IgniteTeg

When installin the cam gears is there anything I should know before starting? I know to make sure and not lose that key hehe. I'm sure this is a bolt on type of stuff. While installin it should I leave it all 0??? Or should i advance and retard when just installin it. Or I need to take it to dyno. I don't want to take it to dyno yet cuz I want to wait for my ctr cams to arrive so I install everything at once and save me time & money for dyno hehe. Anyone got a good setup for a 01 gsr with i/h/e b&m fpr vafc advance 18° and skunk2 cam gears waitin for my ctr cams to arrive so for now stock gsr cams. I was thinkin hows intake +2 exhaust -1 Any help appreciated.

rainforest

take it to a dyno and just mnake sure all the timing marks line up. there you go.

MikeSarr_GSR

Every car is different. You will more than likely most benefit from installing everything on the cam and retensioning the timing belt when you install at
once. Remember if you do not dyno, you can do this: Be certain that the
fasteners are tight, be sure to do them in sequence across the gear, then
90 deg over and then across the gear, etc. This insures the proper tq is
on the gear fasteners so they wont vibrate loose. You can do this: if you are
still on stock head gasket, then 0,0 is the right setting for you. If you dont want
to dyno, you can do this. Set to +1 on the intake cam, put timing at 18BTDC.
Run the car to VTEC, shift to second, run to VTEC, shift to third. This is a good test to feel the car tug in all gears for daily driving. Advance the intake cam another degree and reset the timing to 18. Keep in mind, removing the upper timing cover is helpful and exposes 3 fasteners at a time. You will have to turn the engine over by hand or foot w/a 6" wrench and 19mm socket. Be sure the timing belt remains taut on the exhaust side. The tensioner is on the intake side, the tension is most important on the exhaust side because of the lond run back down to the crank pulley. If necessary, crank the engine over to TDC on #1, and cams at TDC. Remove the engine mount that is there and loosen the timing tensioner bolt 180 degrees. Then you need to crank the cam sprocket until you move it 3 teeth and then tighten the tensioner bolt. Check the deflection between the gears and be sure the belt is loose enough to breathe, but too tight to come off the gears.
Like I said, it would be good to keep an eye on these things when you start manipulating gears. The easy way I found is to loosen the gear except for one fastener and then loosen it when you get to TDC on #4 which points the cam down.
Then you can loosen that fastner and crank the engine clock or counter clock to ge the setting you want. Then torque the fasteners down, check deflection on the belt and run again, like mentioned above. Repeat this until you find it pulls the most on the intake cam, and then do one degree farther to feel a loss in power. Then you know you have gone too far and then back it off to the setting you had before.
Verify 18deg timing and then start advancing the exhaust cam. When I first did this, I had:

CTR/ITR cams
portflow/honda spring setup
skunk2 ti retainers
ITR Intake Valves
Endyn +.5mm SS flat bottom valves
3 angle valve job
2 angle on seat
skunk gears
milled head .0010", mugen head gasket .47mm = ".445mm"
stock is .70mm

I arrived at +3 intake and +1.5/1.75 exhaust at 18btdc not checking fuel
pressure. It seemed really nice with more fuel under 6K on this setting.

My bottom end is finally getting weak after 3 mechanical overrevs and
before the rods started knocking, I was trashing S2000s.

I have stock intake w/comptech drop in and fresh air mod, stock exhaust, ported/polished GSR manifold and TB, hondata thermal break with bypass, NGK wires, Denso Iridiums, all new tune up stuff. I estimate the engine was making
about 180-185whp/135-140tq on the ground before the knock started getting in the way...

Cam tuning is awesome...! I love it. Also keep in mind that a tighter valve lash will help the lift on the cams. .0065"IN and .0075"EX is what I reccomend!! It quiets them and makes a bit more power. Also, the ITR lost motion assemblies need to be installed with the cams. You will notice a loud tick when you rev back down from 6K or above sometimes if you dont, this is the GSR LMassy missing the mid rocker tit that drives the high lobe. This can eventually break the cam. I am going to do them and also look into the crane cams roller kit.

Good Luck with the tuning. I suggest doing the tuning on the car w/o the dyno first if you have the ability to. Then dyno with the setting you feel is the strongest. Explain you reasoning with the tuner, then you can get deeper on the dyno than if you did all that baseline **** on there, paying for it each time.

Have Fun and dont bend your valves with too much exhaust retard!!!

Mike in Orlando


[Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 11:36 AM 4/28/2002]

C-speed

Enjoy:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/caminstall/cam.html