Hey everyone!! I have a few questions about the skunk2 stage 2 cams. Is it true that the valves will hit each other when used with skunk2 valves,springs,retainers(basically all of there head parts)? Its a B16 head with a B18C bottom end with CTR pistons, if that helps. I would like to run the more aggressive cams than the stage 1 but I dont want to sacrifice the drivability as its a daily driver. Any comments/suggestions welcome. Thanx

 

if you adjust them to close together they will hit each other yes.
you need to check to see what your maximum range of adjustment is.

 

Sorry to jump in, B18C and b16A which one has more clearance when using the aftermarket cams assume CTR pistons+ Jun III??

 

which what has more clearance? if you mean cylinder head they are about the same

 

I mean the clearance between the valves and pistons.
The engine rebuliding at the moment, I'll get my car back next week, the garage didn't clay the engine, these are the set up.

B16A, CTR Pistons, JUN III cams, P+P and 2 thous milled and stock gasket.

I'm worrying the clearance problem now..

thanks

 

so basically with no adjustments made and with all those parts in there....they(the valves) will not hit each other?


[Modified by dx2si, 11:45 PM 2/13/2003]

 

No they won't. I was able to go +4 on the intake cam and minus 2 on the exhaust cam without valve to valve contact. My ideal setting turned out to be something completely different, but at zero, zero, no valve to valve contact.

 

thank you very much b19coupe!! I was getting kinda leary about the setup I had going. thanks for the help

BTW, if you dont mind saying....what was your ideal setting?


[Modified by dx2si, 3:57 AM 2/14/2003]

 

Yeah just don't get crazy with the cam gears. I like to turn mine over by hand a couple cranks to listen for any contact after any kind of adjustments. Not exactly fool proof, but it makes me feel a bit better.

I figured + on the intake and - on the exhaust would be the way to go on my setup too with Crower cams, but the best setting on the dyno thus far has been +2.75I & +.5E. This is with skunk2 gears.

 

actually...just turning the crank only lets you know if it's hitting on the non-vtec lobe. Honda sells a tool which essentially engages VTEC so you can check valve-to-piston clearence on the vtec lobe. I'll look up the part number and post it later, they call it an "air stopper" or something wierd.

As for the original quote...I'm not running the skunk valvetrain but I do have the Skunk Stage 2 cams with ITR outer springs and portflow inner springs and have no problem, even with +2 degrees on both intake and exhuast cams.

 

Yes I know, it's just a simple test. You can test Vtec lobes by putting solid pins through the rockers.

 

I dynoed at R & D in Gardena, and he found the most power at 0 degrees on the intake cam and +2 degrees on the exhaust cam. Every engine responds differently though, and what might be the best setting for me will probably not be the best for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;BLOCKQUOTE&gt;quote:&lt;HR&gt;

BTW, if you dont mind saying....what was your ideal setting?


&lt;HR&gt;&lt;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;
I dynoed at R & D in Gardena, and he found the most power at 0 degrees on the intake cam and +2 degrees on the exhaust cam. Every engine responds differently though, and what might be the best setting for me will probably not be the best for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What type of pistons were you using with the stage 2 cams. Also, What was the maxium degrees you could adjust the cams before vavle to valve contact ?

 

JE 12:1 pistons with extra deep valve reliefs, just in case. We never went past +4 on the intake, and power was dropping off, so i don't know about valve to valve contact. Those cams are kinda big, but valve to valve contact would be more of an issue with Stage 3's or Toda "D"s.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JE 12:1 pistons with extra deep valve reliefs, just in case. We never went past +4 on the intake, and power was dropping off, so i don't know about valve to valve contact. Those cams are kinda big, but valve to valve contact would be more of an issue with Stage 3's or Toda "D"s.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what kinda power didyou make

 

200/140-The stock Type-R exhaust was choking the motor. Working on new exhaust system.

 

Current engine-GE sleeved GSR block with 84mm bore, custom JE 13.5:1 pistons,Eagle rods, ARP head studs, stock head gasket bored to 84mm by GE. Type-R head massaged by Portflow,Toda "D"s, Toda valvesprings, TiN coated Portflow retainers, PE timing belt,Hondata Intake gasket,AEM cam gears,AEM FPR, AEM short ram,Erick's Racing throttle body, RC440cc injectors, DC Sports JDM 4-1 header(soon to be replaced by HiTech), Modified Type-R b-pipe, and stock Type-R muffler.Dropped engine in 5/3/2003.
About how much for this set-up. Also is it your daily driver? I'm thinking about building my motor.
Thanks

 

Cost me about $6000. Included purchase price of GSR shortblock-$450 and B16 head $400.Also,all new ITR lost motion assemblies and Type-R valves, gaskets,seals, bearings, etc. Thank God I do all my own labor-excluding machine work.