just put my motor back in my car after doing pistons rods and all that jazz over the winter

car is overheating on the highway but not around town temp needle comes down when i gas it but gets hotter when i let off?

any idea?

 

got to be one of two things. head gasket or water pump because its not circulating like it should. best guess water pump

 

its not smoking so i doubt its the headgasket

water pump was new last year
so im not sure how it would go bad? yet still keep the car cool around town?

this only happens after cruising on the highway itll slowly start to creep up in temp to about 220-230 degrees

 

Sounds like the thernostat is stuck slightly open.

 

tstat was replaced this year as welll

any way to test the thermostats?

 

also after driving the car smells like coolant from under the hood

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by illestrolla247 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tstat was replaced this year as welll

any way to test the thermostats?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Put it in a pot of boiling water, if it opens up it is good.

Try a cooling system flush.. Are you losing water anywhere?

 

dont think im loosing water

the t stat is deffinatly opening the lower hose gets hot

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by illestrolla247 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tstat was replaced this year as welll

any way to test the thermostats?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Let the car idle for a while. If the fan comes on your thermostat is fine. Are you smelling or seeing any antifreeze under the hood? Try filling the radiator back up.

After my swap was done my car was overheating but we could see some antifreeze on the intake. Couldnt figure out which hose it was cause we never actually seen it leak. We tightend up the the hose clamp underneath the TB and thats where the antifreeze was coming out of.

 

test ur radiator cap. and u can buy a tester kit to test ur cooling system from a parts store. especially if its leaking. im saying tis leaking because u can smell the coolant

 

just replaced my cap to check so well see when i get outta work


pressure tested the system at work as well and no leaks

but we did find the hose from the Tstat housing to the head has a SEVERE kink in it


any way that could cause my problems?

 

yes!!!!!!!!!!! hopefully thast all it was, it acts as a restriction .

 

im going to try and track down one of those hoses its the one that makes a complete 180 from the tstats housing to the head

ill find on and replace that and keep you updated

 

cap is not the problem i narrowed that down

anyone ever have this type of problem where the needle goes up on decel and cools down when accel?

 

that kink may be it, but when you do get the hose replaced, make sure to bleed your cooling system(as a precaution) to get any air bubbles out. I had a customer whose car was doing the same thing after all the testing we did, we bled the cooling system for a half hour. his car never overheated since.

 

yea when i replace that hose im going to bleed it real good

im not sure how to bleed it because the bleeder on my water neck has been tapped for my water temp gauge and does not come loose


i guess i could just jack the front end up and let it run without the cap for a while

 

Radiator itself. How long did the radiator sit while doing the pistons ect? Was it drained of coolant?

I did a full rebuild on my dads van and had a similair problem that it would overheat on the highway. I did everything possible before finally trying a radiator, turns out it was 45% blocked caused by sitting out dry inside before refilling it. All that junk inside just solidifies.

Dan

 

it was drained of coolant and it sat for maybe 3-4 months

im begining to think it is my ign timing that is making me over heat


when i first put it together i kinda guessed on the timing and the car seemed to over heat

i then set the timing and diddnt notice any overheating

ive since had to take the dizzy off and ever since its been overheating

i completly looked past this but now that i think of it timing overheats D blocks like no other

im gonna set it back to stock and see what we can do

 

Timing will do it too, however it has to be pretty advanced to do so. I had my turbo GSR advanced instead of retarded and it just ran a little warm...check that out tho.

My money still goes on the radiator that sat for that long...my dads only sat for 4 weeks.

Dan

 

yea cause the only thing that ive changed is the timing

it overheta when i put it toghther

set the timing and it diddnt

now i messed with it again and it does so hopefully thats whats wrong with it

 

set the timing still overheats

im going to have to fix that hose and see whats up

any way my hg could be bad but not get any smoke?


also my fans on all time and its a slim line that pushes well more then enough air (wired to stay on)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by illestrolla247 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">set the timing still overheats

im going to have to fix that hose and see whats up

any way my hg could be bad but not get any smoke?


also my fans on all time and its a slim line that pushes well more then enough air (wired to stay on)</TD></TR></TABLE>

HG could def be shot and no smoke. You can simply be pulling in air into the cooling system not allowing the thermostat to open. Air cannot open a t-stat, only liquid. Get a pressure tester and one of those radiator testers that checks for exhaust fumes in the cooling system. But i would start with getting the radiator flow tested.

Dan

 

If the thermostat is good, then the problem is most likely a clogged radiator. Keep in mind that a radiator can be clogged either inside, outside, or both. So check both of these things. If there are alot of deposits inside the radiator, then it is likely clogged and should probably be replaced. But also check the fins to see if they are either clogged with debris or if a large number are bent. If this is the case, try cleaning and/or straightening them so that more air can flow through the radiator.

There are a couple of other things to consider. If the car is an Integra or pre-1992 Civic and you have A/C, the A/C condensor fins could also be clogged with debris and/or bent fins. This will cut off airflow. Once again, try cleaning and/or straightening the fins. Doing so will also improve A/C performance. Speaking of pre-1992 Civics, if you have one, check the front bumper cowl area. For some retarded reason, these bumpers come from the factory with plastic plates that partially block off the holes on the bottom of the cowl. These are supposed to be removed if you have A/C. But even if you don't, the reduced airflow can be enough to cause overheating on VERY hot days. So get rid of these if they are there.

 

yea its a 91 hatch with a half rad from a newer civic in it

it has been quite hot around here latly so im gonna put a diff rad in and check that to see what happens the rad was close to new last year and it never overheated on me

 

My overheating problem came back lastnight. We couldnt get the fans to come on. We tested the fan and it works fine. I read that low coolant level could cause the fan to not come on.

So today I added more water. Let it idle for a while and the fan came back on and overheating went away. When it gets cooler outside, im going to drain the coolant in it now and replace with 50/50. It is mostly water in it now. Which im thinking is evaporating causing the coolant to go low. If it starts to go low again after the 50/50 I will be forced to do the compression test to see if it a headgasket.

Is your coolant low? Also been reading that a headgasket starting to go bad might not show the white smoke or other symptoms until it gets worse....