So I finally got the engine in and attempted a start up tonight using a basic Crome basemap (stock ITR scaled for 310cc injectors) and ran into some very odd problems.

Scenario 1. Turn key to the on position, accessories light up and fuel pump primes but when I go to crank the car everything immediately dies as if I've blown a fuse. Turning the key back to the on position yields nothing. No door open chime, not ANYTHING. However, pulling the negative battery cable and resetting the ECU will often reset the problem giving me back my accessories until I attempt to start the car again.

Scenario 2. This time the car doesn't die when I attempt to crank it. The engine will turn over but it isn't making any spark. After a few cranking attempts it will usually revert back to the first scenario.

Scenario 3. Key in on position again with accessories working. Attempt to turn on headlights and the cars electrical system immediately dies like in scenario 1.


I've got the three main grounds connected securely and yes the valve cover ground is in the right spot. Someone mentioned to me it could be something with the electronic load detection circuit (ELQ it it's proper term I think)? Any ideas?

 

I'll try to help you out as much as I can, As I spend alot of time dealing with electrical problems, and am planning on going to school for it. Please inform me what you have done in between each senario.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dxcoupe. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll try to help you out as much as I can, As I spend alot of time dealing with electrical problems, and am planning on going to school for it. Please inform me what you have done in between each senario.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing changes except for pulling the negative battery cable to reset the ECU. The first two scenerios happen at random.

The entire wiring harness was pulled from the car and reinstalled. Would missing a sensor plug cause such a problem? I know the car would throw a code or possibly not run correctly if I sensor wasn't connected properly but I can't see it having the problem I'm describing even if one wasn't connected. Map, TPS, Distributor plugs and Coolant temp sensor are connected for sure though.

 

I actually had a pretty similar problem not too long ago with my CRX. It may sound stupid, but I had relocated my battery to the trunk and hadn't grounded it that well. It was fine for months, then decided to **** on me for no reason. You said you checked the 3 grounds and the valve-cover ground, but did you happen to check the battery ground (both sides)? Throw an ammeter in between the negative post and the negative clamp when it's disconnected - if you draw more than a few milliamps consistantly (more than .120 amps or so) you have a short. Also, make sure that the battery clamps are clean and TIGHT on the posts as i've had problems keeping a car starting with it loose.

As far as not getting spark, I think that might be a seperate issue...


Good luck