ITR flywheel
how but lighting the ITR flywheel.?
will it be just as good as those pricy ( 500$) flywheels?
or m i getting what i pay for?
whats a good recommanded flywheels for an allmotor GSR with ITR internals and basic bolt ons???????????
will it be just as good as those pricy ( 500$) flywheels?
or m i getting what i pay for?
whats a good recommanded flywheels for an allmotor GSR with ITR internals and basic bolt ons???????????
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSTEALTH GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how but lighting the ITR flywheel.?
will it be just as good as those pricy ( 500$) flywheels?
or m i getting what i pay for?
whats a good recommanded flywheels for an allmotor GSR with ITR internals and basic bolt ons???????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're looking for "bang for the buck" in a flywheel, it is difficult to beat CM/Fidanza.
will it be just as good as those pricy ( 500$) flywheels?
or m i getting what i pay for?
whats a good recommanded flywheels for an allmotor GSR with ITR internals and basic bolt ons???????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're looking for "bang for the buck" in a flywheel, it is difficult to beat CM/Fidanza.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSTEALTH GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how but lighting the ITR flywheel.?
will it be just as good as those pricy ( 500$) flywheels?
or m i getting what i pay for?
whats a good recommanded flywheels for an allmotor GSR with ITR internals and basic bolt ons???????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
you could always get your stock f.wheel lightened at an automotive machine shop for way less than an aftermarket f.wheel. It serves the same purpose and is more affordable.
will it be just as good as those pricy ( 500$) flywheels?
or m i getting what i pay for?
whats a good recommanded flywheels for an allmotor GSR with ITR internals and basic bolt ons???????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
you could always get your stock f.wheel lightened at an automotive machine shop for way less than an aftermarket f.wheel. It serves the same purpose and is more affordable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you could always get your stock f.wheel lightened at an automotive machine shop for way less than an aftermarket f.wheel. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and the most you can take off is around 3-5 lbs , thats pushing it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It serves the same purpose and is more affordable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and is inferior compared to a good lightened FW , overall mass isnt the only thing to worry about , WHERE the weight is taken off is far more important.
you could always get your stock f.wheel lightened at an automotive machine shop for way less than an aftermarket f.wheel. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and the most you can take off is around 3-5 lbs , thats pushing it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It serves the same purpose and is more affordable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and is inferior compared to a good lightened FW , overall mass isnt the only thing to worry about , WHERE the weight is taken off is far more important.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and the most you can take off is around 3-5 lbs , thats pushing it.
and is inferior compared to a good lightened FW , overall mass isnt the only thing to worry about , WHERE the weight is taken off is far more important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not necessarily.
I use to have a lightened B16A f.wheel a couple years ago which i had ligtened; in stock form is around 20-21lbs. I had it shaved down to 12-13lbs and it was perfectly safe. I ran on it for about a year until my car got stolen, never had any problems with it at all. So, you can technically shave more than 5lbs off a stock F.wheel. Although, lightening more than 12lbs isn't recommended on a stock f.wheel for stability reasons.
Machine shops usually know what they're doing when they lighten a flywheel too.
and the most you can take off is around 3-5 lbs , thats pushing it.
and is inferior compared to a good lightened FW , overall mass isnt the only thing to worry about , WHERE the weight is taken off is far more important.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not necessarily.
I use to have a lightened B16A f.wheel a couple years ago which i had ligtened; in stock form is around 20-21lbs. I had it shaved down to 12-13lbs and it was perfectly safe. I ran on it for about a year until my car got stolen, never had any problems with it at all. So, you can technically shave more than 5lbs off a stock F.wheel. Although, lightening more than 12lbs isn't recommended on a stock f.wheel for stability reasons.
Machine shops usually know what they're doing when they lighten a flywheel too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the overall mass is still too far outboard to really net you the benefits of a good lightened FW , and IMHO there is only one good one.
thats my point.</TD></TR></TABLE>
point taken.
Although I don't quite understand your meaning of your statement:
"the overall mass is still too far outboard to really net you the benefits of a good lightened FW"
Are saying that lightening a stock FW will not show any benefits/gains if not the same peformance as an aftermarket unit? This is how I'm comprehending your statement, and I find that hard to believe.
I'm not arguing your ideas, i'm just trying to understand your logic.
My main point is to save $ on an clutch part that IMO, doesn't need to have so much $ being spent on it. More bang for your buck right ?
thats my point.</TD></TR></TABLE>
point taken.
Although I don't quite understand your meaning of your statement:
"the overall mass is still too far outboard to really net you the benefits of a good lightened FW"
Are saying that lightening a stock FW will not show any benefits/gains if not the same peformance as an aftermarket unit? This is how I'm comprehending your statement, and I find that hard to believe.
