Don't let yourself get distracted. The tests I have suggested will pinpoint the short. Good luck.

 

Actually that is incorrect. An excessive draw is not a fancy name for a short. There are shorts to ground and shorts to power and determining which is in effect will determine the diag path to proceed with. An excessive amperage draw by a faulty motor or solenoid is a whole different problem. Any how I had not read that you have already determined it to be a short. I thought the OP was still trying to figure out what was wrong. Carry on....

 

I do see your point. In this instance, neither the starter motor nor solenoid is protected by fuse 31, and the OP has found a short to ground and now just needs to pinpoint it. The short appears to be located in one of several possible connectors. One more round of short testing could identify the culprit.

 

So I checked the bluw/white white from the plug and it has continuity to body ground, I checked between the green/yellow wire from the main relay to ground and it has continuity, then I check between the two yellow/green wire from the main relay for continuity because from what I believe the diagram shows that it shouldn't have any with everything at off, but it does have continuity between eachother which they shouldn't, is this correct or am I wrong. So I'm thinking it could be part of this?

 

I don't understand why you are now testing the Yel/Grn wires. You are losing focus and could speed things along by addressing all of these previous points:

Unless you give very clear answers, I can't help you get beyond this point.

And what plug are you referring to here:

 

From the c420 plug, I splice two new wires that goes one into the main relay and the other to the ecu to replace the two blue/white wires. I check continuity from both of the new wires to body ground and it showed it did on both. So I check continuity without the new wire that is going into the main relay by itself to see if it is getting grounded from the main relay itself. The reason I check the yel/grn wires that is coming out of the main relay is because from what I can understand shouldn't haven't current going through it with the engine off correct? So that's why I check in thinking that it could be getting a short from the main relay itself.

 

 

i think im gon have to redo some of the test to be sure of things, the reason i was thinking it's through the main relay is because the fuel pump stays on at the ON position.

 

Okay, so now the fuse doesn't blow, but still doesn't start, everything is there to start but doesn't.

 

figuring it out...got it to start now dealing with a new problem, i'll see how it goes this week

 

Okay, i got the car running perfectly now. thank you for all the help man...couldnt have done it without ur help RonJ@HT. ive been driving it for about 2weeks now, 1200 miles on the new engine and everything is good...thanks again.

 

soo what was the problem i am going through the same thing right now