ive done a search so if your gonna talk **** you can lick my meat.

now the question is when you resurface your act light flywheel are you supposed to resurface the the outer part also where the clutch bolts on. this is my 4th lightend flywheel first act and ive had them resurfaced before. but the guy that did it for me this time also did the outside as well. i cant remember if the others i had were done that way. the reason im askin is ive got a stage 5 Comp clutch w/ upgraded PP. and it wont release it stays engaged and this is a brand new clutch no miles. any info would be great

 

i got my stock flywheel resurfaced by a pro and he did not do the bolts part

 

hmmm well i know that honda flywheels are two step so i keep tellin myself he did it right so hell i dunno maybe my slave cylinder is bad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghettochild &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive done a search so if your gonna talk **** you can lick my meat.

now the question is when you resurface your act light flywheel are you supposed to resurface the the outer part also where the clutch bolts on. this is my 4th lightend flywheel first act and ive had them resurfaced before. but the guy that did it for me this time also did the outside as well. i cant remember if the others i had were done that way. the reason im askin is ive got a stage 5 Comp clutch w/ upgraded PP. and it wont release it stays engaged and this is a brand new clutch no miles. any info would be great </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, you're not supposed to resurface that area at all. The only part that needs to be resurfaced is the area that comes into contact with the clutch disc, which is the shiny silver surface and not the darker bronze area. There is no reason to have to touch the area that the pressure plate bolts onto when you resurface a flywheel.

 

i would think that if you didnt resurface the whole thing you would lose some clutch pressure. plus it didnt come as a two step flywheel did it? so why would you want to turn it into one when it was designed to not have a step in it? unless you thought you would get better performance out of it which goes back to my original point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BILLETGRIP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would think that if you didnt resurface the whole thing you would lose some clutch pressure. plus it didnt come as a two step flywheel did it? so why would you want to turn it into one when it was designed to not have a step in it? unless you thought you would get better performance out of it which goes back to my original point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is direct from ACT:
<FONT COLOR="blue">Can the XACT Flywheels be resurfaced, and is there a special process?</FONT>

Yes, ACT XACT flywheels can be resurfaced just like a stock flywheel and there is no special process. Make sure that the proper flywheel step is done, as this will affect the clutch function if it is not correct.

Now just to clarify, when the OP asked :
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghettochild &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
are you supposed to resurface the the outer part also where the clutch bolts on. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm referring to the holes that the pressure plate bolts screw into and where the alignment pins for the pressure plate are found. You are not supposed to touch those areas when resurfacing a flywheel.

Lastly, ACT flywheels are 2-Step flywheels.

Modified by EnjoyTheRideDC2 at 4:54 PM 7/28/2007


Modified by EnjoyTheRideDC2 at 4:55 PM 7/28/2007

 

thanks for all the info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lastly, ACT flywheels are 2-Step flywheels.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

so then are all act clutches designed to only run on act flywheels? cause when i bought my last act clutch i resurfaced my flywheel without surfacing where the pressure plate mounts and my clutch wouldnt engage. i pulled it back apart and surfaced the whole thing and it worked fine. btw it was a stock flywheel which had no step to begin with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BILLETGRIP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so then are all act clutches designed to only run on act flywheels? cause when i bought my last act clutch i resurfaced my flywheel without surfacing where the pressure plate mounts and my clutch wouldnt engage. i pulled it back apart and surfaced the whole thing and it worked fine. btw it was a stock flywheel which had no step to begin with.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unless a specific company says their clutch kit does not work well with ACT flywheels, they should work fine. I've used an ACT 12lb. flywheel with an exedy stage 1 clutch kit, competition clutch stage 1, and Clutch Specialties Stage 2 kit. Not one issue what-so-ever with engagement.

The part I dont fully understand is how resurfacing the outer area would do any good? There are alignment pins that protrude from the flywheel that help line up the pressure plate and bolts. The clutch disc does not even touch that area of the flywheel. The clutch disc only comes into contact with a specific section of a flywheel, so resurfacing the whole flywheel disc and not just the contact area of the flywheel would not really do anything for clutch engagement.

