Usually happens when the car is warmed up. When it is cold it runs like a champ. I can be driving fine and then all of the sudden i will get a loss of power. It will happen randomly at any time. When I step on the gas it doesn't go anywhere but slowly accelerates. All I hear is the intake sucking in air but its going no where. Feels like im driving a geo metro. Car is stock. Car is a GSR. Usually happens when I am at a light waiting for the green. So I'm guessing has something to do with the heat. Once I get it moving for a few minutes it gets back to normal. Either that or I will have to let the car cool down for a few hours and then I can get back in and it will be normal again until it gets warm where it will randomly start to have the problem again.

 

Any CEL present? Try doing a tune up. Could also be ignition module or coil going bad.

 

You should test your ignition to see if the parts Psycho mentioned are having problems. Either get a spark tester or:

First, warm the car up completely to normal operating temperature or as hot as your motor gets. Ignition components are affected by heat and problems with those parts may not show up until the engine is hot. Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire. Hold the plastic deep-well tube by the rubber boot at the tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching clean, bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts as far from the plug, motor and metal body parts as possible. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.

You follow a similar procedure when using a spark tester.

Perform this test when the car is hot. If the sparks are all fine, check the fuel system and air filter.

 

That is an ok way of testing for a weak spark, after all, if spark is weak outside of the cylinder, it will really be weak inside of a cylinder under compression. What I mean to say is it is much more difficult to make spark inside of the cylinder so you really need a spark tester to feel more confident.

It is also easier to make spark when the timing is advanced, off idle and closer to 2000 RPMs, so accellerating from a stop or accellerating from a slow drive through town is when a misfire will most likely occur.

From what delsolproblems stated, I would also recommend that you do a test at night with minimal lighting, get a spray bottle of water and put a touch of dish soap in it, lightly spray the spark plug wires and snap the throttle, see if you can see any blue haze on the wires or an actual spark jump from the wires. Then pull a plug wire up a little off of the spark plug and look down inside the spark plug well with the plug wire still down in there, make a circular motion with the top of the wire thats in your hand and see if you see any spark jumping from the side of the spark plug wire boot inside of the plug well. Any signs of leakage means get new OEM wires.

When the engine is still cool, it is automatically running rich, which is good for a weak spark or weak delivery of fuel once the engine / fuel pump warms up, but lets deal with these spark tests first. Still recommend a spark tester and a snap throttle test, fully warmed up engine too, take it for a drive until the problem shows up, then start testing.

 

I get weak starts sometimes out of no where. So im pretty sure it is something wrong with the ignition system. No CEL btw.

 

Give the key a 5 seconds on, 5 seconds off, a few times before starting to prime the fuel a little better in case you have a weak pump or a bad check valve, if it starts right away everytime after the third or fourth key cycle then you may be looking at a fuel issue.