p2h clearance help
Hi h-t I'm in a bit of delimma here, i search numerious thread and look at numerious picture but couldn't find my answer and sorry if this been ask pls link me in the right direction, ok when it come to regular tool and and torque it to spec I pretty much know what I'm doing, but when it come down to measurement measuring with caliper, bore, or stretch guage in the thousands of an inch I suck not that I don't know but I was never shown how to, so here my problem I have a usdm b18c gsr block that been sitting around for a good long while and went through a decent ammount of minnesota winter sitting in the garage, over time a decent ammount of corrosion have been building on it, so following along with my build I took it to the machine shop to have it prep and clean out for my build, the guy there said a small portion on top of the block will need to be weld to fill it of what been eatin off in then grind down and deck it to make it flat but it look like he going to have to take 20 thousands off the top of the block to get it right and taking that much off might cause me to have p2h clearence issue but wont know that forsure untill he know which piston setup I'm using, here my block setup I plan on
Stock gsr block bore 81.5 concrete fill
89mm ls/b20 crank
Endyne 13.0.1 rollerwave piston
Crower lightweight rod
Stock gsr head for now with all supertech v, vs, r
00 usdm type r cam
Arp head stud
Can I get away with an oem size head gasket or will I need a ticker one. As my research go so far I found that there were marking on top of the block and that if that marking is left untouch after a bit on top is taken off it would still be in oem spec. Is this correct?
Stock gsr block bore 81.5 concrete fill
89mm ls/b20 crank
Endyne 13.0.1 rollerwave piston
Crower lightweight rod
Stock gsr head for now with all supertech v, vs, r
00 usdm type r cam
Arp head stud
Can I get away with an oem size head gasket or will I need a ticker one. As my research go so far I found that there were marking on top of the block and that if that marking is left untouch after a bit on top is taken off it would still be in oem spec. Is this correct?
thanks for the reply! unfortunately now the machine shop said after the block got clean the block look to be in worst shape and from what there guessing it look like at least .030 to .035 is going to have to come off the top of the block and they do have shim they can put on to make up for what been taken off but never heard of anyone using and running shim before. on the other hand they say i can use a thicker head gasket and i know cosmetic make thick head gasket up to .050 but not knowing or having any experience with them other then oem lead me not to go that route yet. has anyone here have a similar situation and have to run a thicker gasket to compensate for what been taken off the top of the block? if so how is the gasket holding up? i been trying to locate a bare block near me but been having no luck yet, i want to get this block clean and fill before the end of October other wise it will be to cold here and it will be impossible for the block filler to cure inside a garage.
ok got block back, but the thing is 50 thousand was taken off the top of the block to be flat, so i guess I'll just have to order a .050 thick head gasket from cometic and see how it goes crossing finger and hoping for the best, block is already fill with concrete and waiting for it to cure.
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