across country with them) so i feel your pain...on the plus side they made it easier to stay awake lol. i dont mind a little vibration, just want my mirrors to be functional instead of showing triple lol.
Aftermarket mounts are very stiff.
I think around 300hp you should be fine with the OEM mounts. In rare cases have I heard of OEM mounts failing. If I have heard of it, it's usually combined with the OEM ones being in bad shape.
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I used the window weld on just the rear (under the intake manifold) mount on my daily driver.It definitely firmed up the front to back movement,but the vibration level didn't change.
Filling the mounts with 3M window adhesive is a notch stiffer than stock - vibration wise.
Using the 3M adhesive to hold the urethane inserts in place is the next step up.
Solid mounts are for the guy that doesn't mind wearing earplugs because his bulkhead vibrates and resonates with the cab. Heat exchangers may tend to fail prematurely with stiff mounts.
Using the 3M adhesive to hold the urethane inserts in place is the next step up.
Solid mounts are for the guy that doesn't mind wearing earplugs because his bulkhead vibrates and resonates with the cab. Heat exchangers may tend to fail prematurely with stiff mounts.
Factory mounts will work decently at that power level, although it doesn't hurt to stiffen things up, as there is quite a bit of engine movement when making that power.
I have factory GSR mounts with Energy Suspension inserts (two torque mounts and rear engine/trans mount) and they have held up great over three years (with this year making 320-370 whp). My engine moves very little with just them in. You will have some vibrations with them at idle, but not nearly as much as Hasports or Innovative mounts. Depends on what you want.
I have factory GSR mounts with Energy Suspension inserts (two torque mounts and rear engine/trans mount) and they have held up great over three years (with this year making 320-370 whp). My engine moves very little with just them in. You will have some vibrations with them at idle, but not nearly as much as Hasports or Innovative mounts. Depends on what you want.
i heard that 3m window adhesive was almost as stiff as solids? heard about a few guys filling their mounts with 60a urethane, think i might go with that.
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