I have a fresh build. It 6k on it as of now. Engine runs great. No day to day problems at all. The one problem I do have is that it is losing or burning oil. I've checked the obvious signs for losing oil and there are no indications that there is any oil leak other while sitting or on the highway. I've done some research and I've discovered that the two potential oil burn issues would be either in the valve stem seals or piston rings. Based on what I've read and what I understand of the B series engine it seems as if it would be closer to a piston ring issue. The block was honed before the engine was built and new piston rings were installed. The engine had 5W30 full synthetic oil put in it from the outset. During the winter it really wasn't losing very much oil. But now as the weather has warmed up I am losing significant amounts of oil even though my oil color is still good.

My question is what should I do in order to develop a better seal around the piston rings?

 

You should always use a conventional oil or others specific to first start up for breaking in motors .... Everything needs to actually kinda wear itself down some and "seat". Using a full synthetic does not allow that to fully happen.

Once Motor is broken in (a few heat cycles generally) You can then drain the conventional and add in your full synthetic.

 

So do you think that if I drop the oil now and put in a non-synthetic thicker oil after having 6 K on the motor that it will still give the piston rings an opportunity to seat?

 

Have you checked the compression of the motor yet?

 

No I have not. Honestly I'm hoping for any easy solution. I realize that there's the potential of it not being easy solution. But I'm currently getting great pick up on the throttle and 34 miles to the gallon so it just doesn't feel as if I have any issues with compression.

 

Well checking compression is easy and wont take but about 20 min .

 

Okay. Is there a way for me to check compression from home or do I need to take it to a shop and have a compression test done?

 

You can either buy a compression tester from an auto parts store for like 40$ Not sure if they loan them , you can check tho..

To check the comp you will need to let the motor run and get up to full operating temps. After that turn off car, unplug the distributor and injectors you dont want fuel spraying while testing. Take off the spark plug wires.

Doing one cylinder at a time take out the spark plug and screw in the comp gauge (make sure gauge is zero out before each use) You will then need to turn the motor over (make sure you have the throttle all the way open during the entire test) Crank car until the needle on the comp gauge stops moving. After finished put plug back in and proceed to perform the same test on the next cylinder.

After all 4 are tested re install all the plugs wires and injector wires along with the distributor plug.

Make sure you dont take too long on getting all 4 readings , as the motor cools the results will vary.

 

Okay. Thanks very much. I will run the test Monday or Tuesday and respond.

 

Orielly rents (free rental) the tool with deposit required

if it turns out to be the rings the only fix is new rings and re hone. You need to seat them with conventional oil (preferably one with zinc) within the first hour of the first startup.

when you do compression test test all cylinders wright it down, then and a small amount of oil to the cylinder (like a cap from a quart of oil) test again if numbers jump up rings are bad

 

It sounds as if your oil rings at least never seated. Using synthetic during break in is not recommended and i would be curious what your process for break in actually was. I have always been taught the break in really determines how the engine runs...break it in nice and gentle like a little old lady it will perform like one. I typically do a warm up to check for leaks, then do 20 miles worth of 3/4 throttle 3/4 max rpm pulls in 3l2nd and 3rd gear costing down in gear too force ring set. Then at 20 miles change oil to fresh non synthetic and drive normal for 800 miles keeping the 3/4 rules and at 1k miles change to synth and go to town..

 

And so my question was if the engine had been run full synthetic from the outset is there a possibility that I can drain that oil and run thicker non synthetic oil and seat the piston rings at this point or is it too late

 

Its too late you only have 1 hour at the most to properly seat the rings after that its too late

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

Thanks guys. I hope it's not a piston ring issue. Thanks for all the info.

 

I tried the simplest solution first. My car was a quart low again so I put a quart of Lucas in. Been driving for 4 days now and not any burn or consumption of any kind. That's after over 300 miles. Before the Lucas I was losing a half a quart in that time or more. Seriously. Also no more smoke during acceleration.

Now I realize that I'm possibly masking a problem but apparently it's masking it pretty damn well. Lol. Anyone have any better idea of what the original problem was or still is from the above discussion??

 

Did you ever do a Compression or Leak down test?

 

No sir. I simply didn't have the money or time yet. I was going to have to add oil regardless and the Lucas seemed to do the job. I thought maybe the Lucas stopping the consumption may have been an immediate indication of something.

 

it's an indication that you're masking the problem. and as you said, piston rings and/or valve seals are the issue.

a compression test will help indicate how well the top and 2nd rings are sealing.
there are no tests that can be done for the oil control rings or the valve seals. only way to know oil control rings are good is to replace them and break the motor in properly. and only way to know the valve seals are good is to make sure valve stem to guide clearance is within spec, and install new quality valve seals.

 

There is nothing wrong with using synthetic oil from the outset. I use it in about %50 of the engines I do including my integra I drive now. Many don't want to because they insist on dumping it out after a short run time, which is not necessary. The others are still hanging onto an age old myth that is false and should be put to rest.

Good luck with troubleshooting and finding the issue.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll get a compression test done as soon as I can for sure.

 

yes there is. synthetic oil is TOO good of a lubricant, and does not allow all the moving parts to seat properly, as already previously stated. mainly referring to the rings, but including every moving part.

 

Yup conventional oil or even better, break in oil would be optimal when breaking in a new motor.

 

Damn. Thanks for the clearing that up. I guess my low leakdown, tight running engines have had the wrong oil! Why have good quality oil in the engine right from the get go! You should contact the major auto companies that use synthetic as factory fill and inform them of their wrong doing as well.

 

maybe you should research how manufacturers build, install, and break in their engines. guess what, they use break-in oil! they break their motors in before ever even installing them in the chassis. when you buy a car with zero miles on the odometer, the engine already has 500-3000 miles on it. can you guess why? the manufacturers break the engines in with break-in oil before ever installing it in the chassis!
try again buddy.

 

I'm already well aware of how manufacturers build, install and break in the engines. Thanks to my line of work I have been to the factory's to oversee this. Sorry to hear you are so misinformed.