just rebuilt b16a1, its idling around 1500rpm. haven't adjusted the tps correctly yet, but i understand this doesn't make a difference - the idle screw on the TB is right in, anyone got any ideas? (maybe a leak between the intake manifold and the head?)

also, how would i clean the IACV? when i tried disconnecting the IACV and starting it up it didn't affect the idle at all..

 

try taking the air intake off of the throttle body and cover it with your hand, if it doesn't die you have leak somewhere. intake gasket a good place to start. good luck

 

by monitoring the output voltage from the TP sensor, the ECM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injector or and unstable idle because the ECM thinks the throttle is moving. Note: the TP sensor is not replaceable. In the event of failure, purchase a complete throttle body unit from the dealer parts department. AND NO THE TPS IS NOT ADJUSTABLE. or if u would like to u can do the ghetto thing that i did i took a dremel saw and got a TB of a junkyard brought it home and made slits in the screw that was rivited in to hold the TP sensor so i could unscrew it and replace the one on my car and if you would like to clean ur IACV just go and buy some of the carberator cleaning fluid take the IACV off and spray and it and then take some of them ear cleaning things and just clean some of that carbon crap off. If u guys dont like what i wrote i dont give a crap cause thats just my 2 cents on this subject


[Modified by dkay040, 4:55 AM 6/6/2002]

 

u need a hug.

 

I don't know, but i replace my tps sensor. bought one for $20 from a junkyard, and the guy unscrewed it off a b-series tb. i know that there are some throttle bodies at there that the tps is bolted onto the TB, but for my TB, that isn't the case. my original slow hf engine, the tps sensor was bolted on the TB and so was the throttle body onto the manifold. i also doubt it's the tps, because, if you disconnect it, it still idles perfectly fine. You have to disconnect your eacv/iacv sensor to adjust your idle. i tried adjusting the first time, but the idle didn't go nowhere with the eacv sensor connected. yes, the idle screw is on the TB, just get a flathead screwdriver.

what do you mean by cleaning the iacv sensor? when you take it out, you'll see two holes, one has a metal net, the other is just a hole you can see inside. you could scrape off the dirt gently on the hole with the metallic net. don't scrape too hard, you'll put a hole in it, and i don't know what would happen.

 

sorry dude but yer wrong, my JDM DA6 is fully adjustable, i have a feeling USDM DA6's (dunno wot model they are over there) are riveted on, JDM come stock with screws which you can adjust..

 

ive searched HT and read the many posts by people on idling issues, though they dont seem to help in my situation... just cleaned the IACV and FITV tonight, put them back on with gasket sealant around the o-rings, so there shouldn't be any air leaking from there, its a new TB gasket so i doubt its that, only other thing i can think of is that air is leaking out the butterfly plate (its a bored TB, 62mm) - might try some crc tomorrow night and see if that makes any difference..

ive heard that you cover up the upper-left hole just inside the TB, and if it dies this means your FITV is screwed... is this correct?

how would one correctly clean the IACV/FITV? would brake cleaner do the job?

any ideas appreciated, a 1.5k idle is annoying :/

 

Try spraying some WD40 around the areas in question. That should help determine if it's a vacuum leak, if the engine momentarlys(sp) revs up. Also, look around your injectors. Most cases a vacuum leak will cause an uncontrollable fast idle on a Honda. The MAP sensor is seeing more air flow by, sooo it tells the ECU to widen the Pulse Width to the injectors, to compansate for it. Which in turns causes the idle to start speeding up.


[Modified by 88_SC_CRX_Si, 6:57 AM 6/6/2002]

 

actually there not adjustable. screws or rivets, how does this make the TPS adjustable, they are calibrated from the factory simple as that. u can replace the tps by doing what i said with the dremel but other then that its not adjustable weather u have JDM or USDM that doesnt mean anything y dont u call up helms and tell them that there wrong ok


[Modified by dkay040, 6:20 PM 6/6/2002]

 

ill take a photo of mine to show u dkay040, its fully adjustable.. JDM 1989 DA6 XSi. to take my TPS off all i have to do is undo the screws, the holes in the TPS for the screws are larger than the screws, in a sorta oval shape, meaning that you can move the TPS with the screws in side-to-side on the TB


[Modified by mick, 11:06 PM 6/6/2002]

 

how does moving ur tps adjust ur tps all that does is move it thats not adjusting what it does it will do the same thing it did before u move it dont be stupid

 

Ajustment of the TPS is done by rotating it to give the appropriate voltages at WOT and idle.

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/asmsbm/adjidle.htm

If you examine how the TPS is attached to the TB, you'll notice there is a catch where the TPS sits in relation to the throttle plate. Depending on how much the TPS is turned when fixed to the TB will determine the output voltages.

 

got it fixed, thanks all for your input - turned out to be 2 vacuum leaks, one on the tube going to the MAP sensor, the other a spigot which didn't have a tube connected to it... now i have a 750rpm idle again


cheers