skunk stage 2 or 3's
i hear that the stage 3's need at least 12.5-1cr but does anyone know if 12-1cr on a 84.5mm block would be enough to use these or would one be better off running the stage 2's.
also how hard are either one of these to tune
also how hard are either one of these to tune
stage 3s are quite capable of destroying an engine very easily.
be very careful if you plan to use them
be very careful if you plan to use them
By the way, the Stage 2's run fine with a minimum of tuning. Idle is almost like stock, only a very slight lope. Most people would not be able to tell.
[Modified by b19coupe, 7:58 AM 3/16/2003]
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weekend driver, i plan on claying the head and taking all precautions before installing them, i already have the skunk 2 valvetrain and gears, just waiting for my mind to make itself up
hows the tuning on the 3's
hows the tuning on the 3's
200/140 last time I dynoed. Lots of room for improvement. Just put the RC's on there and instead of waiting to finish my other motor, I stuck the Portflow head on this block. I am going to dyno later this week, hopefully I will see some improvement. If all goes well, will take the car to Fontana next weekend.
are you people talking from experience or just hear say. My friend evilxkid has had the stage 3's in his car for about 6 months now, it's a b16 w/ springs, retainers, and now it has ITB's, it frequently revs to 10k rpms and does fine daily driving. The block has never been touched the head hasn't even been pulled off of it ever! It's got the stock headgasked from japan! I don't understand why people think that cams can simply blow your motor up???
on the springs i recieved they are brand new in the box and have no markings but they are in seperate bags (intake and exhaust i suppose????) how do i tell them apart or are they different
also which way is up and down, the retainers fit tighter one way but still no marking or whatever.
also which way is up and down, the retainers fit tighter one way but still no marking or whatever.
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