Please help me,Emergency!
My car is currently smoking VERY badly from the exhaust.
The smoke is white and the car will almost not get any gas at idle,I have to hold the gas down for 3 seconds then the car will start jerking and then its drives OK.
Since I have gotten my swap done the car has been running SUPER RICH.On my digital autometer air fuel gauge it is all the way rich at idle and WOT and when you let off the gas it goes to about stoich.
The car ran flawlessly from January of this year until about July when the car overheated a little.
The day after it overheated in June I changed the thermostat and the coolant and the car was as good as new.(I might add that 4 days before it overheated I put on a Mugen Radiator cap).
The car ran very well up until about August when one day I noticed my air filter fell off.I noticed this because my idle was fluctuating from 1000-1400 at red lights.
I changed the air filter and cleaned the IAC valve and it idled like a champ,for 3 days than the fluctuating idle was back.
I was sure it was the IAC and when I cleaned the IAC again and the idle problem went away i was really sure.
Sometimes my check engine light comes on when I am in high gear at wot throttle on the highway.
2 Days ago my car the way it stood had the same choppy idle and was ok,I figured I would get a new IAC and it would be as good as new.I changed the oil that day and LOOKED at one spark plug,which didnt look very good,the electrode was about half the diameter of every one I ever looked at.(On other cars).
I had to go to work,I put it back in,took out the IAC and sprayed it with ALOT of intake/carb cleaner and this time it DID NOT fix the idle problem but still seemed to run just like normal.
I have hit the rev limiter about 6 times since that day you put the ecu in for me.Friday(the day of the oil change),I went to work about 60 miles round trip(I hit the limiter in the middle of this trip and the car ran another 20-30 miles with no problem.
I woke up yesterday,drove to my bros house to help him drove home evrything was fine.
Today I woke up went to his house again everything was fine still(except idle).
THEN,when I started my car to leave it kept dying and he said there was alot of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
I am not sure that a bad IAc can cause white smoke.I have no idea,I was thinking maybe its so carboned up from running all the way rich for 20,000 miles.
The smoke is white and the car will almost not get any gas at idle,I have to hold the gas down for 3 seconds then the car will start jerking and then its drives OK.
Since I have gotten my swap done the car has been running SUPER RICH.On my digital autometer air fuel gauge it is all the way rich at idle and WOT and when you let off the gas it goes to about stoich.
The car ran flawlessly from January of this year until about July when the car overheated a little.
The day after it overheated in June I changed the thermostat and the coolant and the car was as good as new.(I might add that 4 days before it overheated I put on a Mugen Radiator cap).
The car ran very well up until about August when one day I noticed my air filter fell off.I noticed this because my idle was fluctuating from 1000-1400 at red lights.
I changed the air filter and cleaned the IAC valve and it idled like a champ,for 3 days than the fluctuating idle was back.
I was sure it was the IAC and when I cleaned the IAC again and the idle problem went away i was really sure.
Sometimes my check engine light comes on when I am in high gear at wot throttle on the highway.
2 Days ago my car the way it stood had the same choppy idle and was ok,I figured I would get a new IAC and it would be as good as new.I changed the oil that day and LOOKED at one spark plug,which didnt look very good,the electrode was about half the diameter of every one I ever looked at.(On other cars).
I had to go to work,I put it back in,took out the IAC and sprayed it with ALOT of intake/carb cleaner and this time it DID NOT fix the idle problem but still seemed to run just like normal.
I have hit the rev limiter about 6 times since that day you put the ecu in for me.Friday(the day of the oil change),I went to work about 60 miles round trip(I hit the limiter in the middle of this trip and the car ran another 20-30 miles with no problem.
I woke up yesterday,drove to my bros house to help him drove home evrything was fine.
Today I woke up went to his house again everything was fine still(except idle).
THEN,when I started my car to leave it kept dying and he said there was alot of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
I am not sure that a bad IAc can cause white smoke.I have no idea,I was thinking maybe its so carboned up from running all the way rich for 20,000 miles.
I have one but I am afraid to install it.I have to cut the old FPR,It is a B&M Command Flo.
Is it possible that it just gradually got worse and is just my Iac valve going bad?.I was thinking Carbon is fouling everything up.
Doesnt Rich mean TOO MUCH fuel?
Weird,I have the stock VX fuel pump(I think) and a fuel filter that has been there for so long(Which I am also afraid to change).
Is it possible that it just gradually got worse and is just my Iac valve going bad?.I was thinking Carbon is fouling everything up.
Doesnt Rich mean TOO MUCH fuel?
Weird,I have the stock VX fuel pump(I think) and a fuel filter that has been there for so long(Which I am also afraid to change).
