i like the idea of a b20vtec, torque is always good, but i would rather just keep my B18C. Ive heard that Darton makes sleeves that can be bored out pretty big. Id like to get a 2.0 or so. I did the math, and came up with 2081 cm^3 for a "B18C" with a 8.72 bore and stroke.

how would boring a B18 to a 2.0-2.1 affect redline ?
I have read before that a square engine (same bore and stroke) is ideal for high RPMs. It seems to me that adding more mass on top of the rods would only make the engine less RPM capable.

any ideas ?

 

Redline depends on what replacement parts you use, if you use forged rods and pistions along with keeping the GSR crank.....your bottom end should be...wait you will also need to look into a better water pump and oil pump. Then you will be good for 8500 rpm. I believe that the shorter the stroke the better it is for high rpm's I am not sure, but I will go and research it on F1 or some other extreme rpm site.

 

In my opinion, the slight increase in piston weight should not adversely affect your motor's ability to rev to its potential. As long as the engine is properly balanced and the stroke of the motor has not been altered, you should be able to get the usual 8500-9000 RPM out of the motor. You may not need to, there are 10 second 1.8L hondas that rev to 8200 rpm. As for the sleeves, somewhere in the 85mm range should get you ~2.0 liters and pistons, although pistons in 84.5 should be easier to find since they acheive 2.0 w/ LS stroke.

 

if i sleeve do i need a blockgaurd ?

also, who makes a larger bore headgasket ?


[Modified by D-SPEED, 10:28 PM 10/22/2001]

 

I believe that sleeving is the same as block guarding only you do it the whole way down instead of just at the top.

 

Check out this link: http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com
Very nice work, and it's inexpensive.

 

Here's a pic of a golden eagle sleeved block..
(borrowed from H-T member clendaniel)

 

that looks like it severly cuts off water circulation. Wouldnt that be quite detrimental to a block that is running high boost and high rpms ?

 

no, no, no, no, no........

Ok, first off, I'm not flaming you, so don't get upset.

Sleeves are completely different than block guards.

The factory sleeves are very thin, and not extremly strong. When someone sleeves their engine, they are removing the entire factory sleeves in order to put in thicker iron ductile sleeves capable of handling 30+ psi.

A block guard is a add on piece that just sits at the top of the factory sleeves, this can help to keep the factory sleeves from cracking, but I wouldn't trust it past 7-10 psi of pressure.

I think, and please don't take this as hearsay, that the factory sleeves (b-series) can only be bored .040 over stock. (40 over) MAXIMUM. If you want to go bigger, than you'll need to sleeve it.

I hope this helps, it's late as hell, and I'm really tired.


Now on to the question of the 2.0 or 2.1l GSR.

In order to achieve a 2.0, you'll need to use 84.5mm pistons. It's not too bad, but it actually turns out to be a 1955.99cc engine. **note, still using factory rods, with a rod ratio of 1.58**

Now, if you want to go to 2.1l GSR, you'll need to bore it to 87mm, in which you end up with a 2073.44cc engine. **again using factory rods, with a rod ratio of 1.58**

If you really want the extra torque and HP from this combo, you're best bet would be to swap in a H22. The amount of $$ it would take to achieve this level is more than you would spend for the H22 and install.

If you stroke the engine, the rod ratio falls even lower, and you won't be able to rev it as high reliably.

HTH, and good night.

 

it is all good, I believe taht I posted it in the form of a question, now I know thanx EJ1. BTW, what is the chasis for a 96-00 EJ2?

 

that looks like it severly cuts off water circulation. Wouldnt that be quite detrimental to a block that is running high boost and high rpms ?

 

EJ1 - For some odd reason, coupes are generally EJ1's from 92-2k. Don't know why....

 

My '97 Coupe is an EJ7

 

Oh, duh the vin huh.......I have an EJ7 as well. Well the 00 HX is the 97 EX is EJ8.

 

Damn, that is one fine looking block!

What does something like that cost altogether?

 

it doesnt cut off the water circulation... if u take a look at a head u will notice the holes for the water arent all that big either... hence, sround the sleeves is actually much more...

if u'v ever seen blockguards... they have a couple small holes around the cylineders when u put it in... these holes are just slightly smaller than what the passages to from the head to the block are... so basically having that much room as a water jacket is more than enough...

iv seen people with completely closed decked b series blocks... thats a secret though... shhhhhh

 

would there be any advantages to staying at 84.5 mm versus going higher ?
I mean, if your boring the block already, why not go 2.1 ? If you are not going to loose RPMs, i think it would be quite fun to have a high revving, high boost 2.1L

 

I am building a 84.5mm GSR block right now. It is sleeved by http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com . I chose them basically due to the design of the upper section of the sleeve. It's rock solid, yet it won't impede water flow/cooling. Ever seen a block guard? This is 10 times LESS intrusive.

For the head gasket, I used a Cometic gasket available from Endyn for 70 bucks. Tri metal, and 85mm bore, and it works with VTEC heads. Unlike modifying the stock B20 gasket, It's designed specifically for large bore VTEC blocks. And it's tri metal like the factory gasket!

You don't want the combustion chamber of the head hanging out over the piston area. This creates a hot spot, and you'll have a very inconsistant power making machine that will generate a lot of heat. It's not a difficult task - all you need is the head gasket. Place it on the head, and trace the outline of the bore. Then take it to nearly any machine shop (that has a Serdi anyway) and consider it done.

 

I agree, I would want to bore the sucker as much as I safely could

 

Do you have to modify the head or combustion chamber in order to accomodate an 84.5mm bore?

 

You don't want the combustion chamber of the head hanging out over the piston area. This creates a hot spot, and you'll have a very inconsistant power making machine that will generate a lot of heat. It's not a difficult task - all you need is the head gasket. Place it on the head, and trace the outline of the bore. Then take it to nearly any machine shop (that has a Serdi anyway) and consider it done.