Built LS/VTEC. Hadn't driven the car in over a month, just had it out for a couple days (home from school). Messing around on the freeway, car stalls at 8500. So i put the car in fifth and drop the clutch. Starts right back up, runs perfect, but stalls whenever I push the clutch in. So i pulled off and got towed home. I'm guessing its a spun bearing but I haven't had any time to take it apart yet as I had to leave back for school. I built the motor from oilpan to valvecover, all the bearing clearences were perfectly in spec. Reason I guess... It was low on oil. I didn't check it when I got home, and it was .... embarrassly low . I was wondering... If the crank is still salvagable, whats all necesary for a repair? I'd buy a full bearing set, but Is it going to be necessary to have the rod honed round again? If so, when the pistons are removed, I'd purchase new rings but then is a block hone required? The motor has around 7k miles on it & started with a fresh bore/hone. All I've had the chance to do is pull the stick to see that the oil was low, but there were no shavings on the stick. Thanks And... THe battery was also near dead. Once I was home I tried starting the car and it barely started. I tried a different battery and it fired right up. just a lil fyi


Modified by SiBuddy00 at 5:07 PM 9/21/2006

 

Does it knock before VTEC? Can you isolate the knock in the head or the block? I'd change/add oil and check the oil pressure first.

IF you're planning on tearing it down:

If the crank is still salvagable, whats all necesary for a repair?
- Rent a dial indicator, some v-blocks, grab a Haynes or a spec sheet, check runout

I'd buy a full bearing set, but Is it going to be necessary to have the rod honed round again?
- The only way you'll probably be able to figure that out is by checking out-of-round and rod taper to find out if you warped it at all. You can have it honed I guess, but you're going to have to get different bearings to fit the crankshaft, especially if it's gotta be reground.

If so, when the pistons are removed, I'd purchase new rings but then is a block hone required?
- Depends on how many miles you put on it after the build (glazing). Also depends on the type of rings you get, and how much of a bitch they are to seat. Cylinder honing usually helps in that aspect.

Long story short, to fully check this thing out, you're going to need some shop capabilities, and you may or may not get off cheaper by taking it apart and sending the parts off, depending on who you know. Good luck, yo.

 

I have a full shop with all the tools needed. The rings were OEM honda. Skeet... I also have good machinists locally in my area, they do great work and are decently priced. I might just swap my b16 back in, throw it on the motor stand and see what I can find out. Thanks for your response, any others are welcome as well