 

you guys have to understand that if you dont resurface(more like milling) the outer part, then it would be like the flywheel has less clamping force than what it started out with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys have to understand that if you dont resurface(more like milling) the outer part, then it would be like the flywheel has less clamping force than what it started out with.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BILLETGRIP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would think that if you didnt resurface the whole thing you would lose some clutch pressure. plus it didnt come as a two step flywheel did it? so why would you want to turn it into one when it was designed to not have a step in it? unless you thought you would get better performance out of it which goes back to my original point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

After talking with a friend of mine who spent a lot of time with engines and mechanics, he's explained to me exactly how this all works.

My initial understanding of resurfacing flywheels is not correct. BILLETGRIP, your theory is correct on removing material on the inner and outer step. Whatever material you remove from the inner step of the flywheel, the same amount must be removed from the outer step. This is to keep the distance for the clutch disc to contact the flywheel within a specific distance.

If you resurface only the inner step, you've cleaned off the surface and given the clutch disc exactly what it needs to grab onto. At the same time, you've increased the distance the disc is away from the contact area of the flywheel. If you dont shorten the alignment dowels, as well as the mating surface or the outer step, you're not keeping the disc within reach of the flywheel.

In some cases, minimal amounts of material need to be removed to clean the surface. As long as the runout is within spec, the outer surface does not need to be touched.

I apologize for my initial misunderstanding of the concept.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My initial understanding of resurfacing flywheels is not correct. BILLETGRIP, your theory is correct on removing material on the inner and outer step. Whatever material you remove from the inner step of the flywheel, the same amount must be removed from the outer step. This is to keep the distance for the clutch disc to contact the flywheel within a specific distance.

If you resurface only the inner step, you've cleaned off the surface and given the clutch disc exactly what it needs to grab onto. At the same time, you've increased the distance the disc is away from the contact area of the flywheel. If you dont shorten the alignment dowels, as well as the mating surface or the outer step, you're not keeping the disc within reach of the flywheel.

I apologize for my initial misunderstanding of the concept. </TD></TR></TABLE>


i removed the dowels and ground it on a blanchard grinder

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BILLETGRIP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i removed the dowels and ground it on a blanchard grinder</TD></TR></TABLE>



Flywheels are usually best resurfaced on grinders and resurfacing equipment for heads/blocks. I also hear lathes are suitable to cut and clean the flywheel surface, but it isn't the most recommended.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

After talking with a friend of mine who spent a lot of time with engines and mechanics, he's explained to me exactly how this all works.

My initial understanding of resurfacing flywheels is not correct. BILLETGRIP, your theory is correct on removing material on the inner and outer step. Whatever material you remove from the inner step of the flywheel, the same amount must be removed from the outer step. This is to keep the distance for the clutch disc to contact the flywheel within a specific distance.

If you resurface only the inner step, you've cleaned off the surface and given the clutch disc exactly what it needs to grab onto. At the same time, you've increased the distance the disc is away from the contact area of the flywheel. If you dont shorten the alignment dowels, as well as the mating surface or the outer step, you're not keeping the disc within reach of the flywheel.

In some cases, minimal amounts of material need to be removed to clean the surface. As long as the runout is within spec, the outer surface does not need to be touched.

I apologize for my initial misunderstanding of the concept. </TD></TR></TABLE>

correct, i work in a machine shop and i surface flywheels everyday.

however we use a machine dedicated for flywheels, looks like a huge rotary table with a coolant hose and an arm with a grinding disc.

also if anyone charges you more for a two step they are trippin'. aamco wanted 120 bucks because it was a two step, i charge 20

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wed3k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

correct, i work in a machine shop and i surface flywheels everyday.

however we use a machine dedicated for flywheels, looks like a huge rotary table with a coolant hose and an arm with a grinding disc.

also if anyone charges you more for a two step they are trippin'. aamco wanted 120 bucks because it was a two step, i charge 20 </TD></TR></TABLE>

I forgot to mention a dedicated flywheel grinder specifically. Those I hear are the best to do two step flys. 20 bucks is an awesome price to pay for a flywheel resurface. Where are you located?&gt;