Just swapped in a set of ITR cams into a B16A motor on a '99 SI. I lubed the cams well with assembly lube, lashed the valves, and put a new gasket on the valve cover. I also bought 4 quarts of straight 30 motor oil. I am just really confused of where I go from here. I don't want to break anything or do something wrong. If anyone can steer me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it.

 

thoroughly coating with a good assembly lube and torquing everything to spec are the two "crucial" things to do.

beyond that, just valve adjustment, and making sure everything is in spec.

ITR cams are mild enough you shouldn't have to worry about changing out the LMA's.

 

You may want to consider ITR LMA's, but otherwise you should be good to go if everything is torqued to spec. Not much breaking in you can do for cams. Enjoy.

 

You dont want to let it idle at first for a porlonged amount of time, you want to start it up amd hold the revs at like 2000 for at least 15-20 minutes..

HTH
Brian

 

Will the straight 30 weight oil be o.k. to run in the engine for the first 300 miles? Also, when can I start going up to 8,500 rpm's? Should I follow the guides given for breaking in new engines, and keep the rev.'s under 3,000, then under 4,000, then under 5,000, etc. for 300 miles at a time?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Osokwik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will the straight 30 weight oil be o.k. to run in the engine for the first 300 miles? Also, when can I start going up to 8,500 rpm's? Should I follow the guides given for breaking in new engines, and keep the rev.'s under 3,000, then under 4,000, then under 5,000, etc. for 300 miles at a time? </TD></TR></TABLE>

That process of breaking in the engine is more for the pistons rings. I can't give you an exact number, but be easy on the engine for a while. Whats the worst that can happen?

 

Well I forgot to add, that I also swapped out the intake and exhaust springs in favor of the ITR ones. I guess that if you guys say it's no big deal, I'll just take it easy for a while. I just hope that it turns out o.k. in the end.......

 

this is my own personal camshaft break in procedure.......i think it works very good.

1. drop in the 30 weight oil.
2. start the engine up let it idle for about 10-15 seconds so that it builds enough oil pressure and so there arent any abnormal sounds.
3. then bump up the idle to 2000-2500rpm for 15-20 miniutes.
4. drive the car for approximatly 60-100 miles slowly bringing the RPM's up a little at a time.......dont over do it right away. try to keep it under 5000rpm or so.....
5. after the 60-100 miles you can change the oil and filter to your regular 5W30 or 10W30 engine oil and you should be good to go.

also it might be a good idea to re-check the valve clearence again just to make sure.

anyone else want to add something to this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also it might be a good idea to re-check the valve clearence again just to make sure.
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i'd definately recommend to go back and check the valve lash after its been running for a while

 

When the engine is cold...