This car I bought has the bolt that hooks the compensator arm to the chassis siezed. So Now I cannot adjust the caster for the rear. Any ideas how to fix it. i was thinking about drilling a notch in there to fit a closed end wrench and just snapping the bolt and trying to rip off the back side and stick a new bolt in there and when the alignment time cam yuo would have to hold the nut with a wrenche and tighten the other side. Any other ideas? Anyeon know if the rear nut (driver side) is loose or welded to the metal? thanks

 

?!?!

 

Same thing happened to mine on both sides. What most people do is cut the compensator arms off completely (new ones are only $35 or so). Then it's much easier to get the bolt out. I had to cut them out. You're probably gonna need a torch. I wouldn't go with your idea because you have to cut away part of the underbody and fold it back to get access to the back of nut. The rear nut inside the frame is on a track so it can slide back and forth for the adjustment. It slides in a cage that is welded I believe. Hope that helps.

The compensator arms I'm thinking of adjust toe, not caster though. The ones I'm talking about attach the end of the trailing arm to the frame of the car. I think those are the only pieces called compensator arms. The other is a camber adjustment which is right above the wheel hub. Are we talkinga about the same thing?

s


[Modified by stevel, 3:31 AM 9/5/2002]

 

There is no caster adjustment on the rear wheels, because they don't turn .

 

Ya steve thats the one I am talking about. I meant toe. So explain more what you had done please. Thanks

 

Well, get new compensator arms first. Just cut the old ones to shreds to get to the bolt. Then cut the collar from the compensator arm off around the bolt (so that you leave some of the bolt) so you can have something to grab with vise grips so you can get the bolt out. Like I said you're gonna need a torch most likely to unseize the bolt. Take out the bolts holding the rear trailing arm to the frame too to take stress off the compensator arm and to give you more room back there. That's all. Once you try it you'll see.

s


[Modified by stevel, 2:52 PM 9/5/2002]

 

good fawkin info Stevel!
I am dreading a rear disc conversion on my 92 cx for this same reason.... UGH!

 

Thanks Owen!

Also, don't forget when you replace the bolt that bolts the compensator arm to the frame that it's a grade 9 bolt. I actually had that bolt snap on me. I think I was a little too rough on it on the autocross course. Check the torque spec too, I just really cranked down on it, I'm sure the torque spec is pretty high, you don't want that moving on you. And use plenty of anti-seize on everything back there. That way if you ever need to replace stuff or adjust your toe you won't have to go thru this again.

s

 

Any shops that would take care of this? like what kind.

 

there's always butane torch too ... works like a charm

Greg

 

i don't know, butane torches only seem to be good for cooking hotdogs. Not an insult but I've just never been able to do much with them. An alignment shop should be able to do it. I took mine to direct tire (don't know if you have those) for an alignment and they found the problem and offered to fix it. They wanted like $65/hr for labor so I said forget it. It'll probably take 2-3 hours for you to replace them.

s

 

 

it happen you you Owen? What torch should I use?

 

well, if you haven't heard of it you probably don't have it or can't get it that easy. OXY- ACETYLYNE torches do the job nicely but you can't just go to sears and get it cheap. They come expensive and you need to know how to use them. Take it to a shop if the bolts are that bad.

s



[Modified by stevel, 4:57 PM 9/12/2002]

 

Never heard of it. these bolts will snap if I try to looseing them. where shoould I go? thanks

 

read the posts!!

a lot of places have torches. take it somewhere and ask.

s