I have a loose cam seal, can I use Jb Weld???

 

wtf? you joking? how bout you fix it the right way and replace it

 

Well... Thanks for the attitude. I'll look into that. The mechanic that looked at it mentioned using some kind of spray stuff to fix the leak because the seal is loose. So I assumed Jb Weld would do the same thing.

 

If you got a dohc its possible you just need a new cam cap seal and some rtv.

But u gave no information to go off of.

 

Sorry I'm new to this, I'll have to go look in the morning to see if it's a dohc. The engine is a 94 b18b if that helps? It's just loose enough to leak oil.

 

Get a new valve cover gasket, as well as a new cam seal. RTV is what you need. Not a spray, and not job weld.

 

Thanks you guys. I'm going to look into all this tomorrow morning and try to avoid having to order online if possible. 👍👍

 

It sounds like you have an sohc. You probably just need a cam seal, not a cam plug.

 

Read?

If you are talking about the plug on the exhaust cam, in front of the distributor, no you don't need to do anything drastic. The seal is probably just twenty one years old. Rubber seals shrink and leak over that time. Follow the manual, replace it with a nice soft new seal (from the dealer!) with a light coat of Hondabond on it and you will be good to go.

 

Thanks spAdam, makes sense.

 

Make sure you use a torque wrench on that cam cap.

 

spAdams got it! Thanks. Can you help me with something? I'd like this to be fixed asap. But my local auto shop only sells replacement o rings for the cam seal, no plugs. Should I go ahead and try this out before ordering a new seal plug online? They told me I should only need a new plug if it has been damaged. Which by looking at it, it hasn't. Does this sound right?

 

Oh and it isn't 20 years old. It was replaced recently when the motor was rebuilt. Mentioning assuming that matters. I was told when the cam seal was put in the o ring was pitched which caused this leak, this guy could have had no idea wth he was talking about (the guy I bought the car from).

 

Sorry, nine times out of ten anymore that someone wants to know why something isn't working, the answer is that it's just old and worn out.

Is it an aftermarket aluminum one? The factory ones are rubber or plastic... and I've never had issues with them, despite there being dozens of fancy aluminum ones on the market.

Edit: I do think the later plastic ones have O-rings.

 

It's a rubber one. Trying out these new o rings now. I'll update. It seems to be a common issue so hopefully this fixes it. Now my engine over heating, that's another story Hopefully flushing the radiator and getting a new upper hose fixes it.

 

lol yea jb weld wont wroke under that tremdous heat and pressure needed for seals and gaskets. it will probably just end up leaking

 

Used to seeing the f18 in the accord forum and read it that way.

OP you can use rtv on the plug. Just make sure to let it cure for atleast 5 hours or so before trying to start it, the more time the better. There is a howto in the sticky at the top of this forum. Make sure to torque it correctly.

 

I've been extremely busy and haven't gotten to putting in these o rings yet, I'm hoping to get it done this weekend. If I can't find Hondabond in the store I'm going to get Rtv. So no JB Weld lol.

But question, I can't find anyone with a torque wrench. Can in use a regular wrench if I'm careful???

Oh and I got the over heating issue fixed by simply replacing the upper hose thank goodness. That was a major problem so I'm lucky it was as easy as that.

 

Goto the autoparts store and get permatex "The right stuff" grey, "The right stuff" black will work too. It's the old hondabond/flange sealant and is much better than regular rtv and I think even the new hondabond now a days. It has much better properties than rtv and much higher success rate and lasts much longer.

No.. Go buy a cheap torque wrench if necessary, just make sure it has a certificate of calibration from the factory.

The rocker arm bolts and caps etc have a specific torque they need to be, and a specific sequence the bolts need to be torqued. Not following the proper torque procedures in the FSM can be devastating. Trying to guess the torque with a regular wrench is asking for serious folly.

 

You can get a 1/4" drive in-lb torque wrench from Home Depot for about $70. I've had mine for a couple of years now and I use it regularly, had it checked at work and it's still well within calibration.

 

I found someone with one I can use thankfully so I can avoid spending that extra buck at this moment in time lol. Hopefully I can get it this done this weekend, I'm tired of oil getting all over my **** lol.

I'll look up that permatex, I noticed rtv is pretty cheap so that made me wonder the how the quality is.

Thanks you guys.

 

Or you can just go to the dealer and get a tube of Hondabond

 

Ahhh I didn't even think of that! Good idea man. 👍👍

 

I think the latest hondabond is more like a standard rtv than the anaerobic sealant like the flange sealer.

I thought I saw a discussion about the make up of hondabond and how it has changed.

I could be mistake though and from my understanding, permatex, the right stuff is cheaper per oz than hondabond.

 

Really? The old HT formula is out the window? That sucks.

I've always substituted ultra grey when I couldn't get to the dealer. Success rate has always been about the same but I felt the honda stuff was a little easier to work with... Dare I say "creamier?"