lol...ya whats wrong with that picture?

 

That picture with the bushing damage is NOT from the Z10
radius arms, If it was the damage would be towards the side not towards
the bottom. That looks like it is from a excessivly lowered car that has
been bottoming out.

 

i have had my Z10 radius arm for 8months or so now...it is the best suspension mod on my car that i have...helped the front end out alot...and other than my wheels rubbing at full turns alittle..it has been a great product and i would recommend it...Robert has great customer service also.

Mark

 

just installed my jimfab bars yesterday and this is absolutely the best mod i have done to my car (minus the turbo). good quality, easy to install, function excellent, and jim has given me awesome customer service. all in all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinGSRstyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just in case you havent bought the JimFabs yet, try http://www.exospeed.com, i was looking for the same bars and they have em (the JimFab Crossmembers that is) for 285...i wonder how much shipping is...i'll email them and post it up..

just looking out for fellow HT members

~Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes we do have the Jimfab bars IN STOCK. ready to ship.

 

Gwaaa....
Some people say the Z10 is the better, others say the JimFab is better. Another thing I heard is Z10 is better for the EF, while JimFab makes a better EG crossmember.
I drive a 90 CRX Si, is there any truth to what I've heard about the Z10's offering better clearance on the EF?
TBone says he's running a SMSP header on his!

 

if it was from an excessively lowered car the damage would be above the bolt hole, as compression will not tear the bushing, rather the tension on the urethane causes the tear.

the tear is from the fact that you are not using the idea of an A arm. If it was made correctly, the radius rods heim would be on the same axis as the LCA, effectively creating a giant A arm.

 

jim fab = Bad ***

 

Ive Never heard of a bushing problem?? Anyone else, ?
I think this may be the problem with that bushing being worn in the picture!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=509913

 

could be from poor installation

 

Yes, Poor installation with rods adjusted incorrectly or a poorly
setup suspension or even a tweaked suspension from prior accidents etc.

 

Rob, please share what a correct installation entails. From my understanding the rods are to be in tension. Since that's hard to quantify do you have an ideal/average torque value for the rod, say using a crowfoot socket and wrech on the flats (as perpendicular as possible)?

 

The only issue I have had with my Z10's is rubbing at full lock, EG chassis, but they are definitely worth what I paid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sackdz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JimFab is the better buy. Better design, better price.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

That pic is from my suspension. It's sitting on GCs with koni yellows. As for to much lowering, I have it dropped an inch with 475 lb springs up front and 375 in the back. I happen to like suspension travel and no those springs don't feel to stiff (45 series tires are great). What you can't also see in that pic is the backside where the bushing is torn completely around and the other lca bushing which is torn through. At the time of that pic those bushings had less than 15k mi on them. I'm not here to slam any product. I'm just reporting my own experience.

In regards to installation. I followed your instructions. I made sure my alignment was within spec before putting them on. I've also done a few engine rebuilds and suspension installs so I think I'm compentent enough to handle a traction bar install. There is also no accident history.

I've since switched to the jimfab bars and will report the long term results as well for a comparison.

 

I agree with you here sir. After seeing your picture, I now know what causes the bushings to break, the Z10 bar. I've had the Z10 on for 2 years now, I've gone through 4 sets of bushings so far and couldn't figure it out. I am contemplating taking them off too see how 'different't the car drives at auto-x. If it is substantial, I'll look into other solutions. If it isn't, look in classifieds for mine for sale.

BTW, you can't 'pull' the Z10 kit that far forward w/o it literally pulling the shock fork to the LCA, causing the two to rub against each other. It also pulls the bushing out forward. The JimFab is optimal to prevent this, but I question its affect with such a short leverage arm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gwaaa....
Some people say the Z10 is the better, others say the JimFab is better. Another thing I heard is Z10 is better for the EF, while JimFab makes a better EG crossmember.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what ive heard as well.

 

i thinkt he point on the EF is that both are fine the only thing both companies had to do was replicate honda's design. Im no maste enginer though so take it for what you will

 

I think that the EG Z10 needs to be rre-enginerred, whether or not all of the problems regarding bushings are related to the Z10 traction bars or not is something that can be debated, and I wouldnt mind seeing it get debated.

To me, with the EG bars, the bottom line is that when there is a hint of a product causing damamge to a car, for the sake of argument and reputation of the business, the product design needs to be changed where any damage to a cars componets would be avoided. I say this because I hate hearing people talk **** about Z10 traction bars in general when they need to be talking **** about the Z10 EG bars. In all honesity I think that the Z10 ED bars are a better product than the jim fab ED bars. Ball end links on both the LCA side and the crossmember side, as well as more mounting points to name the two most obvious.

EDIT-Also from a business aspect, I have to say that I have recieved great customer service from Robert.

 

Will the JimFab offer clearance for a large tube header (such as the 10-94 piece) aswell as offer me the ability to run a EG rad. The website doesn't say anything about the rad, and I've heard a JDM 4-1 wont even clear the JimFab bars.

 

What about the Lakewood traction bar? G-Sport pro it's only $279 @ Jegs

http://www.gsport-online.com/tbars.html

 

From what I see on Z10's website, they no longer sell anything except some oil cap fittings. I guess they don't have any traction bars anymore.

Otherwise, if they've actually forgotten to put their products on their website, they're obviously too stupid to be worth buying from.

 

the products are in a drop down menu at the top.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TodaSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about the Lakewood traction bar? G-Sport pro it's only $279 @ Jegs

http://www.gsport-online.com/tbars.html</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do they offer the Titanium one (or anyone for that matter) for EF's?

 

No, they aren't.

Examination of the site source code reveals they're using some broken DHMTL which doesn't work in any standards-compliant browser. Looks like they need to get someone else to do their website.