rusted fuel lines and brake lines
wtf i went to a shop to do an oil change and i been going there for years every month and all the soden they tell me my lines r rusted front to back i go look at them and they r rusted as hell so question
this is a 5gen accord (95)
are the lines pure metal like do they have a rubber line in them
or am i prety much screwed, its pure metal cuz if it that means the metal till start chiping from inside as well as outside and from inside it will mix with the fuel am i correct ?
anyplaces i can get a kit to save money for new lines at the dealership the lines r 1000$ front to back and i mean they r just lines
this is a 5gen accord (95)
are the lines pure metal like do they have a rubber line in them
or am i prety much screwed, its pure metal cuz if it that means the metal till start chiping from inside as well as outside and from inside it will mix with the fuel am i correct ?
anyplaces i can get a kit to save money for new lines at the dealership the lines r 1000$ front to back and i mean they r just lines
Rust on the outside is ok, lots of people have rusted lines. It won't start rusting on the inside because moisture causes rust, so where there is high pressure gas, there's probably no moisture.
Is the kilobuck price the parts price, or parts and install?
The reason I ask, it is a real pain to change them all. If you search on it you will find a guy that said the subframe has to come down, and the gas tank down. That the factory bent lines won't really go back in with the engine and everything else still in, even removing the parts I mentioned.
I am still working up the courage to perhaps break the fuel line changing the fuel filter on my kids just bought 1996 Accord. I just tried wrenching it again today, and prudence got the better of me. Decided, "If it 'aint broke, I'm not a gonna break it before winter."
The reason I ask, it is a real pain to change them all. If you search on it you will find a guy that said the subframe has to come down, and the gas tank down. That the factory bent lines won't really go back in with the engine and everything else still in, even removing the parts I mentioned.
I am still working up the courage to perhaps break the fuel line changing the fuel filter on my kids just bought 1996 Accord. I just tried wrenching it again today, and prudence got the better of me. Decided, "If it 'aint broke, I'm not a gonna break it before winter."
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i think i might just sell it the parts were like 800$ and then its almost the same to get them put it its alot of work... well not really alot of work just gave to get **** out of the way like the tank but u know how mechanics are. for taking down the tank they will charge u 3 hours labour
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigMoose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... If you search on it you will find a guy that said the subframe has to come down, and the gas tank down...</TD></TR></TABLE>That might be me...
A shop with a lift might not have much trouble lifting the car & then lowering the subframe a few inches. I wasn't gonna be able to do that by myself.
Mine was a '95 Integra 4-door. When I look under our '98 Accord 4-door, it looks like there's enough room between the firewall & steering rack so you can snake the factory lines in thru there. On a Prelude? You gotta get under there & look for yourself.
Maybe the dealer mechanic HAS to do it the factory way. Check independant shops, lots of those guys know how to use bulk steel tube & bend it up to fit.
A shop with a lift might not have much trouble lifting the car & then lowering the subframe a few inches. I wasn't gonna be able to do that by myself.
Mine was a '95 Integra 4-door. When I look under our '98 Accord 4-door, it looks like there's enough room between the firewall & steering rack so you can snake the factory lines in thru there. On a Prelude? You gotta get under there & look for yourself.
Maybe the dealer mechanic HAS to do it the factory way. Check independant shops, lots of those guys know how to use bulk steel tube & bend it up to fit.
If they are not broken yet degrease them, use a metal etcher like Metal Ready or Ospho, and then paint the lines with por15 or, if you are poor, Rustoleum brand paint or equivalent. This will stop the rust from spreading.
i did both of my rear brake lines on my 4dr teg from the porportioning valves all the way to the rear discs.. cost me about $25 i parts.. shouldn't be too hard if you're mechanically inclined or have friends who are..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adam94lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah well thats ur rear brake lines... my rears and front brake lines and GAS lines are all rusted to ****.
</TD></TR></TABLE>At least you know from the beginning that you have to replace ALL of them.
Rear brake (2) & fuel lines (3) run together in the same tray. I went & bought the factory tubes before looking under the car (stupid...). When I realized the clearance problems it was too late.
I would have been better off buying bulk tubing, threading it thru, & THEN bending it into shape. Then using a flaring tool or compression fittings or whatever to make the connections.
</TD></TR></TABLE>At least you know from the beginning that you have to replace ALL of them.Rear brake (2) & fuel lines (3) run together in the same tray. I went & bought the factory tubes before looking under the car (stupid...). When I realized the clearance problems it was too late.
I would have been better off buying bulk tubing, threading it thru, & THEN bending it into shape. Then using a flaring tool or compression fittings or whatever to make the connections.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ninjaskillz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are this bulk tubing should i get them to do all the lines whats the price diffrence with them and factory tubes </TD></TR></TABLE>Since I was dumb & didn't do it that way, I don't know...
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hmong337
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May 18, 2010 06:34 PM