I'm not arguing your ideas, i'm just trying to understand your logic.
My main point is to save $ on an clutch part that IMO, doesn't need to have so much $ being spent on it. More bang for your buck right ?
ive personally had all three, stock flywheel approx 19lbs, ITR flywheel approx 14.5lbs and exedy 8.8lbs flywheel...
my thoughts... stock flywheel is GAY.
ITR flywheel is a GREAT bang for the buck, its only 80-120 bucks used +25-30 bux for resurface.
exedy 8.8 is really cool for quick rev's, but kinda pointless for a daily driver. Unless you are a spirited driver, then its really not worth it.
Exedy is a forged or billet chromoley steel flywheel with milled ring gear and balanced to 15K rpm. It has an air pickup that scoops up air and forces it over the clutch surface to cool the clutch and flywheel down.
CM and others i'd stay away from, alum is easy to warp and at high RPM high temp operation, the ring gear can fly off and chatter the clutch.
The only bad part is exedy flywheels cost about 400 new.
If I wanted a good flywheel for daily driving, Id go with an ITR flywheel. I found it very compromising, it let me downshift with ease, but didnt let the rev's drop too fast when I was daily driving.
BUT im a very spirited driver, so i enjoy the 8.8 lbs combo'd with my kaaz LSD YS1 tranny
anyone that says kaaz isnt a good LSD, you dunno whats up either.
my thoughts... stock flywheel is GAY.
ITR flywheel is a GREAT bang for the buck, its only 80-120 bucks used +25-30 bux for resurface.
exedy 8.8 is really cool for quick rev's, but kinda pointless for a daily driver. Unless you are a spirited driver, then its really not worth it.
Exedy is a forged or billet chromoley steel flywheel with milled ring gear and balanced to 15K rpm. It has an air pickup that scoops up air and forces it over the clutch surface to cool the clutch and flywheel down.
CM and others i'd stay away from, alum is easy to warp and at high RPM high temp operation, the ring gear can fly off and chatter the clutch.
The only bad part is exedy flywheels cost about 400 new.
If I wanted a good flywheel for daily driving, Id go with an ITR flywheel. I found it very compromising, it let me downshift with ease, but didnt let the rev's drop too fast when I was daily driving.
BUT im a very spirited driver, so i enjoy the 8.8 lbs combo'd with my kaaz LSD YS1 tranny

anyone that says kaaz isnt a good LSD, you dunno whats up either.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive personally had all three, stock flywheel approx 19lbs, ITR flywheel approx 14.5lbs and exedy 8.8lbs flywheel...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
was your ITR FW stock? or lightened even more by a machine shop? I ask cuz the ITR FW in stock form is around 17-19lbs, not 14.5, its only slightly if at all noticeably lighter than a regular 20-21lbs B-series FW.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
was your ITR FW stock? or lightened even more by a machine shop? I ask cuz the ITR FW in stock form is around 17-19lbs, not 14.5, its only slightly if at all noticeably lighter than a regular 20-21lbs B-series FW.
Originally Posted by Katman
was your ITR FW stock? or lightened even more by a machine shop? I ask cuz the ITR FW in stock form is around 17-19lbs, not 14.5, its only slightly if at all noticeably lighter than a regular 20-21lbs B-series FW.
its one of those digital bathroom scales, do i dont think its too inacurate, but maybe its just really off.
But honestly, its more then slightly lighter, I noticed the second i turned my car and went to engage the clutch.
I dunno, i think im one of the few people that have tested all 3 in the period of 3 months. Dropping my motor that many times... its getting old.
1st time was my crvtec on stock b16 clutch/flywheel, the clutch couldnt handle the torque of the b20, so I upgraded to ACT HDSS setup... i figured while pulling the motor, why not put on an ITR flywheel aswell, I wanted something more agressive. So after that, I was fairly happy with that.
I got used to being able to do quick downshifts and buzz through turns and such. It was pretty fun. Then that got kinda dull kinda fast... my rev's wernt going up fast enough, and I felt like I was waiting for the rev's to go up to get through a turn. Though I liked the drivability of the flywheel. It gave me the increase in rev's w/o sacraficing daily driving.
Well, me being me, I sold my b20vtec longblock because I needed some cash. I came up on a good deal on this exedy flywheel that I have now. So it was done, putting in a stock *cry* b16, I figured ill be able to have fun with it. I must admit, my car is slow as ****, but its FUN to drive, at the same time, I got rid of my old jalopy YS1 grinding gearbox and upgraded to a freshly built YS1 w/ KAAZ LSD *drool*
With the current setup, I'm able to downshift and revmatch with ease. What before used to be difficult and frustrating waiting for those stupid RPM's to climb (how many times have you gone to rev match and slightly been off and the car jerks a little) Im a perfectionist, I like it perfect every time...
