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I have a 90 Accord coupe with a f22a3 motor. I have recently rebuilt almost the entire car. Shaved and tucked bay ,ac, ps, cruise, fitv and brake boost delete. Damn near everything is brand new.
about a week ago while driving I pushed in clutch and neutral to coast to a stop. It started to bog down and when I hit the brakes it was barely running. Push on gas and it struggled but got the idle back and then drove fine. Got it home and turned the idle screw up a little and it drove fine
A few days later it started doing this again and did it almost every time I came to a stop. Got it home and reset the timing and valve lash as all that stuff is new and nearing it's break in time. It has an adjustable fpr and I checked that with a tester and it checked out good... running 36 lbs. Not depending on the gauge on the fpr as it's liquid filled and mounted horizontal.. checked with a real gauge.
Last night I checked the main relay with volt meter and everything checked out fine. Went and bought a bosch o2 sensor. Took for a test drive and it started sputtering at the end of my road ( football field length).
The car will start on the first try everytime and idles fine in my garage. I am getting stumped on what to test or replace now. Could my ECU be going out? Could it be the main relay acting up when the car hits bumps in the road? I did take it apart and sauter two of the points that looked like they had hairline fractures.
Also my cooling fan doesn't come on. It did about two weeks ago and now it doesn't. I have changed all the sensors related to the cooling system. Could this have something to do with the ac delete? I have the ac fan hooked to a toggle switch. Both fans are high output, brand new and do work. Any advice on this issue would be greatly appreciated also.
At this point I'm almost thinking of getting another engine harness from the wrecking yard and turning it into a tuck harness...even though I just did that and made sure everything was proper ( depinning and sautering wires).
Im getting really close to ghost riding this thing off a cliff...any and all help would be more than greatly appreciated.
No check engine lights? Does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds right away when you turn the key to the on position, or is there a delay (up to several minutes)?
Check light has came on sometimes with code 43. I did install a walbro 255, cleaned tank although it really didn't need it. New filter and cleaned and checked injector voltage which was all good. The only thing I didn't repace is the fuel gauge sending unit.
So I pulled the plug on the iacv and the idle dropped to around 200... can't be that. Thought could it be something as stoopid as the gas cap, jacked the one off my girlfriend prelude and went for a test run...bogged down...so its not that. This time it actually died... when I went to restart I didn't hear the pump prime and a no start three tries...on the forth time it started.. I'm leaning towards the main relay. Gonna go hit the wrecking yard as thats cheap but I have a feeling I'll be buying a new one. Here's my question now... Can a main test good in the garage but when put under driving conditions start crapping out?
It's possible. If you pull it off and open it up, you can usually see the cracked solder joints which cause intermittent problems. If your fuel pump doesn't run every time, it could be the capacitors in your ECU.
Yesterday I went to the wrecking yard and got 2 good main relays and a map sensor... no charge. I did sauter two joints on my old one. Installed both and car is still doing the same thing. How do I test the ECU without having access to a known good one?. It wouldn't surprise me if it is the ECU as thats about the only thing that hasn't been replaced in the entire car...u swear this thing is cursed.
Trying to show the top resistor, capacitor? But I looked at pictures of other pt3 ecu and that's how they are. I solved the issue though. First I made a cheat sheet of all the ecu pins and went through them...all good. I took off the iacv and cleaned the screen, didn't really have any carbon on it. I broke loose the allen wrench screw on the ecu so now I have another idle adjustment and I can manipulate that damn thing. Then deleted the charcoal canister...ran the line to the tank to the purge hose... disconnected the vacuum line..left it open and hid it under the cowl...blocked off nipple on t.b.... I was running it like this before with no problems and I don't have to worry about emissions. Then I checked fuel pressure and I was running about 6 lbs rich...dialed that in....then retarted the timming to about 2 degrees btdc. Disconnected the iacv..started her up and set the base idle...reset ecu ...plugged in iacv and dialed the idle on the t.b. and iacv. Just got back from a 2hr. Cruise...ran great...no stall...no surge....no ghost ridding her off a cliff today...lol. thank for the replies... I appreciate it. Helped me open my mind up.
Stalling issue
