My B20VTEC buildup
I thought you guys might wanted to see my B20VTEC buildup. I'm the first one here in Denmark to pull it off so the Honda fanatics over here are pretty excited. Hope some of you have comments to the parts I'm using and advises for the performance parts i should put into this beast later on. The Frank engine has been dropped into my CRX EE8, which is much like the SiR, so I did not have to buy new axles, tranny etc
This is my basic setup i will brake the motor in with:
B20B3 block bored/horned to 85 mm.
Import Builders Spec. Wiseco 12.0:1 pistons
Probe Industries Ultra Light rods
Hondata B16A Heatshield
ARP head studs
Stock B16A1 head
Injen CAI
JG Edelbrock header with IB 2.5" collector
Thermal 3" cat-back system
2.5" Carsound cat.
7 lbs Clutch Masters flywheel
ACT 6 puck clutch
B&M fpr.
PRS4 stand alone engine man.
Here is my std. CRX EE8
The B20B3 block has been bored to 85 mm. (sorry for the poor resolution on the next two pics)
The B16A top with closed VTEC oil line and dowel pins moved
The B20 block with two new Wiseco pistons

The JG header with a 2.5" collector
My new CM flywheel..... nice piece
Now it just need to be tuned on the dyno..... what numbers should I get with this basic setup?
Thanks
Henrik
Modified by CRXEE8 at 3:13 PM 7/13/2003
This is my basic setup i will brake the motor in with:
B20B3 block bored/horned to 85 mm.
Import Builders Spec. Wiseco 12.0:1 pistons
Probe Industries Ultra Light rods
Hondata B16A Heatshield
ARP head studs
Stock B16A1 head
Injen CAI
JG Edelbrock header with IB 2.5" collector
Thermal 3" cat-back system
2.5" Carsound cat.
7 lbs Clutch Masters flywheel
ACT 6 puck clutch
B&M fpr.
PRS4 stand alone engine man.
Here is my std. CRX EE8
The B20B3 block has been bored to 85 mm. (sorry for the poor resolution on the next two pics)
The B16A top with closed VTEC oil line and dowel pins moved
The B20 block with two new Wiseco pistons

The JG header with a 2.5" collector
My new CM flywheel..... nice piece
Now it just need to be tuned on the dyno..... what numbers should I get with this basic setup?
Thanks
Henrik
Modified by CRXEE8 at 3:13 PM 7/13/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racer613 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks great. Hose in the background looks nice too. Joo Rock! You should run pretty quick in the 1/4....I am not sure what hp you will put down.... keep us posted!!!!!!!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man.....
As you can see on this pic I have full leather interior and it's heavy as s*it but nice for daily driving

Can I hope for low 13's with slicks if I change the seats on trackdays ?
I'm I looking at about 200 whp with this corrent engine?
Thanks man.....
As you can see on this pic I have full leather interior and it's heavy as s*it but nice for daily driving

