I was in the process of changing a driveshaft today, and when I proceeded to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the balljoint after taking the cotter pin out. Well, while doing this the whole bolt snapped leaving a portion stuck inside of the control arm. How can I get it out? Any suggestions on my situation would be really appreciated. Thanks.

 

You'll have to replace the ball joint and not drive it until that happens.

If you can use an DC Integra lower ball joint, I've got a used one you can have.

 

Are you asking about how to remove the tapered portion of the balljoint from the LCA or how to replace the balljoint?

To remove the tapered portion of the balljoint, I'd use a puller. It looks like a screw with two 'fingers' on either side. Put the screw on the bottom part of the snapped bolt, fingers on either side of the LCA and tighten until the bolt pops out. You can usually borrow such a tool from your local parts retailer (autozone in the US?)

It looks something like this:


Next, you're going to have to remove the whole steering knuckle and take it into a shop. This means:

- upper ball joint
- tie rod end
- brake caliper.

You don't have to disconnect the brake hose, just remove the two bolt holding the caliper to the knuckle, and support the caliper. DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG ON THE BRAKE LINE.

Then take the whole mess into your mechanic, pay your hundred bucks and get it back with a new balljoint in there.

Just went through the same thing. Sucks ***, but when you get through it, you should be feeling pretty good about yourself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you asking about how to remove the tapered portion of the balljoint from the LCA or how to replace the balljoint?

To remove the tapered portion of the balljoint, I'd use a puller. It looks like a screw with two 'fingers' on either side. Put the screw on the bottom part of the snapped bolt, fingers on either side of the LCA and tighten until the bolt pops out. You can usually borrow such a tool from your local parts retailer (autozone in the US?)

It looks something like this:


Next, you're going to have to remove the whole steering knuckle and take it into a shop. This means:

- upper ball joint
- tie rod end
- brake caliper.

You don't have to disconnect the brake hose, just remove the two bolt holding the caliper to the knuckle, and support the caliper. DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG ON THE BRAKE LINE.

Then take the whole mess into your mechanic, pay your hundred bucks and get it back with a new balljoint in there.

Just went through the same thing. Sucks ***, but when you get through it, you should be feeling pretty good about yourself.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

No need for special fancy tool to pop the ball joint from the control arm. You need brass hammer and hammer the lower control same goes for the steering tie rod end. Or, you can use an long heavy duty pry bar to pop the lower ball joint.

 

Could you give some more details? Are you suggesting hammering on the nut on the bottom of the balljoint, or placing one hammer on either side of the hole where the balljoint meets the lca and beating on it until the thing just pops out on its own?

I've tried this in the past, but didn't have much luck. It's possible that I was just not doing it right...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HONDADNA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No need for special fancy tool to pop the ball joint from the control arm. You need brass hammer and hammer the lower control same goes for the steering tie rod end. Or, you can use an long heavy duty pry bar to pop the lower ball joint.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hammer works for me...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could you give some more details? Are you suggesting hammering on the nut on the bottom of the balljoint, or placing one hammer on either side of the hole where the balljoint meets the lca and beating on it until the thing just pops out on its own?

I've tried this in the past, but didn't have much luck. It's possible that I was just not doing it right...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, remove the cotter pins that locks the castle nut in place. then loosen the castle nut about 3/4 of the thread. This will prevent you from damaging the thread on the ball joint. Now, using a soft face hammer like a copper or brass type of hammer(you will need a 8-10oz brass or copper hammer) strike the lower control arm has hard as you can were the ball joint selection of the lowe control arm. If your doing this on the ground it usally take a few blows before it pops out.

 

The slip the new one back in using a vice, easy as