what do you guys know about this procedure? thoughts and feelings?

I know that sometimes with higher mileage engines that oil sludge gunk and build up can sometimes actually help seal rings, gaskets and what not and that sometimes by flushing out an old engine too well it can actually cause problems. say if a build of gunk was helping a piston ring keep a nice firm contact to the cylinder and you flush all that out you could start getting blow by and crap

In case anyone is unfamiliar with the kerosene flush you basically drain the crankcase and fill it with a 75/25 mixture of motor oil and kerosene with a cheapo filter and run it at about 2k rpm for 15-20 min after reaching operating temperature. basically spraying hot kerosene over all of your engine parts. then you let it sit for a few hours until the engine is fully cold. drain the crankcase pull the filter and then fill it with a 50/50 oil/kerosene mix and let that run again for 15-20 min after reaching operating temp and then let it sit again for a few hours until the engine is fully cold drain and then fill with cheap oil and filter run 15-20 min after reaching op temp let stand and then drain and fill with good oil and good filter. this last step is to basically flush out any remaining kerosene and give all the internal parts a good recoating of oil.

 

well a reason why you would start to get blowby is the fact that you are causing damage to the rings and almost everything else in the engine when it is running that unlubricated. Kerosene has the viscisity of , well, WD-40 and on top of that it breaks down oil so mixing oil in it is useless because it too breaks down.

i would not be suprised if you would cause bearing damage, ring damage, damage to seals and almost everything int he engine the craetes a seal running it at 2k with Kerosene

to me that is like running the engine with no oil for like 10 minutes
i would NEVER reccomend to do this

 

thats why you mix it with oil as well, i doubt that the kerosene would break down the oil that quickly i mean its only gonna be running for less than 30 mins...do you know anyone who has actually done it?

 

believe me
kerosene WILL break down oil "that fast" when it is being slushed around and circulated through an engine spinning at 2k for 15 minutes.

think about it nam, that is like you putting WD-40 in your engine
it has almost no ability to prevent components from touching and causing damage to one another. Oil is there to give the engine and all of its components a slight "film" that keeps each piece of metal from direct contact with one another.
that is why an engine can spin up to 18k plus(think motorcycles and F1) rpm without sustaining damage.

Oil is the life of your engine

doing this would be like (yes i like to use anologies) you taking half of your blood out and just leaving the plasma in there. It would effectively thin you blood supply out, yes you would have a CHANCE of surviving but it is definately not healthy.

given that was not a very good analogy because your body is MUCH MUCH more sensitive to change than almost anything on earth but it gives you an idea of what i am saying.

 

OK i found this write up of how to properly do it. Apparently a lot of people with the V6 Probe's and MX6's have done this and had good results

I am qouting Mr. MX6 in this one...

1. Drain oil except one quart, or you can drain all the oil and add one quart of new oil. (Starting with a NEW oil filter is recommended).
2. Add the remainder as kerosene, approx. 3 quarts.
3. Start the engine. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
4. Let it run until warm, not HOT, just warm. About 5-10 mins.
5. Drain the entire contents, during or just after you can continuously pour kerosene into the engine until it comes out clear...
6. Add one quart oil, 3 quarts kerosene.
7. Run the engine again until slightly warmer. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE
8. Drain the entire system.
9. Again if you think it requires, you can pour Kerosene into the NON-running engine as it drains out until it comes out clear.
10. Pour about one quart of oil and let it run out of the oil pan.
11. Add your favourite oil/oil filter.(replace oil pan plug...)
12. Run engine until itÂ’s at operating temperature. Check to make sure it is running ok.
13. Optional...You can drain the system one last time and add new oil filter and oil...

This does a great job...

The residue that comes out should be quite black and a thin liquid...Chunks or sludge should be dissolved...


Flushing engine with kerosene gives very good results. Engine oil flush additives are basically kerosene too, put them in a glass bottle and compare..

However, there is one exception for the engine flush: high mileage cars. In an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thin. I have heard of engines with over 180000 miles that worked fine, but when flushed it failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper ring (now really clean) contaminated the oil and screwed the rod bearings. So having said that Â…

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for the out come of this procedure... do so at your own risk.. IE you decide if your car is of insufficient mileage to expect a good result..


OK so i was wrong in letting it run that long and letting it even go past op temp. I figure ill give it a shot, even if i destroy the motor the car only cost me $600 and I can just pick up a demo from work and drive a brand new car around for $25/wk + gas. I'm gonna do it this weekend and i'll let you guys know how it comes out. The main reason i wanna do it is because right now the motor is burning through about 1qt/1000mi which imo is a lot but it pulled very good compression right across the board

 

So anyway I did the flush today i basically started by draining the oil, put in a mixture of about 1.5qt of oil and 3.5qt of kerosene ran until the temp gauge just came to the white and drained it. all i can say about what drained out is it looked like absolute crap. so i put a fresh filter on and added another qt of oil and 3 more qt's of kerosene and ran it again for about 4 minutes this time and then drained it. i poured the rest of the 2.5 gals of kerosene i had right through the open crankcase until it all poured out clear and then i poured a qt of oil through the open crankcase and then a fresh filter and filled it with cheap dyno oil and ran it for about 15 minutes to flush out all the remaining kerosene and then drained that and filled with royal purple 10w30. cant say as i noticed a major difference in how it ran as it ran pretty good before but ill keep you guys posted on how much oil i use now. i was using over a qt of oil every less than 1k miles :-( so anyway i did the flush and imo so far it came out very nice

 

volvo owners do this alot

 

Someone told me once that to condition seals and clean out the 'sludge', as you called it, add about 1 quart automatic tranny fluid to every 4 quarts oil. Run the car as normal for about 500-1000 miles then drain and fill as you normally would. According to him, auto tranny fluid is oil (like in a manual tranny) with detergant additives to condition seals in your trans, thus also cleaning out gunk and keeping things running smooth.

Just my $0.02

 

yea atf has cleaners in it.. we actually use it to clean alot of stuff at the old shop cause it works so well

 

well i started it up cold after sitting all night and there was ZERO hla noise. ill keep you guys posted and tell ys if my engine blows up in a month