Can I hope for low 13's with slicks if I change the seats on trackdays ?
I'm I looking at about 200 whp with this corrent engine?
Should be a good setup. Your car looks like it has been taken car of.
So the motor is already in the car? If not and money and time allow, I would suggest some good head work. There is some good power to be made in a set of nice set of cams coupled with a good port and polish job. I regret not get my head ported and polished.
So the motor is already in the car? If not and money and time allow, I would suggest some good head work. There is some good power to be made in a set of nice set of cams coupled with a good port and polish job. I regret not get my head ported and polished.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jeff C »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should be a good setup. Your car looks like it has been taken car of.
So the motor is already in the car? If not and money and time allow, I would suggest some good head work. There is some good power to be made in a set of nice set of cams coupled with a good port and polish job. I regret not get my head ported and polished.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I have not monted the head on right now. I was thinking of getting the head ported and polished but I thought it would be better to have it done when I buy new cams together with a new TB and intake manifold. Is it not true that a tuner needs the cams to make the best result?
I was thinking of buying Skunk2 stage2 cams, camgear, valvetrain and intake manifold and a STR 68 mm tb. How does this sound?
Modified by CRXEE8 at 8:11 AM 7/14/2003
So the motor is already in the car? If not and money and time allow, I would suggest some good head work. There is some good power to be made in a set of nice set of cams coupled with a good port and polish job. I regret not get my head ported and polished.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I have not monted the head on right now. I was thinking of getting the head ported and polished but I thought it would be better to have it done when I buy new cams together with a new TB and intake manifold. Is it not true that a tuner needs the cams to make the best result?
I was thinking of buying Skunk2 stage2 cams, camgear, valvetrain and intake manifold and a STR 68 mm tb. How does this sound?
Modified by CRXEE8 at 8:11 AM 7/14/2003
I hope those aren't the stock sleeves bored out to 85mm. The stock 84mm sleeves are already weak at 12:1 compression or more. With the sleeves bored a full mm, I wouldn't expect to see too many miles/kilometers on that engine.
Buuuuuuut...it should be pretty damn fast. Have fun. You should have no problems with low 13s.
Buuuuuuut...it should be pretty damn fast. Have fun. You should have no problems with low 13s.
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that 6 puck is gonna grab like a hell.
and some lowering springs would be nice.
be carefull revving high on that 85mm bore...
other than that, looks verrry nice.
and some lowering springs would be nice.
be carefull revving high on that 85mm bore...
other than that, looks verrry nice.
you're going to need more than the b&m fpr to supply the fuel needs. in our b20/vtec setup,we started off with stock injectors,b16 fuel pump,apex'i vafc, and a b&m fpr and we kept running REEAALLY lean!! especially in vtec.we swapped out the stock injectors for a set of RC440's and controlled them with a greddy e-manage unit and that took care of it. I suugest that you look deeper into the fueling .
Thanks alot for the advices. Yes it's stock sleeves but I wont be going over 8000 rpm I think. Jeff at IB suggested that the rev. limiter should be set at 8800 rpm but I would like to drive it for some time. With stock cams there is not much point going past 8000. I hope there will be enough fuel with the std. 240 cc plus fuel psr. We will see at the dyno next week (I hope so).
Can I get the 200 whp I'm hoping for with this setup??
Can I get the 200 whp I'm hoping for with this setup??
I think you should have no problems hitting 200whp
I hit 180 w/ stock b20 block and stock b16 head w/ ITR cams intake manafold and throttle body.
as long as its tuned correctly
but yes, easy on those thin walls, lots of compression
I hit 180 w/ stock b20 block and stock b16 head w/ ITR cams intake manafold and throttle body.
as long as its tuned correctly
but yes, easy on those thin walls, lots of compression
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nominous »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just looking at your head, how have you closed off the VTEC oil hole?
From here it just looks like silicone? did you plug it or weld?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it's plugged and welded by a machine shop with an NPT fitting so it should be fine.
From here it just looks like silicone? did you plug it or weld?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it's plugged and welded by a machine shop with an NPT fitting so it should be fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22 CD5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we're using skunk2 intake manifold,jg 64mm throttle body,and stock b16 cams</TD></TR></TABLE>
May I ask why you are using the stock b16 cams?
Do they give you a nice tq. from down below or will you change them later on?
Are the Skunk2 stage2 to wild for my setup if I wont be reeving much over 8000 rpm?
Do you also use stock sleeves and have you had any problems with it?
Thanks
May I ask why you are using the stock b16 cams?
Do they give you a nice tq. from down below or will you change them later on?
Are the Skunk2 stage2 to wild for my setup if I wont be reeving much over 8000 rpm?
Do you also use stock sleeves and have you had any problems with it?
Thanks
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i dont know about the 85mm bore but i do know that we were shifting our b20vtec at 8300 when it had stock b16 cams, shifted at 8600 with ctr cams. we made 186hp and 138tq w/stock bottom end, stock head, b16 intake manifold and dc header. you say you have a prs4 standalone.... whatever that is, never heard of it, but if its any good tuning shouldnt be much of an issue... im partial to the aem ems.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Furry in your eye »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know about the 85mm bore but i do know that we were shifting our b20vtec at 8300 when it had stock b16 cams, shifted at 8600 with ctr cams. we made 186hp and 138tq w/stock bottom end, stock head, b16 intake manifold and dc header. you say you have a prs4 standalone.... whatever that is, never heard of it, but if its any good tuning shouldnt be much of an issue... im partial to the aem ems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info. You can read more about the PRS systems at http://www.perfectpower.com. I think I will use it as wire-in just to control: fuel, ignition, vtec, rev lim., flat shift and drag lauch. It's much easier to use it as wire-in so you don't have to make new cables all around in the car. My PW0 ecu is fine since it's made for the euro B16A1 vtec engines. Maybe I should get som RC 310 cc just to be sure.
Thanks for the info. You can read more about the PRS systems at http://www.perfectpower.com. I think I will use it as wire-in just to control: fuel, ignition, vtec, rev lim., flat shift and drag lauch. It's much easier to use it as wire-in so you don't have to make new cables all around in the car. My PW0 ecu is fine since it's made for the euro B16A1 vtec engines. Maybe I should get som RC 310 cc just to be sure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redlinegsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow those seats are rare!!! Clean car bud</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the comment. Yes you will only find those seats in a CRX EE8. You can order them at Honda for about $2500 each
Thanks for the comment. Yes you will only find those seats in a CRX EE8. You can order them at Honda for about $2500 each
We just started the engine tonight and it sounds really mean. I was thinking about using the std. ECU and fpr. for the break in period. What kind of fuel pressure shall I use?? How about 45 psi or are the injectors not even big enough for break in under 4000 rpm?
Im going to be running 360cc injectors from a mitso lancer with my stock B20/B16.
On a stock PW0-E00 ECU being larger injectors open for the same length of time they will supply more fuel to the engine, just about enough to take care of the bigger displacement. Fine tuning will be taken care on the dyno and re-mapping the ECU to accomodate.
A friend in canada is runing stock injectors with a FPR on a stock B20 bottom end but they are close to being maxxed out.
IMHO you will need bigger injectors
On a stock PW0-E00 ECU being larger injectors open for the same length of time they will supply more fuel to the engine, just about enough to take care of the bigger displacement. Fine tuning will be taken care on the dyno and re-mapping the ECU to accomodate.
A friend in canada is runing stock injectors with a FPR on a stock B20 bottom end but they are close to being maxxed out.
IMHO you will need bigger injectors
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