Master Cylinder replacement, bench bleed?
Going to do this this weekend finally. I've got 4 sets of instructions from various sources and they all tell me something different.
The Helms manual and Chiltons say take the old one off, put the new one on, bleed the air out of the system. (4 wheel I assume).
The generic installation instructions that came what the rebuilt M/S I bought and the Haynes manual say I need to bench bleed the cylinder before installing it which basically seems to be just pumping some brake fluid into it before installing it... is this just to avoid having to bleed the lines later?
The Helms manual and Chiltons say take the old one off, put the new one on, bleed the air out of the system. (4 wheel I assume).
The generic installation instructions that came what the rebuilt M/S I bought and the Haynes manual say I need to bench bleed the cylinder before installing it which basically seems to be just pumping some brake fluid into it before installing it... is this just to avoid having to bleed the lines later?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AcidGord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... is this just to avoid having to bleed the lines later?</TD></TR></TABLE>You ALWAYS have to bleed the 4 wheels after you install the MC. Bench bleeding just saves you some time. If you don't bench-bleed it it'll seem like it takes forever. What I've seen is you get some air bubbles from the wheels, then it seems like it goes FOREVER with no bubbles. Then finally you get a few more bubbles & you're done. If you don't bench-bleed you might need 2 quarts of fluid total.
Yeah, I wasn't implying that you didn't have to bleed them afterwards. Just wondering what the purpose was of bleeding the cylinder first. That answers my question, to save yourself a hell of a lot of time doing it after the fact.
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