I would like to know if there is a specific resitance that is need so the ECM won't throw a CEL. I want to remove the IACV (its bad and I am also currently building some ITB's) but I don't want to have to leave the thing plugged in to prevent a CEL. I thought I read once that the IACV should measure 11.5 ohms. Is this true? If so this resistance should keep the ECU from throwing a CEL right?

Thanks for any insight.

 

I've heard it can be done this way, but I've yet to try it. In fact I may do that tomorrow.

 

The car will be obnoxios to drive w/o an IACV, why remove it? It is basically a stepper motor on the newer setups, but there is a very complex series of readings the ecu uses (on obd2) to see proper operation and avoid a p0505 code.

 

The car would only be obnoxious to drive if, say, I had AC, a large stereo system, a refrigerator, a clothes dryer, blah blah blah, all hooked up/running in my car BUT, considering my car has pretty much become a summer only vehicle, has a minimal stereo, no AC, the heater/blower only runs if the windows fog up (which hasn't happened since I put anti fog on them) I don't think it will be obnoxious at all (as I have already blocked off the IACV so I know this). Besides, many other people have removed their IACV. There are a bunch of IMs out that don't even have a spot for the IACV.

I think the most obnoxious thing here would be trying to integrate the IACV in with my ITBs I am building.....

I know many people have removed their IACV. But, I also know that most leave it plugged in so they don't get a CEL. Well... thats ghetto to me.

If my car were a daily driver, cruiser, etc I wouldn't think of removing the IACV.


Kendall, if you get a chance to try it out post here letting myself and others know if it worked.

If anyone else knows what a good IACV has for resistance let us know also. Mine is bad so I can't really test it.

TTT

 

anyone?

 

i know for a fact that on obd0 systems you can simply jumper a 10w 10ohm resister across the 2 wires and it works fine

 

Thank You.

That makes sense as I see it. I'll try that tonight and see if it works on OBDI. I would assume it would work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know for a fact that on obd0 systems you can simply jumper a 10w 10ohm resister across the 2 wires and it works fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the IACV? You're not referring to the O2 heater are you?

No, you can't simply insert a resistor to simulate this sensor. Head over to pgmfi.com and look around as they tried building an engine simulator and this was one thing stopping its completion. They tried various networks of inductors and resistors and didn't get it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the IACV? You're not referring to the O2 heater are you?

No, you can't simply insert a resistor to simulate this sensor. Head over to pgmfi.com and look around as they tried building an engine simulator and this was one thing stopping its completion. They tried various networks of inductors and resistors and didn't get it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes im absolutely sure it is the IACV/EACV. I've done it many times on my personal car. The car will start and run perfect but will have no cold high idle. I was having problems with surging & unstable idle and this fixed my problem and made the idle rock steady. Like i mentioned, i've only tried it on OBD0, so i dont know if it works with OBD1 or not

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For the IACV? You're not referring to the O2 heater are you?

No, you can't simply insert a resistor to simulate this sensor. Head over to pgmfi.com and look around as they tried building an engine simulator and this was one thing stopping its completion. They tried various networks of inductors and resistors and didn't get it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The IACV doesn't work like a sensor. To work as a sensor it would have to send varying voltages back to the ecu. Since it is just a stepper motor a resistance comparable to the motors resistance Just makes the ECU tthink the IACV is plugged in and the motor SHOULD be good.

I tried it last night and it worked on my OBDI also. Thank you 91civicDXdude for the help and all.

 

hey can you briefly discuss how you did this? im thining about doing the same thing. why do we even need that iacv anyways or the fit v for that matter? id like to get rid of both of these and set the idle with a set screw

 

I would also like to know because I have a idle surge/CEL 505 after a tranny swap
obd2
Thanks

 

GAWD this is old

and no for sure answer


Modified by 69NOSAJ at 11:54 AM 6/20/2007

 

where do you get the 10ohm resistor and how did u do it

 

I know, i know this is old but this is why we use the search feature. I would like to know if their are any links on how they did this, as the answer was never posted.....

 

crome has a option to disable this .
Hondata s300 - Also has a feature to disable IAC.

 

If your planning on running ITB's, whatever software your tuner uses to tune the engine will have the ability to disable the IACV.