Well everyone, I'm currently trying to ressurect the nightmare which is my car...

Here's the deal.

Back in July, the car died while idling. Bought a new fuel pump because I couldn't hear mine priming. Didn't help. replaced the dizzy, fired it up and the thing ran. ran rough though. got a second dizzy, still idled rough but the sporadic bogging was gone. It's all well and good now.

Then, a week ago today, the car died at school. It would start up, idle high, then die no matter what type of gas I'd give it. I managed to get it home by disconnecting vacuum hoses and having the thing idle funny. I was also getting a code 14. (IACV) I thought that that was the problem, but mine tested fine. not only that, the IACV only works when no throttle is applied, so that must not be the problem (maybe the code was a result of a loose wire on the wiring harness). I replaced the fuel pump a second time under warranty, because mine was making weird noises (the new one sounds much better). Now, I noticed that my cam alignment was a little off. Fixed that, but it still doesn't start. Pulled spark plugs and they were covered -and I mean drenched- in gas! when I tested for spark the timing light flashed, so I thought I was getting some. Maybe just not enough to run the car? Now it doesn't even catch when I start it it just cranks.

Checked the coil, it was good.

Should I replace the dizzy with a brand new one? I have a hook up and can get it for much cheaper than retail, but it's still expensive (about 300 cdn) ANY ADVICE???? Help!


[Modified by 89_Y_49, 10:33 PM 8/7/2002]

 

IACV's work even with trottle applied.

Bypass the SOB first and see if that is your issue.

I put a piece of an aluminum can between the IM and the IACV.

 

And now that I have finished reading your post.......flooded engine....new plugs?

 

The computer is trying to help you. The iacv is supposed to open while driving too, that way when you let off the throttle it doesnt stall. 14 can also been triggered by vaccum leaks. If you can get it to idle by pulling vaccum lines, what lines are you pulling, and are you sure its not the iacv? Try opening the idle air bypass screw.

New plugs are definetly a good idea. Check the cap and rotor too. A new distributor wont fix anything since yours probably isnt broken.

 

yeah it sort of ran when I pulled some vacuum lines, specifically the BIG one on the back of the Y8 intake manifold and the FPR vacuum hose. putting my foot on the throttle would bypass the IACV, right? The funny thing is, now I can't even get it to idle. An engine needs air, gas, and spark to run, right?? The engine won't even catch now, so that can't be the IACV, right? It has plenty of air because I put WOT when it stalls. Also it has plenty of gas, because the plugs are dripping with gas, that leaves spark, then, doesn't it??

 

anyone else??

 

um, this doesnt just "happen"

sounds like you need to recheck your timing belt tensioner and reset your cam timing.

maybe thats why you have all spark/fuel/air - just not at the right time...

check your timing belt for wear too...

HTH,

t..

 

Update: Still not working. We're now getting a persistent Code 3, gonna check that out... we're getting spark, the plugs are covered in fuel, we half-*** compression tested it at about 180psi across the board (after a couple cranks)...

Thing is, he's using the AEM cam gears, and the markers on those are pretty unclear so it's hard to tell what is 'on'. We never moved it from when the car died originally except just to test if it would run and it didn't, so we moved it back to where it was. Still won't run Timing belt looks fine though

*Update again* No more code 3 on attempted startup... unplugging random sensors didn't throw any codes while it was trying to start either. Sounds like a blown ECU, maybe...


[Modified by raene, 2:10 AM 8/8/2002]

 

so what do you all think... how do I test for a bad ECU??? I just unplugged the MAP and it's not even throwing a code...