What's up everyone,

Listen guys I need all of the help and opinions that I can get and any would be greatly appreciated. I over-revved my motor this weekend at the track and I may have bent one of the valves on the intake side. I need your opinions on what to do as far as helping me prevent this from occuring again. Please help me get my car running as soon as possible...Thanks a lot.

13.6@97

 

Only thing to prevent it from happening again is just to be careful. I've been in your shoes, and it cost me a crap load of time/money to get fixed.

Link is in my sig from where i over-revved.

 

sounds like your classic 3rd gear @ 8K to 2nd overrev...
bro you just need to change your technique. I had that prob too. when you
engage 4th, pull the gearshifter back and to the right. TRY and hit reverse. You cant engage it over 50mph, there is no synchronizer there. when going back into 4th pull it back and to the right and feel the 4th gear tree and think before you engage the clutch. practice this 20 times a day for 3 days. it will become habit in 2 weeks, then you will never have to worry. worked for me! Thanks to ILUVTEC's advice on shifting. You have to learn to get better sometimes eating humble pie is good for us all.

Also, mechanicaly you can overbuild a VTEC head by doing a few things. Valves bend at high rpm due to the sudden acceleration of the downshift... if your cam timing is behind due to a poorly tensioned timing belt you can encounter this problem mechanically more often. Be sure it is tensioned properly and all the items in that chain are in working order, change your tensioner pulley and spring each time you do a timing belt. Also, you can install a timing belt that stretches less at high rpm. this will help with anything from a stock to a tall lob-ED set of cams. you can increase the spring rate on your valves to reduce coil bind, and you can lighten the valvetrain also. I reccomend the extra rocker travel due to the ITR Lost motion assemblies. You can also run a well made Ti retainer, just keep in mind they only last 15K in a daily driven car unless you cryo them and nitride coat them as well, then you may see 30K out of them. ANything Titanium needs inspecting as it is a racing only material for those that can and want the extra light stuff. Stay with a stock valve... I recommend the ITR intakes.,.. they drop right into any B-series VTEC head. Spoon and Mugen sell a set of VTEC rockers that are damn light... the rocker arms on the B,H,F series engines is where a LARGE portion of the unsprung weight comes from in the valvetrain. You will reduve the possibility of coil bind IMMENSELY with these. there are lesser types on the market that elimate VTEC, steer clear of them. the other thing I can think of is know you limits on cam tuning for the cams you have chosen. you can tag valves together at overlap or hit pistons if you dont know the limits of the stretch over the valvetrain at high rpm. thats about all I can think of for now...

 

Thanks a lot for everyone who posted info. I will take them all into consideration when it is time to build my up my head. Just to give you some more insight on the valves condition: It only looks as though the right valve on the intake side behind the third cyclinder is stuck open. There was no compression coming from that cylinder at all while all the others where 200 +. I know for a fact that I did not over rev the motor going down the track it was done during the burn out and the car stalled out at the end of the quarter mile.