Alright so I've done some searching and I can't find my answer. Hopefully you can help.
I just bought a 94 hatch with an ls vtec swap with a chipped p28. Its got a CEL and I'm having trouble reading it. It should be real simple but its making me feel like an idiot.
Here's what I get when I jump the connector -
6 very fast flashes
1 very long flash
1 very long pause
2 long flashes
1 fast flash

Now, those last two should indicate code 21 vtec solenoid, right?
Well, I haven't driven it extensively yet because it's not quite complete. It gets very hot when I push it, hopefully this is because it has no radiator fan (another issue entirely) but I did push it just past 5500 RPM and the pitch changed indicating the vtec kicked in, or so I think.
I just checked the wiring for the solenoid and whoever did the swap went ghetto. No pin, just jammed the wires into the pin holes. Possibly why I'm getting 21, so I'll address that once I get some pins and do it right. (If you can tell me where I can get those pins that would rock too)

what about those other flashes though? How am I supposed to read those?

Thanks for any advice/ help. I'll be here quite a lot in the coming months getting this beast resurrected. I plan to post pics of the whole process - interior, exterior, engine bay etc.

 

ok man so straight from my manual if your running obd1 these are the codes, code 6 is coolant temperature, could be thermostat coolant temperature sensor, blockages, id go with the sensor first its a 19 year old car probably could use one if its the original block and sensors etc. second one could be code ten, intake air temperature the codes only go to 92 so im not sure what the very long pause is unless its supposed to be "code zero" indicating a ecu problem, but I would assume it wouldn't show any other code if that was the case, in the even its suppose to be code 30 not 20 and your ecu just,lagged, I guess lol, then that's your tcm signal a. being that you have an lsv code 21 is for the 1.8 gsr motor and that's neither the motor or ecu your using otherwise you wouldn't have an lsv with an ecu from a 92-95 civic si. in the even that's the case than code 1 is oxygen content. so o2 sensor? I hope this helped, im in the middle of a turbo lsv build but I havnt buit the motor yet because I want to do it once and do it right, so as a suggestion pm me what your block is and what the head came off of, ill try to think of some things to help, and if you have some extra money to spare, help yourself out and buy a chiltons or at the very least a Haynes manual for both the car your block came from and the car your head came from, being that you have a "hybrid" motor your car is trying to make sense of things that were never production based. stupid things go wrong with lsv's if theyre not built right, one of which being timing, because you have a different head, timing is always off so most of us use adjustable cam gears to help off set that timing flux. if theres anything else I think of while im away or diddling with my build ill put up another post. good luck

 

Ok, the guy I bought it from said it was throwing Intake temp code but maybe he meant coolant.
Coolant temp makes sense to some degree considering the fan wasn't hooked up and it was getting pretty damn hot, not quite to the dangerous level, thankfully. I'll see if I can come by a temp sensor. It's also got a block gaurd, which if I'm not mistaken, means an impeded coolant flow. That might play a part no?

The head apparently came off an SI, I wasn't told anything more than that. I'm working out the kinks as I go.
I was just reading a little while ago about the O2 sensor,s 7 wire, 4 wire, etc. I'm going to check it out tomorrow. I know it's running a little rich but I figured that might have to do with the tune considering the whole thing looks like it was just thrown together.
Thanks for the help. I'm gonna get this beast pointed in the right direction sooner than later.

 

A block guard could act as a blockage in the system, I'm doing something similar with mine darton makes sleeves with channels for coolant that basically turns it into a dry block and makes it safer for boosting, but because of that I'm buying an itr water pump and oil pump to combat the loss of coolant flow. Is the radiator the stock radiator or is it an aftermarket dual core. I know sometimes if they're cheap aftermarkets they were poorly put together and have crimped channels straight from the start. And if you havnt wired your radiator fan up to act oem and turn on just after the thermostat opens you can just toggle it, it's kind of a pain in the *** but I helped a friend with his rwd crx project for drifting and he did both had a two fan setup so the fan would kick on normally for street driving and he could turn the other on full time for race. As far as running a little rich that's normal. Being that is an lsv the combustion chambers smaller than it was, especially since most of the injectors that Honda used are the same size the ecu could just have a baseman for a car that needs more fuel. I'm not sure where your located but here in Vermont it's rare to find someone who knows they're stuff and I have to tune everything myself, there's no shop here that can tune, we have to go out of state for dyno. So if you come across a friend of a friend or someone who can tune/knows Hondas really well, it'll be a huge advantage.

 

Bump- meant to spell basemap phone auto corrected me

 

Good info, thanks. Its got the half radiator in it. I wired up the oem fan and it kicks on like it should from the factory. I haven't got all the items I need to make it street legal yet so I've only driven it around the block but it hasn't gotten hot again since I got it wired in. I'm going to reinstall the A/C system so I know I'll need the condenser, not sure if I should go to a full radiator or not. I guess we'll see. I had also planned on buying that coolant product that says it runs 30* cooler than regular antifreeze. I don't know anything about it really though. Still gotta do some research on it.
As for injectors, it's got RC310's.