hello-

my oil pump has around 1000 miles on it. It has been sitting out of the motor for almost a year now, and the cafr hasnt been running a year prior to that.

Upon inspecting it, it seems as if it is a bit difficult to turn. How easily should the pump spin? Should I take it apart and clean it? How much torque and how do I torue the phillips head bolts down to?

Thanks!

 

I don't know about torque specs, but I just checked a spare pump I have in my garage. It spins pretty easily with my index finger. If it doesn't spin easily/smoothly, I wouldn't use it.

It's hard to find an analogy that describes the appropriate resistance. It kind of feels like hand-threading a head stud into a block - you feel the resistance of the lubricant, but that's it.

 

hmmm yeh its a bit more tough to turn than you described. It could be because its been sitting for two years untouched

 

its an oil pump, so pour some oil through it and see if it turns any easier before you go buy another one.

 

ok, will do!

would you recommend taking the pump apart and inspecting it? I took apart a junked one once but I never installed one I took apart - how do I make sure the phillips screws have enough torque on them?

 

Those screws were such a pain in the *** to take off, and if i remember correctly my helms manual didnt even say the torque specs. Probably cause the oil pumps come already put together from honda. I wouldnt bother taking the little cover off

 

yeh I failed to mention something else. I know the answer but I figure I will ask anyways....

In my oil pickup there were lots of pieces of my rod bearing. I'm getting a new pickup, do you think any pieces made it into the pump?

 

i dont see why there would be anything wrong with it; pumps dont really go bad because of use.
take it apart, measure clearances and put back together.

torque spec for the 6x1mm screws is 4 lbft.

your going to need more specs than that though. helms will help you on that. if not pm me and ill send you the #'s


Edit: Missed your above post and As bigM pointed out, pumps dont usually go bad with normal use. seeing you have metal on the pickup things could be very different..




Modified by mmuller at 4:20 PM 1/2/2006

 

awesome advice. If the tq specs are so low, why are they sooo hard to get off?

would I be better off using allen head bolts when I reinstall?

 

i dont think allen would work since the stock ones are countersink. use a impact screwdriver to get them off, they are in there pretty tight. i use blue locktite for reassembly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeh I failed to mention something else. ...In my oil pickup there were lots of pieces of my rod bearing. I'm getting a new pickup, do you think any pieces made it into the pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a very key bit of information! If this is for the spare pump in the garage, YES it likely sucked small particles thru the screen. When carnage happens, it is hard to control the metal bits to only be larger than your screen size. Appropriate care should be taken with this pump, as it may have been damaged by the material ingested. Particularly if it is difficult to turn now. That implies that there is still some junk in the pump, junk in the pump... implies junk went thru the pump...

I think you know the "safe" answer. Careful disassembly and inspection, or a new pump.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think allen would work since the stock ones are countersink. use a impact screwdriver to get them off, they are in there pretty tight. i use blue locktite for reassembly</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the advice. I got the cover off, and am about to measure the clearnaces stated in my Helms. Couldnt I just use allen head bolts, with a countersunk head?

How are they only 4 ft-lbs if it took so much effort to get them out?

<FONT SIZE="3"><FONT COLOR="blue">Clearances: I measured a .005 " clearance between the inner and outer rotor, and also the outer rotor and the housing. These are within the standard limits.</FONT></FONT>



Should I clean that up with a dremel while I have it opened?



Modified by B18EG6 at 7:05 PM 1/2/2006

 

Honda oil pumps should turn fairly tight, inside there is two gears spining which is what builds the pressure.

This topic is right on time, I actually took my s2000 oil pump apart to make sure all of the metal was out of it as well, as to the same as you, there was allot of metal in the screen.

Even the s2000 pump turns fairly hard and it has 65k on it, The internals Look absolutely BRAND new, and I will be reusing the pump because i feel confident with it.

When I built my gsr, With 198k the pump was tight, With that build I did opt to get a new one and it was tight right out of the Honda box.

Hope this reassures you that your ok to reuse it, Just pop open the cover with a impact screwdriver and double check and clean it out.

 

So just forget about allen head? What if I could find them in the right size? How is everyong tightening the bolts back down after they remove them?

Also - does the plate I just removed (with the 6 x 1.0mm bolts) sit flush against the side of the motor? I know the whole oil pump sits flush, but I am referring to the inside plate within the pump. I just threw it on the motor but its a bit tough to tell from underneath.


edit - <FONT COLOR="blue">Okay well I found allen head bolts, they are .018" longer than the stock bolts.

stick with stock? or go with allen? Do I use the impact screwdriver to tighten it down?</FONT>


Modified by B18EG6 at 8:05 PM 1/3/2006

 

Does it matter which side faces out, for the outer rotor? I had it layed out the same way I took it out but someone went in the garage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How are they only 4 ft-lbs if it took so much effort to get them out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Locktite