PROBLEM SOLVED: This problem went away after switching to a different set of tires. Either the tires were to blame, or they weren't balanced correctly at the alignment shop. I feel it was likely the tires.





2007 Civic EX auto, 82k mi

Cliffs:

❶ Vibration felt through steering wheel between 45-65 mph when cold (when it has sat overnight)

❷ Vibration almost non-existent when driven for a while, OR in hot weather

❸ Car itself doesn't really shake (don't really feel it in "the seat")

❹ No vibration, thump or up and down feeling at low speeds. Nothing.



What I have checked and had done:

❶ Had all 4 corners aligned (barely off), wheels balanced (has OE alloys). Had them check for a bent wheel, said they didn't find any bent wheels (I did not have them take the tires off and check for straightness, however). Vibration didn't go away. I feel this shop is trustworthy.

❷ Checked ball joints, tie rods, bushings and bearings front and rear, all as tight as a new car.

❸ Rotated the front wheels to the rear, and rears to the front. No change. (this really surprised me).

❹ Inner CVs do have some play, but nothing abnormal, they should have some play. Outer CVs have no play as far as I can tell.


I am really baffled why the vibration is so bad when the car has sat overnight. When the temp outside is cold it's even worse. After driving 15-20 min it's barely noticeable, and on hot days I usually can't even feel it after it's been driven for a while. At 70+ mph smooth as silk. I thought for sure I would be able to move the offending wheel(s) to the rear when I rotated them, but this improved nothing. Makes me wonder if a brake rotor is somehow off center or something weird.

I think it must be a bent rim or out of round tire(s), but off balance can't be ruled out I suppose. I just would like to hear some thoughts before I spend more money chasing this problem around.

Thanks for reading.

BryanM

 

maybe torque converter clutch? that's the only other thing that I can think of that would cause vibration between those speeds.

do a 60k service on the transmission, which is a drain and fill and filter. don't drain the torque converter. you should only have to replace a quart and a half, maybe two quarts of tranny fluid. also check the function of the solenoids.

my best effort sight unseen.

hope that helps some,
-chris

 

I've done a trans drain and fill 3x since I've owned it (since April) and replaced the filter. I have not checked solenoid functions.

Thank you

 

wow. that's a lot.

I would have only done that on the recommended schedule. if you don't leave some of the original/used fluid in there you loose some of the friction qualities and your tranny will slip. reason being the fluid acts as a suspension for the friction material that wears away from the clutches... this suspended material helps with positive engagement of your clutches which are essentially bathed in viscous fluid.

did it start actin up after the drain and fill? or the second or third time?

my professor hammered us about this in trans class. he owns and operates a shop with a sterling reputation so I trust everything he ever said about automatic transmissions.

hope this helps further...
-chris

 

I would start investigating BUSHINGS. Rubber changes by temp.

 

It did not occur after the fluid changes. I noticed it a couple days after I bought it thinking "no big deal, just out of balance". It still could be I guess.

I thought a fluid flush (3x drain and fill) was recommended by Honda every 30k for the R18?

EDIT: Just checked, it's every 60k.

 

It could be, but everything I've pushed and pried on seems tight.

 

you dont weigh 2500 pounds either.

 

haha true. Wondering if it's a bad mount. These things are known for mounts going to ****.

 

even if the bearings are tight they can still be bad. but it sounds more like a motor mount issue. otherwise make sure the bolts on your calipers aren't loose, and check your spark plugs just in case. ignition problems can be temperature dependent as well.