Same FPR I use. Works perfectly and the install is really easy, but yeah you do have to chop the stocker. If you have that and a gauge, then you're all set to try that. Yes rich is too much fuel for the amount of air. I assume you're running rich because of your ECU not being optimized for your setup. Can you confirm this? What ECU engine combo are we dealing with? If it is your ECU fuel map then naturally correcting this would be the ideal fix. Lowering fuel pressure would only be a band-aid, but it would help methinks. I assume your plugs are getting fouled & blackened?
is your ECU pulling any codes??
and are you postive your map sensor is working fine as well.
your ecu might be throwing you in limp mode with several other things.
just a hench, but please give more info on any codes, etc.
and are you postive your map sensor is working fine as well.
your ecu might be throwing you in limp mode with several other things.
just a hench, but please give more info on any codes, etc.
Ok,The car has Type R cams,an intake and and exhaust.The Ecu I got from a friend but I got it after the problems started.
It runs exactly as rich as before.
The old ecu was a Mugen chipped Ecu P28 that was used for the sohc and I upgraded to 9500 rev limit,6000 VTEC,Thats all I know about it
.
My motor is a 2000 SI B16 with 26,000 mile,I have paper work.
My motor isnt even giving me a check engine light currently,I get one only when I drive aggressivly in 4th or 5th and near WOT.
I always think the worst but is it POSSIBLE that it isnt the head gasket?
And consider that my car was smoking white ALOT,Does that mean that its something major?
I brought the car to Honda and they said they wont touch it.
I have the money to fix,just cant find a place.
Im lost here I love my car,but it seems like everything that makes me sad is due to this car.
I just want it to run right because I know 2000 Si,s are very reliable.
I appreiciate all your help,Thanks
Dan
It runs exactly as rich as before.
The old ecu was a Mugen chipped Ecu P28 that was used for the sohc and I upgraded to 9500 rev limit,6000 VTEC,Thats all I know about it
.My motor is a 2000 SI B16 with 26,000 mile,I have paper work.
My motor isnt even giving me a check engine light currently,I get one only when I drive aggressivly in 4th or 5th and near WOT.
I always think the worst but is it POSSIBLE that it isnt the head gasket?
And consider that my car was smoking white ALOT,Does that mean that its something major?
I brought the car to Honda and they said they wont touch it.
I have the money to fix,just cant find a place.
Im lost here I love my car,but it seems like everything that makes me sad is due to this car.
I just want it to run right because I know 2000 Si,s are very reliable.
I appreiciate all your help,Thanks
Dan
Trending Topics
compression or leakdown test is your next step
replace the spark plugs also.
the ecu MAY have stored the code too, try to pull it by jumping the service connector.
[Modified by KAMiN, 4:32 PM 9/22/2002]
replace the spark plugs also.
the ecu MAY have stored the code too, try to pull it by jumping the service connector.
[Modified by KAMiN, 4:32 PM 9/22/2002]
Kamin,How do I do that?I reset the ecu on Friday and I am not sure I got a check engine light since then,but if it is stored then myabe I can get the code,How?
compression or leakdown test is your next step
replace the spark plugs also.
the ecu MAY have stored the code too, try to pull it by jumping the service connector.
replace the spark plugs also.
the ecu MAY have stored the code too, try to pull it by jumping the service connector.
My car does have an O2 sensor.This went bad on my girls Neon and I changed it and it seemed to fix all problems.How can I test that and how can I jump the service connector?
Dan
Dan
your new Helms manual will tell you!!!
if you love your car, then this will teach you all about it...
www.helminc.com
t..
if you love your car, then this will teach you all about it...
www.helminc.com
t..
Honda wouldn't touch it? That's really bad business. Even if they don't agree officially with modifications.
He's right you really should get a helms, but to check the O2 sensor you put an ohmeter across the sensor's heater circuit(2 black wires). A dead sensor will have 0 resistance or infinite resistance. A proper value for these is around 14 ohms. Do as they suggested though try to get a code from your ECU by jumping the SCS connector with a clip. Let the ECU do the detective work if at all possible. Don't automatically think the worst, it could be nearly anything. Is your car mixing anything? Coolant in the oil...oil in the coolant? If you get it idling OK and it's still cold, take off the radiator cap and look for air bubbles coming up.
He's right you really should get a helms, but to check the O2 sensor you put an ohmeter across the sensor's heater circuit(2 black wires). A dead sensor will have 0 resistance or infinite resistance. A proper value for these is around 14 ohms. Do as they suggested though try to get a code from your ECU by jumping the SCS connector with a clip. Let the ECU do the detective work if at all possible. Don't automatically think the worst, it could be nearly anything. Is your car mixing anything? Coolant in the oil...oil in the coolant? If you get it idling OK and it's still cold, take off the radiator cap and look for air bubbles coming up.
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