I have heard you can spray a fog of water into the engine with a spray bottle, causing the cylinders to get hot from the steam I guess. The rings are supposed to expand... I would need to double check this with the friend who told me this, but I think its right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lexluther &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard you can spray a fog of water into the engine with a spray bottle, causing the cylinders to get hot from the steam I guess. The rings are supposed to expand... I would need to double check this with the friend who told me this, but I think its right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

something doesn't seem right with that.....

 

I dont know, I will do some homework on it. It might be a helpful method if its true.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miahmouse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">compression test???</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with this. You know your oil control rings are OK now because you aren't blowing blue smoke but you don't know the condition of the compression rings. Make sure you do a dry and a wet compression test. A wet compression test is just like a dry except you squirt a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder. This will tell you if the rings are having a hard time sealing.

Another thing to look for while doing the compression test is this:

look at the gauge when you are cranking it. When you do a compression test you should only crank the engine over 5-6 times each time you measure compression.

Look at the gauge and see if the needle jumps up high, close to whatever the final compression would be (say 180 psi or so) and then on the last 4-5 revolutions just adds a few pounds to the reading.

The other possibility is that it will jump up slowly in fairly even steps up to the 180 psi.

This may indicate a restricted exhaust because the exhaust gases can't escape faast enough. It's not uncommon for an engine that has been burning oil to foul the cat with carbon deposits from the oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lexluther &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard you can spray a fog of water into the engine with a spray bottle, causing the cylinders to get hot from the steam I guess. The rings are supposed to expand... I would need to double check this with the friend who told me this, but I think its right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Spraying water on something hot is only going to cool it off. Any expansion of the rings would normalize as soon as the engine is started.

Maybe he was talking about sucking water into the intake while the engine is running to try to break up deposits?

 

I just put another 50 miles on it, shot up the road about 25 miles, then turned around. I ran a compression test just before, it wasnt good, they were all around 150, except numebr one, it was closer to 160. this was with then engine cold(before it was started today).... cranking it 5-7 times, with open throttle. I didnt test it after warmup.

 

The rings I used were Hasting Chrome, I called someone who knows more than I do about this stuff, and he said chrome rings take longer to seat. Is this correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lexluther &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just put another 50 miles on it, shot up the road about 25 miles, then turned around. I ran a compression test just before, it wasnt good, they were all around 150, except numebr one, it was closer to 160. this was with then engine cold(before it was started today).... cranking it 5-7 times, with open throttle. I didnt test it after warmup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to do the compression test warm so everything has expanded and sealing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scott_Tucker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You have to do the compression test warm so everything has expanded and sealing.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scott_Tucker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You have to do the compression test warm so everything has expanded and sealing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, they do. You also have to make sure you used the correct grit hone. It will be different than that of cast iron rings.

 

Great! Well I dont know which hone I used, but I now have over 400 miles on the engine, and its still going, I am still getting close to 40mpg. No smoke, I think I will just keep driving it and see what happens. I bought the car for a runner, a 40 mpg runner so I wont have to drive my truck all the time. It gets pretty good mileage, IE 24-26mpg. Thanks

 

Hi

I kinda have the same problem, it seem my car is burning oil when I downshift at high RPM, and on hard accelaration also more RPM more smoke. At idle everything seem OK, if I snap the throttle smoke is coming out.

Heres the engine story

PR3 1999 Head as about 65 000 milles.
LS Block rebored 25mm oversize
with PCT oversize piston and new rings
12.8:1 Compression on 94 octane.
The block as about 2000 milles on it.

I hear sometimes is you only rebuilt the botton or the head one will cause the other one problem.... I will do a compression test shortly to tell me if my valves are okay... befor dyno I had 300 PSI on all 4 cylinders.


any clue?

Thanks Charles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0dzArmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi

I kinda have the same problem, it seem my car is burning oil when I downshift at high RPM, and on hard accelaration also more RPM more smoke. At idle everything seem OK, if I snap the throttle smoke is coming out.

Heres the engine story

PR3 1999 Head as about 65 000 milles.
LS Block rebored 25mm oversize
with PCT oversize piston and new rings
12.8:1 Compression on 94 octane.
The block as about 2000 milles on it.

I hear sometimes is you only rebuilt the botton or the head one will cause the other one problem.... I will do a compression test shortly to tell me if my valves are okay... befor dyno I had 300 PSI on all 4 cylinders.


any clue?

Thanks Charles
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You had 300psi cranking compression? Was the compression ratio measured at 12.8:1 or are they '12.8:1' pistons? You must be running pretty big cams. Does it detonate? I would say do a compression and leakdown test and see what they are now. They shouldn't be that high. This will tell you nothing about your oil burning problems unless there is too much blow-by causing the PCV to get overloaded. Read the entire thread, I expain why a compression and leakdown test will not tell you anything about your oil control rings.

 

Those Info was from Omniman here https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
Their are PCT ( Civic Type R Piston B16b ) in a LS block.

since i'm a bit oversize .25mm I hadded a .1 compression ratio. No detonation at all the car is tune with hondata S100


http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3218217


I Thought I leakdown test could tell me if I have some bent valves?... if my vavles are not closing completely maybe oil can come in?





Modified by G0dzArmy at 11:21 AM 8/17/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0dzArmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those Info was from Omniman here https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
Their are PCT ( Civic Type R Piston B16b ) in a LS block.

since i'm a bit oversize .25mm I hadded a .1 compression ratio. No detonation at all the car is tune with hondata S100
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your compression test results just seem a little high. There is no problem with that if you are not detonating. I was just curious.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0dzArmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I Thought I leakdown test could tell me if I have some bent valves?... if my vavles are not closing completely maybe oil can come in?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you had bent valves the engine would runny pretty crappy.

I'm pretty sure you have bad oil control rings especially since it blows smoke on hard acelleration. Replace the valve stem seals also or what you said might happen (about a new head causing an old block to burn oil and vice versa - it is true that this happens). Even if your head is new, replace them while the head is off - its easy to do on the bench and seals aren't that expensive. You then have assurance that the valve stem seals are most likely good. I say most likely because excessive stem to guide clearance can rip apart new seals

 

Okay... Even if the hole block was rebuilt 2500 milles ago you still something is wrong with my oil control ring...

what best explained my problem what this...

Puffs of smoke on occasion, clears up or spews black smoke at higher throttle. Smokes more when cold. Downshifting to slow the car down and then getting on the gas yield a big blue cloud. Valves/guides/seals are your likely culprit.

"but my car is blowin black smoke!!!"
and you're losing oil? YES Your plugs/o2 sensors are getting fouled from the oil and the car is running richer. There's just too much carbon in the smoke to see the blue stuff...

When I snap de throttle it come out blue... but on highway throttle W/O it seem to come out black also... but a friend said it smells like burning oil too.

But if you can assure me bad valves seals don't smoke that much at high RPM...
Well I guess something is wrong with my oil control rings

 

If you are blowing black smoke the fuel mixture is way too rich and you should take care of that before you do anything or you are just going to wipe out any repairs you do. If you've been driving around rich like this it could be washing oil off your cylinder walls, hence the faulty rings.