[url=http://youtube.com/watch?v=8Q6c3hl5FXM[/url]

i really hope not

4k on the bottom end

just did an oil change i think its been doing this for at least 3k miles now

i was told its valve tick but yeah what do you guys think?

EDIT:

poor man R ctr pistons b16 head oem headgasket

rocket valvesprings and titanium retainers with skunk2 stg2 nono pro cams

intake adjusted to .007 and exhaust .008


Modified by preludedriva at 1:49 PM 10/18/2007


Modified by preludedriva at 10:25 AM 12/31/2007

 

Kinda hard to tell in the video since we can't physically hear where the sound is coming from.But to me, it sounds like valve tick. Get a valve adjustment and see if that quiets it down.

 

valves

 

Sounds just like my car did after driving my car 50K miles after blox b cams install. Adjusted the valve clearances and it got much quieter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds just like my car did after driving my car 50K miles after blox b cams install. Adjusted the valve clearances and it got much quieter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did a valve adjustment

are you guys on the hearing the same sound? the thumping sound when i rev it?

i also took off the pan and windage tray to check the rods

no shavings whats so ever in the pan

the caps have no play when i push up on em nor do the rods

what i did was BDC the rods and pushed up on the caps to see if there was any play

 

we took a scope to the entire motor each cylinder on the block and even the head


the sound seems to be coming from the intake side on clyinder one

we also pulled 1 plug at a time to see if the sound got quieter and it sounded the same taking 1 out each time

 

im getting close to 5k on that bottom end

been "knocking" for almsot 1.5k now and ive been RAILING on it alot lol 8.5k rpms at least once daily

still sounds the same well at least it does to me

 

if you adjusted the valves did you check the lost motion assembly on number one? Im pretty sure its not the lma though cause they cause more of a ticking sound. I would say it was the cam but it does sound kinda local to cylinder 1. what did you gap the rings at? piston to wall clearance? sounds more like piston slap than anything.

 

i shoulda checked it

this is my friends old head i took it off his motor ran fine with top fuel stage 2 cams in it
00 si head

+ i had a machine shop put in valvetrain by rocket motorsports

im thinkin it might be piston slap too my timing might be a teeny bit off which explains why it took 3 hours to get my timing belt on
the belt only had 3k on it but taking it on and off prolly stretched it even if it was OEM

 

.

 

that sounds like valvetrain. did u ever check your p2v clearances? i kno ctr pistons like to eat valves especially with larger cams. they also like to hit the head.

 

well i had stock cams in it for a while i just put those cams in bout 2k miles ago i guess thats why ive been hearing that sound after i did the cams

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludedriva &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i had stock cams in it for a while i just put those cams in bout 2k miles ago i guess thats why ive been hearing that sound after i did the cams

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didnt catch the part about you hearing the noise after installing the cams...post up the specs of the springs and cams. one of the biggest mistakes with running aftermarket cams are that the springs are not matched to the cam.

the springs should have specs stateing the "seat pressure" the "max lift" and the "coil bind height" and the "duration". rocket motorsports makes a gen 1 and a gen 2 spring. the gen 1 is heavy seat pressure 13mm lift, and the gen 2 is near stock seat pressure 14mm lift. not sure what the duration is but I'll look it up if you get the me the gen number. also post up the specs for the cam. You may be hammering your valve springs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing LLC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I didnt catch the part about you hearing the noise after installing the cams...post up the specs of the springs and cams. one of the biggest mistakes with running aftermarket cams are that the springs are not matched to the cam.

the springs should have specs stateing the "seat pressure" the "max lift" and the "coil bind height" and the "duration". rocket motorsports makes a gen 1 and a gen 2 spring. the gen 1 is heavy seat pressure 13mm lift, and the gen 2 is near stock seat pressure 14mm lift. not sure what the duration is but I'll look it up if you get the me the gen number. also post up the specs for the cam. You may be hammering your valve springs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

rocket springs and retainers gen 2

stunk2 stage 2 non pro cams

those are what im running

 

well the specs for your valves say you have 14mm of max lift and your cam specs are IN .489", EX .469" so you have plenty of room with those valvesprings. are you using stock rods? did you assemble the engine? if not can you get the blue printing record from the builder?

 

are you using the stock valves? if so did you check them for straightness?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing LLC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the specs for your valves say you have 14mm of max lift and your cam specs are IN .489", EX .469" so you have plenty of room with those valvesprings. are you using stock rods? did you assemble the engine? if not can you get the blue printing record from the builder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock rods

stock valves i was told if i had springs and retainers for my setupi would be fine with stock valves

i assembled the motor using the hanes manual :D

 

well, are you sure the noise is only coming from one area?

 

Do you remember where you set your piston to wall clearance?

 

you dont "set" your piston to wall clearance...you just check it to make sure its in tolerance. when you buy pistons you buy them for your exact bore and application. most pistons are barrel design so you check about 1.5"-3" below the wrist pin at 90 degrees perpendicular with a micrometer basically find the widest point on the skirt and go with that measurement. then you use a dial bore gauge to check the bore size, then you find the difference to get your piston to wall clearance.

all I can say given the circumstances is, bad LMA, bent valve, possible coil binding on a spring set (unlikely, but ive seen it before...a couple sets had different seat pressure and lift)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing LLC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont "set" your piston to wall clearance...you just check it to make sure its in tolerance. when you buy pistons you buy them for your exact bore and application. most pistons are barrel design so you check about 1.5"-3" below the wrist pin at 90 degrees perpendicular with a micrometer basically find the widest point on the skirt and go with that measurement. then you use a dial bore gauge to check the bore size, then you find the difference to get your piston to wall clearance.

all I can say given the circumstances is, bad LMA, bent valve, possible coil binding on a spring set (unlikely, but ive seen it before...a couple sets had different seat pressure and lift) </TD></TR></TABLE>

as long as its not a knock ;p or bad wristpin :/

 

Sorry, bad semantics.

 

 

have you checked for coil bind or anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing LLC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you checked for coil bind or anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry but what is that?