Not your typical car won't start thread....
Background:
b16a2 w/chipped p28 - s300 w/obdII-obdI harness.
boosted w/rc1000's and resistor box.
Built by me, tuned by SlowMotion, OH.
Rest of info in sig if you are so inclined.
On w/the story....I was out driving on a Sunday evening as usual a few weeks ago just cruising along and the car suddenly bucked/hesitated...and then had no power...check engine light. If I gace it throttle it would just stall it out. I turned it off and then fired it back up..good as new. Chalked it up to some random Hondata bug...(which has never happened before, btw).
Happened again that same night evening while I was in boost mind you, and I immediatly took it home. Same ordeal, stuttered bad, check engine light and after complete restart fine. Parked it and drove my beater to work/school the next day.
2 days later I had some time to look it over. Tried to fire it up, and it would run, but VERY BADLY. Barely keep it running. Wideband was reading RICH. I checked over everything, reloaded my maps incase something changed. They were fine. Tried to datalog it, but it wouldn't work. Which I found odd.
Pulled the ecu and noticed 3-4 of the pins on the ecu where the hanress plugs in were slightly melted. So I figured that coupled w/the fact I can't datalog means the ecu was shot. So I bought another p28 chipped it, reloaded the maps and tried it and checked my harness, ecu side. Everything looked good. Plugged the ecu back in and now it just turns over, won't fire.
My buddy just bought a hatch, and I plugged my ecu into his car and it fired over...ran horrible, but it turned over.
So I checked the plugs. and they were fouled w/fuel. So I checked spark. Cylinders 1&3 were weak, while 2&4 are strong. I changed plugs and same result. Instantly foul out w/fuel. I had read on here that the coil and the ignitor can fail so I ordered another distributor. Got it today and replaced it, same thing.
Where do I go from here?
Thanks in advance.
b16a2 w/chipped p28 - s300 w/obdII-obdI harness.
boosted w/rc1000's and resistor box.
Built by me, tuned by SlowMotion, OH.
Rest of info in sig if you are so inclined.
On w/the story....I was out driving on a Sunday evening as usual a few weeks ago just cruising along and the car suddenly bucked/hesitated...and then had no power...check engine light. If I gace it throttle it would just stall it out. I turned it off and then fired it back up..good as new. Chalked it up to some random Hondata bug...(which has never happened before, btw).
Happened again that same night evening while I was in boost mind you, and I immediatly took it home. Same ordeal, stuttered bad, check engine light and after complete restart fine. Parked it and drove my beater to work/school the next day.
2 days later I had some time to look it over. Tried to fire it up, and it would run, but VERY BADLY. Barely keep it running. Wideband was reading RICH. I checked over everything, reloaded my maps incase something changed. They were fine. Tried to datalog it, but it wouldn't work. Which I found odd.
Pulled the ecu and noticed 3-4 of the pins on the ecu where the hanress plugs in were slightly melted. So I figured that coupled w/the fact I can't datalog means the ecu was shot. So I bought another p28 chipped it, reloaded the maps and tried it and checked my harness, ecu side. Everything looked good. Plugged the ecu back in and now it just turns over, won't fire.
My buddy just bought a hatch, and I plugged my ecu into his car and it fired over...ran horrible, but it turned over.
So I checked the plugs. and they were fouled w/fuel. So I checked spark. Cylinders 1&3 were weak, while 2&4 are strong. I changed plugs and same result. Instantly foul out w/fuel. I had read on here that the coil and the ignitor can fail so I ordered another distributor. Got it today and replaced it, same thing.
Where do I go from here?
Thanks in advance.
You might want to check what those pins are for. If they melted on the ecu side it might be melted somewhere else. Check the pinouts and follow them to where they go.
Are you still getting a weak spark with the new dizzy?
Are you still getting a weak spark with the new dizzy?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thesmogman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might want to check what those pins are for. If they melted on the ecu side it might be melted somewhere else. Check the pinouts and follow them to where they go.
Are you still getting a weak spark with the new dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok.
Well I found the pinouts and referenced them to this http://www.superhonda.com/foru...55225
Looks to me it melted on Plug A & D.
A19 = White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A21 = ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22 = Igniter, same as A21
D9 = ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D11 = TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
Haven't checked for weak signal w/the new dizzy yet. I'll do that tomorrow.
Are you still getting a weak spark with the new dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok.
Well I found the pinouts and referenced them to this http://www.superhonda.com/foru...55225
Looks to me it melted on Plug A & D.
A19 = White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A21 = ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22 = Igniter, same as A21
D9 = ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D11 = TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
Haven't checked for weak signal w/the new dizzy yet. I'll do that tomorrow.
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goldievt
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Aug 11, 2002 04:52 PM




