Alright, on my Drag III turbo GS-R, I rebuilt the motor this past summer, have probably driven 15k on it tops (including a road trip to Cali), and my motor is starting to click click click click click click click click. I used a stethiscope, and it sounds like it's coming from the # 3 cylinder.

The odd part is, I drained the oil to find no pieces of bering coming out. I've considered it being wrist pins, but still, can't figure out what it is. The time bomb is ticking on my motor.

 

Check out the 3rd or 4th post (sauceman)on this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=332759

 

Right on. Maybe I should not drive my car until I can change the berings out... not unless I have to. Guess I should fix that CRX in my garage first, I think it has the FAR more advanced stages of what's going on w/ my car. Oh well, thanks for your help.

 

I would definately use teh CRX until you ruin your crank.

I regret ruining my crank.

 

How much does a "bearing job" cost for a B18C1? I'm considering having this done if very serious damage is at stake........If I can wait and just have the whole motor rebuilt in a year or two, then great, but if it's a bomb waiting to blow-up, and not toooo much to fix, then I don't think it would be worth the risk of waiting.

Thanks,
Nick

 

It's mostly a matter of the time it'll take to do the job, because the bearings themseives wouldn't cost much more than , say 40 or 50 bucks.

But the job means taking off the crossmember, the pan, gasket (carefully), unbolt and inspect bearings, measure (a procedure specifically for this, remember, you have at best 3/1000ths tolerances at best), rebolt with the right torque values, put back the pan, gasket, start engine and listen for knock. If there still is knock, it means your bearing is too lose. Start over again!

If you hear no sound, but after a few minutes the engine overheats and either seizes, or starts knocking again, it means your bearings were too tight. Start over again(if the engine is still worth it)

This means, if you're going to DIY, you better know what you're doing, and if not, count a minimum 8 hrs at the garage just to be sure. If you don't want to assume this, and/or your block is available relatively cheaply, you might want to just change the block.

 

Trippin' dude. Berings cost more than $25. ACL's go for $110. It's not "too tight" or "too loose". There's no "front crossmember" there's a subframe in some of the cars, but Integras and EG/EF civics don't have them, neither do Integras. All you have to do is take the header/downpipe off, then drop the pan and unbolt the rods one at a time, take the old berings out, put the new ones in. Not really an 8 hr job.

 

Yeah, I'd agree with that last post...........or at least hope that it's not an 8-hour job..... And I'm still assuming that it's the bearings that are making the noise.......Who knows if it's not piston slap, or a bad oil pump, or something else similar. Either way, the rest of the engine is VERY clean internally, with excellent compression test results, so if I can replace bearings for cheap and not have to worry about rebuilding for a long time down the road, then I'd like to get this problem worked out.

Thanks,
Nick

 

Sure. It can vary. I got an Accord. That's the way they're built. You seem to know about civics and tegs. But when I'm talking about up to 8 hrs, I make it worst, because it is an adventure if you don't do it right, It could be done in much less time if everything goes well, that's for sure! And I guess the bearing prices will vary from an A series engine to a B or H series too...
Jeff