i got a pwr radiator and my radiator fluid keeps coming out of my over flow tank... i filled it up and went to the track to run..... after the first run.. all the fluid from the over flow tank came out and is all over my car..... after the fluid comes out the hose that goes to the over flow tank is blowing hot air.
the car is a 95 civic with d16z6 motor that has a greddy turbo kit and intercooler.. also has a fal fan on the radiator... the car isn't over heating and i've replace the thermostat. i don't know if the thermostat is stuck opened or closed.. the pwr radiator i bought never came with a radiator cap so i don't know if that is the problem. just using the factory cap.

 

I am also having the exact same problem. Changed head gasket twice (i know its sealed now!), radiator, thermostat twice, radiator cap, slim pusher fan on all the time, and it still does it!!! I think I will try a new water pump but I already betting it still does it with my luck.

 

Replacing a headgasket does no good unless you pull the head off and check for warpage. Check the block too, and use a straight edge to see if the sleeves dropped. Use feeler gauges.

You will keep blowing gaskets until the head is remilled.

 

Do you get any bubbles in your coolant with the cap off? If so it may be your headgasket. Otherwise your problem may be whatever mine is. Doesnt it **** you off when everybody comes up to you and says "hey man you car is overheating" every time like I did not notice !!! Ill pay pal the first person who can correctly idenify my problem on their first try 1 dollar. This is such a stupid reason to be keeping my car from the track for almost 2 months now .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replacing a headgasket does no good unless you pull the head off and check for warpage. Check the block too, and use a straight edge to see if the sleeves dropped. Use feeler gauges.

You will keep blowing gaskets until the head is remilled. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The head was milled 2 thounsandth which the machine shop says it really did not even need. I checked the block as best I could with a metal right angle and a 4 thousanths feeler gauge(smallest i had) and it would not slide under.

 

cracked valve guide/s?
punctured heater hose?
bad radator carp?
CRACKED sleeve?(wont always show up on compresssion test. Mine was hairline cracked on bottom of sleeve and showed no loss of compression)
Coolant mixing with oil?(check under oil cap for milky residue.

thats all I can think of for now.

 

also, go buy some stuff called "Bars Leak" from kragen. Golden eagle recommends running it along with other big named engine builders.

Run it without a thermostat, for about 20 miles, then flush and install thermo again.

It basically seals radiator, headgasekt, sleeves, and a bunch of othe things.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cracked valve guide/s?
punctured heater hose?
bad radator carp?
CRACKED sleeve?(wont always show up on compresssion test. Mine was hairline cracked on bottom of sleeve and showed no loss of compression)
Coolant mixing with oil?(check under oil cap for milky residue.

thats all I can think of for now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thorougly inspected the enitre bore of all sleeves for cracks and I could not see any. No water in oil or oil in water, no smoke of any color ever. Compression is perfect and engine runs strong. My only guess besides the water pump, is maybe the raditor I got which was used (my old one leaked) may be partially clogged. I stick a garden hose in the top with the hoses unhooked water shoots out the bottom fine but the overheating seemed like it may have gotten worse after swapping the radiator out. I ran bars leak in the past but chose not too because if there is a clog or sumthin it may make it worse.

 

haha im out of ideas. good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omahaturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The head was milled 2 thounsandth which the machine shop says it really did not even need. I checked the block as best I could with a metal right angle and a 4 thousanths feeler gauge(smallest i had) and it would not slide under.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you done a leakdown test?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha im out of ideas. good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

Me too LoL. This really sucks. Does anyone know what the spec is on the deck for warpage? I know mine is probably within at least 4 thousanths if I can trust my straight edge. If I give it a healthy rev some water does splash out but I never see any bubbles and I have watched it idle with the cap off for an hour before. I figured the the splashing was either normal or maybe caused by a blockages somewhere (maybe radiator?) thats not allowing the water to flow properly. Ill pay pal two dollars now if anyone can actually figure out what it is(this could help those of you saving for upgrades!)! Im sick of buying headgaksets and parts I dont need!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Have you done a leakdown test?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish I could. Dont have compressor or any equipment to do one. I saw in another thread someones mechanic used a dye that turns red if it detects c02 in the coolant. Anyone know what its called or where to get it?

 

all you can do is go to a shop and get a leakdown. Thats the only way to really find out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all you can do is go to a shop and get a leakdown. Thats the only way to really find out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I might look into that cause im sick of throwing more and more money at it, I just dont know a good shop right off around here, im just worried about some ignorant shop blaming it on my junkyard turbo setup or making guesses that dont get me any further.

 

I have noticed that it does not blow the air/steam into the overflow with the original radiator cap but the car does overheat/run hottoer with that cap. I dont know what the hell that means or which cap I should even use, cap that over heats or cap that sprays out the overlflow? The new cap is a stant one from advance auto parts and its not identical, the rubber part that sticks down into the radiator is not as long, any opinions?

 

my pwr didn't even come with a radiator cap.... i had to use the stock one..... and it didn't fit so i had the bend the **** out of it to make it fit..

 

I seem to have fixed mine!!! It turns the problem has been fixed but the only reason I was still getting water over flowing was the replacement radiator cap!!! I never tried the stock one again after the second head gasket and thermostat. The stant #11242 that advance auto sold me is not identical to the oem one, the rubber middle section does not protrude down into the radiator as far and it seems like it probably was not building any pressure at all. Put the stock back and the car is not overheating like the last time I tried it and its not overflowing the water anymore! Thanks for everyone who replied. Bey_xiong I would try looking into a new cap and making sure its the right one for your pwr radiator.

 

is it true that if the heat is working in your car the thermostat is working and not stuck shut or stuck closed...

 

heating of the car has nothing to do with the thermostat...i dont believe.

Heater hoses are connected to the back of the block....i believe.

 

so i bought a stant raditor cap that hold 16psi or something like that.... and filled the raditor and then filled the over flow tank.... took it for a drive and it was came out all over the spot where my over flow tank was...... so.. i'm guessing its not the cap now...damm.. there gos another $10 fawk.. help

 

I'm not so sure, but it seems like your coolant isn't circulating, it's getting stuck somewhere and boiling over. Check your whole cooling system.

 

You might check try to with pwr to make sure that the stant cap is the correct one. Because the brand new stant cap on my oem radiator caused that exact same problem. The oem one works fine.

 

well, if the coolant is getting to your radiator, then that means it's getting through the thermostat (which, BTW, almost always gets stuck closed, not open)

 

the oem cap didn't fit... its cause the coolent to flow out of the over flow tank.... but the stant cap didn't fit also.. i had to bend the edges to make it fit too..but still does the same thing.. so... uhmm if i get heat.. does that mean the thermostat is open....... also.. i took out my thermostat.... it looks damm new... not crusty or anything... it moves around...... may coolent hose don't looke like its block or anything..i'll ahve to check..

 

Ask PWR what cap to use.