I got this p28 off ebay. The guy said it would run my car. I have a jdm h22a in an 5th gen accord. I bought it for 100 bux seems cheap huh. Well i am throwing a cel 20 with this ecu. Do you think this should work normally? I actually did not know it was a p28 until i just opened it. Do you think the computer can be bad with the cel 20. The car idles rough, no vtec, but other than that it runs good.

 

20
Electrical Load Detector circuit
Open or short in ELD circuit, defective ELD circuit


surprised that it even started the car. if the ecu is unchipped, that is the normal price for a p28. it was originally meant for a 92-95 civic ex/si. the fuel curve, vtec etc should cause some problems with your swap. may want to check in the prelude or accord forums to be safe.

 

I see the chip in it. It is socketed with what looks like a mugen chip.

 

It's not a P28... It's a non-vtec ECU that was converted to VTEC... You can see the 249 on the processor which if I remember correctly is a P05... That would explain why it was so cheap...

BTW: The "Mugen" program is not good for H22a whatsoever...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HardLowrdRanger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not a P28... It's a non-vtec ECU that was converted to VTEC... You can see the 249 on the processor which if I remember correctly is a P05...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 249 is not only found in the P05, P06's have them too but yes that's most likely not an original P28. It doesn't really matter tho as any 11F0-1500 or 1720-1500 board can be converted to DOHC VTEC. Most commonly P28's will have a 251 or 304 main microprocessor which is an easy way to identify them. Your ECU was also most likely an auto which too is not a big deal as the RP jumper selection can be changed (I can't really see them in the pic). As for the proggy, I don't work with H22's all that much so I have no idea what works well with them and what doesn't. Oh B series motors I only like the 5700 SK2 program, everything else that I've dealt with Mugen, Spoon 1/2, Jun, PYR all suck in my book. Just my $0.02

 

T the top of the board it is this #02D01720-1500


Ok so my buddy comes here like 20min ago. I wanted the the check the codes again to see anything new. Last was cel 20 right. So it is nighttime out and i jumper the connector. Turns out the son of a bitch has been throwing a code 22, at night you can barely see 2little faint short blinks. During the day no chance of anyone picking that up. All it was the thermostat plug and the oil pressure switch were mixed up. No codes.

 

Good deal, glad you got it figured out. How did the VTM and FANC plugs get switched? The FANC's wiring is only like 3 inches long at max as it only has to reach the thermostat housing. Just curious

 

Well it is an accord with the jdm H22a. Either way they were a little stretched. I just remembered the colors of the oil pressure switch wires. Sure enough they were reversed.

 

20 is ELD, looks like the guy who wrote the chip didnt know wtf he was doing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">20 is ELD, looks like the guy who wrote the chip didnt know wtf he was doing</TD></TR></TABLE>
READ above, he just said it wasn't actually a 20, it was a 22, somehow the FANC and VTM connectors got swapped...

 

oh ok oops

 

Ok guys, this chip in there is screwing me up. Seems like it is a mugen. This is running an H22a in a 5th gen accord. It has a rough idle and can barely idle, it loads up on fuel till about 4k. My spark plugs are getting fouled. Although it does run very hard once i get on it. Is there someone who can get this back to h22 spec or recommend a chip for this? This idle thing is driving me crazy.