low idle and stalling on gsr swap
alright h-t, this is the first time ive had to post a thread on here because usually (and for the past 2-3 years) i could always find the solution to my problems just by using the search. this time, however, i cant find a thread with my specific problem or a working solution to my problem, so i came here to ask for some help.
heres the problem:
i swapped a b18c1 into my eg, started it up and its having problems idling. when cold it idles at around 8-900 rpm and when the car warms up the idle drops to 500 rpm and lower and most of the times it dies unless i give it gas. when cold, the iacv seems to be bypassing too much air, as it emits a sucking sound way louder than usual. when i plug the upper hole on the inside of the throttle body, it idles lower but doesnt die. when warm, the sucking sound goes normal. the motor has a skunk2 manifold and a stock throttle body.
if anyone could take time out of their day to help, it would be much appreciated. and yes, i have searched the FAQs sections and all it tells you is how to fix a surging or bouncing or high idle. all of which are not symptoms of my motor
heres the problem:
i swapped a b18c1 into my eg, started it up and its having problems idling. when cold it idles at around 8-900 rpm and when the car warms up the idle drops to 500 rpm and lower and most of the times it dies unless i give it gas. when cold, the iacv seems to be bypassing too much air, as it emits a sucking sound way louder than usual. when i plug the upper hole on the inside of the throttle body, it idles lower but doesnt die. when warm, the sucking sound goes normal. the motor has a skunk2 manifold and a stock throttle body.
if anyone could take time out of their day to help, it would be much appreciated. and yes, i have searched the FAQs sections and all it tells you is how to fix a surging or bouncing or high idle. all of which are not symptoms of my motor
i tried adjusting the idle screw on the throttle earlier today. still low idle. i even tried to set the idle with the iacv disconnected like youre supposed to. with the iacv disconnected it idles lower. to the point where it will die after 5-6 seconds if i dont give it gas.
and what do you mean by the throttle sticking closed? like the throttle plate? yea it does. that was the first thing i checked
and what do you mean by the throttle sticking closed? like the throttle plate? yea it does. that was the first thing i checked
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screw the little allen head bolt up on the bottom of the throttle plate lever, where the throttle cable goes, opening the throttle plate alittle. it will raise the idle
alright ill try that thanks, but i dont think that would be the problem since i was using this throttle body on my b18a right before this swap
yea im thinking that is the problem. im just confused as to why it would all of a sudden stop working, since i was also using the same iacv on my other motor and it was just fine
i think the iacv is working because it drops the idle like it suppose too when unplugged. it sounds like its just not getting enough air.
which is why i was thinking opening throttle plate, and you even confirmed a sticky closed throttle plate.
ive had this problem before too, it was the plate. adjust screw fixed it
i should add that ive never had a bad iacv so i dont know problems with it
which is why i was thinking opening throttle plate, and you even confirmed a sticky closed throttle plate.
ive had this problem before too, it was the plate. adjust screw fixed it
i should add that ive never had a bad iacv so i dont know problems with it
yea i see what youre saying civickiller, the idle does drop which is why it probably dies. im gonna try to do what you said. it makes sense.
also i should add that i never got to adjust the timing on the distributor because it never idled where it was supposed to. could the timing affect it in that way also?
also i should add that i never got to adjust the timing on the distributor because it never idled where it was supposed to. could the timing affect it in that way also?
if distributor is off, it can affect idle
as long as your dont have adjustable cam gears or if you do set them to zero
first make sure physical timing is dead on, then take off distributor cap and make sure its pointing at #1. thats the closest u can without a timing light
as long as your dont have adjustable cam gears or if you do set them to zero
first make sure physical timing is dead on, then take off distributor cap and make sure its pointing at #1. thats the closest u can without a timing light
ok i checked and my physical timing is perfect. no jumped teeth or anything. i moved the distributor and it stops it from dying but it still idles at i would say 5-600 rpm and sounds like it wants to die although it wont. i adjusted the throttle plate to where it wont stick but ever since i moved the distributor, it idles at 1700 rpm most of the time and sometimes if i press the gas lightly it will drop to its low idle state.
im thinking i may have a vacuum leak along with the original problem now. also my cel went on. code 14 for iacv. could that just be it?
im thinking i may have a vacuum leak along with the original problem now. also my cel went on. code 14 for iacv. could that just be it?
alright so i reset my ecu, no cel. i adjusted the throttle plate more along with the idle screw and i got it to idle at 1500 rpm smoothly with no surging but occasionally or when i tap the gas, the idle drops to 400 then back to 500 until i press the gas again. basically like it wants to die. this is frustrating. what could it be? sound familiar to anyone?
UPDATE: ok so earlier today i asked my uncle, who is a mechanic, for help diagnosing the problem. he used some carb cleaner to find a vacuum leak at my tb and my intake manifold. the IM leak is small but the tb one is a little worse so that is whats causing my idle to stabilize at 1500 rpm (my guess).
as for the low idle issue, my uncle heard a slight ticking noise coming from the distributor that didnt sound normal to him and he told me to check it out. after taking off the distributor cap, i found that my freakin rotor was missing a bolt and was probably alternating erratically (e.g. way advanced, then way retarded) which caused my motor to misfire at low rpm's and not have a stable idle, while at higher rpm's the groove of the D shaped slot in the cap was holding it in place enough for it to act as if it was running smooth (although the timing was probably way off).
tomorrow i am going to go pick up a new rotor for my distributor, along with a new cap since mine was a bit corroded, and try to solve my vacuum leak. i will update after i start up my motor again tomorrow or if i find any more problems.
btw thank you to the people who actually took some time to try and help me
as for the low idle issue, my uncle heard a slight ticking noise coming from the distributor that didnt sound normal to him and he told me to check it out. after taking off the distributor cap, i found that my freakin rotor was missing a bolt and was probably alternating erratically (e.g. way advanced, then way retarded) which caused my motor to misfire at low rpm's and not have a stable idle, while at higher rpm's the groove of the D shaped slot in the cap was holding it in place enough for it to act as if it was running smooth (although the timing was probably way off).
tomorrow i am going to go pick up a new rotor for my distributor, along with a new cap since mine was a bit corroded, and try to solve my vacuum leak. i will update after i start up my motor again tomorrow or if i find any more problems.
btw thank you to the people who actually took some time to try and help me
im having the same problem with my gsr that i just rebuilt with 12.5;1 cr pistons rest is stock for now and cant get it to idle for the life of me
ok so i fixed the distributor and bought a new cap and rotor along with it just to be safe, and i still have the low idle when i tap the gas... but i have yet to fix the vacuum leak so hopefully that solves it
alright guys, i finally fixed my issue. so the high idle was caused by a vacuum leak at my tb so i got a sheet of that paper gasket and made my own. the low idle was caused by my ecu giving too much fuel at idle and stalling out my motor. i switched ecus and it idles and runs perfectly now. i assumed that an unmolested p72 ecu was what i was running but it turned out to be chipped, so im guessing it was tuned to give more fuel at idle.
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boost'dsiR
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Dec 17, 2005 01:00 AM




