A couple of week's ago my car died on me at a redlight. I thought it was a distributor problem so I replaced the distributor. Timed it to 16 degree's and it still idles from 300 to 1200 back and fourth like a vacuum leak. After the car die's sometime's it won't start and after long period's of time it will start for a couple of second's then die. After I replaced the distributor the car was running but with a flucuating idle (drove it for about an hour). Then the next day I drove it the rpm's were bouncing around and it was sputtering. Other than doing a compression test does anybody else have any idea's? Thank's.



Modified by 95eg6 at 6:28 PM 11/22/2005

 

ttt

 

bump

 

I would also like to know. I am having the same problems.

I have a C5 block GSR head. Pretty much stock with bolt ons.

 

bump

 

ttt

 

bump

 

well, the car dying problems sounds like a PGM-FI main relay problem...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Takumi Fujiwara &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, the car dying problems sounds like a PGM-FI main relay problem...
</TD></TR></TABLE> Thats the ANSWER!!!

 

When you say the RPMs are bouncing around, are you saying that the tach is bouncing around or the jerking/stuttering motion of your car correlates with the tach's movement?

 

I tried another main relay but my car still die's after about 5 second's. I can smell fuel. When I try to give it gas it die's right away. Any other thought's?


Modified by 95eg6 at 9:47 AM 11/24/2005

 

ttt

 

i had a problem like that on my motor. try the t.p.s. my was so bad that when you took off it would hit about 3g rpm then it was almost like i took my foot off the pedal. it would drop back down to about 1g rpm with pedal on the floor. when it idled it would go anywhere from 500 rpm to 1500 rpm. i took the tps off. car ran good but sluggish. so try that. if thats not it a guy told me that a map sensor would do that. but dont know how true that is.

 

fitv fast idle throttle valve . locate right under the throttle body take it off and open it up and screw the white cap down it probaly came unscrewed like mine did

 

check your IAC on the back of your intake manifold, shold have two coolent lines going ot it and a plug for the sensor.. take the two bolts out, and take it off clean it with some brake cleaner or intake mani cleaner, thne put it back on... if it still does it then your iac is prob bad try and borrow someones and see if it fixes it.

 

Alright thanks for the suggestion's I'll try them today.

 

i would replace fuel pump

 

Well I havn't tried replacing the fuel pump yet. I had it idling for 5 minute's last night but the idle was flucuating and I couldn't time it. It kept going from 300-1200 again.

 

did you clean the iac? the fuel pump isnt going ot cause it to idle like that.. if you cleaned it and it doesnt fix the problem borrow someones iac that does work and try it

 

Are you throwing any codes? Even if it dies it should still throw a code into the memory of the ecu. Check it clear it out then get it to toss a code again that should get you going in some sort of direction.

 

Yea I tried and didn't get any code's. Now I'm going by process of elimination. I can't figure it out. I still havnt tried another IAC, tomarow I will have the chance.

 

The problem was the igniter. On the 95 gsr distributor's they have 2 small screws from the outside of the distributor that hold the igniter down but they were too long so the igniter was bouncing around.

 

good job on figuring it out man, i've never heard of it having that causing a problem

 

good to know

 

The igniter bouncing around ? on the outside of the distributor ... sorry i don't get it