The fuse that controls your cluster lights/tag lights/running lights on my 94 integra keeps blowing. I know it's gotta be a short but wondering if anyone has had this issue and possibly what they discovered in their search to fix it. I have the cluster out and laying on the seat so it's not the problem. I can put a new fuse in and everything is fine but as soon as I turn the switch for the running lights you can hear it blow the fuse. Both hi/low functions work on the headlights and the blinkers.

 

If you have an aftermarket HU, pull it and check the red/black lead in the stock radio harness, [orange or orange/white if harness adapter is being used] this lead is illumination power and must not be used for anything else, if it is not used it must be "capped off" to prevent shorting out, fairly common when aftermarket HUs are installed. 94

 

Yeah it's an aftermarket HU but I don't believe that's the issue. Any time I install a stereo whatever wires are not used on the harness get folded over and taped up. I will check it though just to eliminate it as a possible cause.

 

I just had this problem the other day. Like he said, check the wires, if not, mine was a loose ground under the dash.

 

Yes if ever you wired anything extra to the running light gauge cluster fuse, it'll blow. it can only take 7.5 amp. Instead use the factory outputs that use quick disconnect terminals. there should be an outpu for th running light circuit, always hot circuit, on circuit, and acc circuit. These are run parrallel to the wiring before there are any voltage drops(loads). As for a bad connection to ground, yeah, that can overload the circuit, but that is so hard to find cause wires are integrated in bundles with large connectors.

 

Pulled the HU before work and everything was fine with the wires. So now I'm stumped again. No cluster installed and nothing else wired into the fuse box except the power for my boost gauge but it's on a seperate circuit.

 

Unplug the harness running to the rear of the car, see if fuse still blows.

Better yet, connect a multimeter to the load side of fuse plug, set meter to continuity, meter will show full continuity and "beep" unplug harneses from the fuse box untill there is no continuity, [no beep] see if fusestill blows, if not, short is on a lead from that plug most likely a red/black lead,you can depin the lead and reconnect plug to conferm it is that lead, if so, what ever is not working, [lighting up] is the circuit with the short.

Another thing to try, pull and unplug the "Dash Lights Brightness Controller" see if fuse still blows. 94

 

Do you know where this harness connects that runs to the back?
I need to borrow a multimeter from a friend cause I can't find mine. I have a test light but that's it.

I also noticed that my temp gauge is not working at all. The fans will come on butthe temp doesn't move. Related????

 

The rear harness should plug into the under dash fuse box, or very close to it.

Just find the harness, [drivers side] fallow it to the connector and unplug it.

I would go look at my 94 but it is tucked away for the winter.

S2Integra The 94 Integra park light/illumination lights are at fuse 19 -10A, not 7.5A, only the 98, [and up maybe] has a 7.5A fuse for the illumination lights.
But I do agree with you about the "free pins" when adding electrical options, Honda gave use the free pins for adding electrical loads, they should be used. 94

 

Well it turned out to be something as simple as a burnt out bulb. I never would of thought that burning out one filament on a dual filament bulb would result in that issue. I removed the burnt bulb from the D side and the fuse does not blow. I then stuck the good bulb from the P side into the D side and it still doesn't blow so I guess it's fixed now. I'll pick up a new bulb in the morning. All lights are working and what not. I went ahead and installed my gsr cluster since I had the other one out already. Damn gas gauge went to empty and stayed there. So I swapped out the green film on the back from the one on my ls cluster and it's reading 1/2 tank like it should. I removed my abs and have an aftermarket wheel so I just took the bulb out of those spots so I don't have the dummy light stay on. I still have no temp gauge but it could be a bad sending unit so I'll take the one from my old ls motor and swap it out. If that doesn't correct the problem then I don't what it could be. Thanks for everyone's input.