I have a skunk2 Intake manifold and I am going to have it port matched to a 69mm throttle body. The problem is I don't know where to get a throttle body gasket that will fit correctly, how do you guys do it?

 

take a razor to the stock gasket and make it fit

 

Hondabond is your friend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HAMOTORSPORTSUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hondabond is your friend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So your saying don't use a solid gasket, just apply the liquid gasket instead? Have you had any problems with leaks?

 

Hondabond is all I ever use for throttle body gaskets and have NEVER had a problem since. I've seen several cars come in with idle fluctuation problems, vacuum leaks, etc. because they used the wrong gasket or cut the oem one incorrectly. Try it.

 

I do have serious idle fluctuations, I ordered some Honda Bond today. So do I just apply a coat on both the IM and the TB?

 

yes, just a light coat to both will be fine. not too much because you will plug the passage to the map sensor.

 

what size engine is this going on?

 

It's a b16a2...
I am going all motor in hopes of someday touching my tachometer needle to 10,000 RPMs. I don't plan on doing it overnight, and I wanna do it right, I have a great base car, and it's a only a daily driver in the summer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2tegsown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's a b16a2...
I am going all motor in hopes of someday touching my tachometer needle to 10,000 RPMs. I don't plan on doing it overnight, and I wanna do it right, I have a great base car, and it's a only a daily driver in the summer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why time after time after time again are all u people worried bout reving to 10,000 if your not makin power up there then u arnt gaining anything go do more research before u start building

 

a 69 mm throttle body will actually make Less horsepower and torque throughout your bottom end and midrange. Read up on flow velocity. Just because it's bigger doesn't mean it matches the characteristics of your engine (at all).

A 62 or MAYBE a 64 would make more horsepower and torque then that 69 on [i]your[/] engine.

And why do you need to rev to 10k? Even if you managed to find a set of cams that made power anywheres near there (which there isn't for a street car) then you would have barely any bottom end power, stock B16's would be pulling on you from a dig, but that won't matter, because you can rev 5 digits, right?

http://www.team-integra.net/se...eID=4
http://www.team-integra.net/se...ID=19

If half-way through either of these articles you at any point think "these are ghey, how will these help me?" then just stay away from engine building.

 

G2:

I dont' know why you would want to change out the TB in the first place. If you and others with like minds, who think that bigger is always better would do a little research. By research, I mean read the book on how to gain performance from a Honda engine.

Books by Smokey Yunich (The shade mechanic), people how have tried it all, who have spent tons of money, countless hours on the dyno and tried all of the things that you are trying out of your paltry pocketbook. Quit listening to the so-called know it all's, selling performance add-ons, because they are only increasing their own commissions each week.

Let me get off my soap box and get back to the original discussion. Thru research you will find that Honda has one of the finest intake systems around. Countless hours have been spent perfecting your specific engine and chassis combination and it is not much you or I can do past that.

Oh, I know that the so called unrestricted intake/plenums loud mufflers etc, sound oh so good and have your *** and brain thinking that you are getting there so muck quicker, with sooo much more horsepower, torque and waaay much better response. In many cases it's just a physce job.

If you could just focus on lightening the weight of your vehicle, the right wheel/tire combination and all of the little tweaks that will give you free horsepower/torque/response, man you will be doing sooo much better, that you will have to leave your wallet at home to further reduce the weight of your vehicle.

Good luck and mooore money,

 

well he said hes not going to do it over night, so im sure he will have the right parts to rev that high.

Some people like having high revving motors, nothing wrong with that.

So lets stop assuming and let him do his thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well he said hes not going to do it over night, so im sure he will have the right parts to rev that high.

Some people like having high revving motors, nothing wrong with that.

So lets stop assuming and let him do his thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't matter if he has the "right" parts to rev that high, name a cam that will make power up there, that idles, and has a half decent tq cruve. He even said this is a summer DD.

 

The reason I am changing out the TB is because I want it to port match to a 3" short ram intake. The TB is actually a tapered TB from 75mm to 69mm, and it will have a 6" to 3" velocity stack at the start. I plan on having my Skunk2 IM ported to 69mm and have the runners polished. I have done some R&D myself, and I see an increase in low-mid torque using the smaller diameter intake 2.5", but a significant decrease from 5K RPMS and up. I have a b16, and my power starts in about 4000 RPMS to about 7500 RPMs with my current setup (2.75" AEM CAI), so I am looking for power at the top end. Adding the full 3" with the velocity stack and tapered TB all port matched to the IM, should increase flow and velocity @ high RPMs (5500 RPms and up). I don't know about you guys but when I am driving her hard, I don't usally ever go below 4K RPMs once I get above it. I don't understand why everyone is so worried about low end torque when you are constantly driving at higher RPMs during a race. If your RPMs are to low, then downshift. And if your saying it doesn't have enough low end torque to be a daily driver, try driving a Civic CX Hatchback with 70 HP lol

About the 10K RPMs, I was just saying I wish my car could get there just because the sound produced is incredible. I know I won't be able to run a DD that way, that's why I probably will run Buddy Club Spec 3 Cams with Omni Power Valve Train, to keep it streetable. however there is a slight chance this car will become a drag only car in the future, not sure at this point.