a

 

My gsr did the same thing! wisco pistons, with scat rods, 8.8cr

on my GSR the only place they were hitting was the skirt so i got a long screw driver and bent them out of the way

I checked them at 6000 miles and were OK im at 11,000 miles now

 

http://shopping.lightningmotor...=1299

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00b18b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://shopping.lightningmotor...=1299</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thise have a smaller orifice for increased pressure, but are they any shorter to provide clearance?

 

these are plugs...they eliminate the use of the squirters.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00b18b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">these are plugs...they eliminate the use of the squirters. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Reading owns me today. Yes, these would provide more clearance. LOL

 

On an ls engine there is a oiling hole through the stock rod and not on the vtec rods because there is an oil squirter. How then do you get the added oil to the cylinder walls? Also, are you using an ls crank? The oil squirters were designed to clear the factory crank but not if it's an ls crank with the longer stroke.

 

oil squirters main design idea is to cool the pistons not to lube the bore. If you ask me oil squitters are a watse of oil pressure and reliablity. There are many many ls/vtecs out there that dont have them and make mad power all day long and dont have any problems. If i were you i would completely delete the whole oil squirter setup. Simplifing you oiling will increase reliability. Think pressure is caused by restriction and by those squiters breaking off like that you have reduced oil pressure.

 

Had the same problem here, B18C fully built bottom end...
LS crank, Eagle 5.531" rods and Wiseco pistons...
Upon assembly, everything seemed to clear just fine. Like at least .050" between the squirters and the piston skirt...
After a few hundred miles, got a weird ticking sound...Dropped the pan and found a squirter broken off...Came to the conclusion that the skirt was pushing the squirter down and the crank counterweight would hit them back up...Eventually it just snapped off...Why they cleared during assembly ill never know.
Now I use the plug kit and havent really had a problem since...
Let me tell you how fun it was installing those blockers with the engine installed in the car

 

Its quite simple to remove them...remove oil pan, use extension with 10mm socket(i believe), rotate crank til you have a clear view of bolt, remove and install plug . Reason for the crank hitting...think about this, a crank spinning couple thousand revolutions per minute along with the piston movement. Its going to expand a small amount that you thought was okay for clearance during the install.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1B18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my engine is in the car. yes its quite tricky to get the existing ones out.
so what everyone agrees on is deleting these squirters and putting the plugs in instead. should i pull all four squirters or just plug the two that broke??
the bottom of my wiseco pistons are coated. apparently wiseco said this aids cooling the piston.
also could anyone explain why the crank hit the squirters after changing the pistons only??

The crank was not hitting when i had the stock pistons


Modified by EJ1B18c at 1:17 PM 10/2/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would do them all...I believe what happened is the new pistons skirt tapped the squirter down just enough for the crankshaft to hit it...
Check your pistons where they would hit the squirter...I know mine were touching, they left marks...

 

I wonder why I found 2 of them in the oil pan on my old bone stock b17... I put new ones in and they were still intact after 1000's of miles. Very strange.