With all that said and done, it soulds pretty glorified, seems like EVERYONE should have one. Well, now for the bad. The rev's go up fast, but the fall FAST. I WOULD HATE life if I had a 6 puck or a very agressive clutch. Light flywheel + Strong clutch=shitty daily driving. Since I have an HDSS, its really mellow because I can ride it all day long and no issues there. But since the rev's go up so fast, you have no momentum, and the second you engadge the clutch, the RPMS drop just as fast as they went up. Anyone who isnt used to driving my car, or not used to driving a lightend flywheel car will easily stall out the first few times. I dont know how you crazy guys with 6 pucks and flywheels less then 8 lbs live with yourself.
In traffic, I find myself doing alright, but going from stoplight to stoplight, I feel that I always have to shift really quick. Not that it bothers me, I have a Skunk2 shortshifter and shift **** combined with the short gear'd YS1, but I worry about the syncro life, so far no grinds... and im very gental when crusing and have gotten good at giving slight gas to hold rpm drop so i can let the tranny "shift by itself" and not "pressure" it into any gear. Maybe you people with 1800 dollar spoon ITR trannys who daily drive to work and back would be bothered by the increase in need to shift briskly.
I dunno, once again these are just my experiances.
So with my ACT HDSS clutch and pressure plate, the exedy flywheel and the close geared LSD YS1 tranny... my road race car is done. Basicly I knew I was going to be slow, I faced those facts and figured out a way to still make my car fun to drive.
Anyway, thats my story of 3 flywheels....
Modified by irev210 at 7:29 AM 7/12/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Although I don't quite understand your meaning of your statement:
"the overall mass is still too far outboard to really net you the benefits of a good lightened FW"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you've ever seen the Toda unit , it has ALL the weight as far in as possible , it kills every other FW as far as revs even much lighter units because of where the actual weight is removed...
Although I don't quite understand your meaning of your statement:
"the overall mass is still too far outboard to really net you the benefits of a good lightened FW"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you've ever seen the Toda unit , it has ALL the weight as far in as possible , it kills every other FW as far as revs even much lighter units because of where the actual weight is removed...
just went with a CM flywheel and am in the break in process currently on
the clutch. all I can say is that everything involving the motor happens much
quicker and its still very easily driven in traffic. I chose to go with an ITR
pressure plate and CM segmented kevlar disk. I like how it grabs, so far
I havent put together a full 1-2-3-4gear pulls WOT VTEC yet. I am most looking
forward to it though... 300mi only 200 miles left...
I had an ITR
flwyheel for a while and it is a nice upgrade. Since I found the CM disk and
flwyheel for $350 I ran with that. I still have the ITR flywheel. I can ship it to you if
you want it. Its been used and once cut .010" or so. My mechanic said based on
the looks of it it can be polished up and reused. Send me a PM if its worth anything
to you.
the clutch. all I can say is that everything involving the motor happens much
quicker and its still very easily driven in traffic. I chose to go with an ITR
pressure plate and CM segmented kevlar disk. I like how it grabs, so far
I havent put together a full 1-2-3-4gear pulls WOT VTEC yet. I am most looking
forward to it though... 300mi only 200 miles left...
I had an ITRflwyheel for a while and it is a nice upgrade. Since I found the CM disk and
flwyheel for $350 I ran with that. I still have the ITR flywheel. I can ship it to you if
you want it. Its been used and once cut .010" or so. My mechanic said based on
the looks of it it can be polished up and reused. Send me a PM if its worth anything
to you.
just sent a check out for an ITR flywheel.. i just choose to go with the ITR flywheel (lighten it soon as i get it) and now im thinking between ACT heavy duty or ACT 6 puck for a clutch...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFSiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Katman,
I weighted my ITR (2000) flywheel and with the pilot bearing it was 14.1 lbs.
HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>
would a 97 ITR weigh the same? or are they a lil differnt?
I weighted my ITR (2000) flywheel and with the pilot bearing it was 14.1 lbs.
HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>
would a 97 ITR weigh the same? or are they a lil differnt?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFSiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Katman,
I weighted my ITR (2000) flywheel and with the pilot bearing it was 14.1 lbs.
HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>
k i knew i wasnt on crack
I weighted my ITR (2000) flywheel and with the pilot bearing it was 14.1 lbs.
HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>
k i knew i wasnt on crack
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSTEALTH GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
would a 97 ITR weigh the same? or are they a lil differnt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just picked one up and I weighed it with my bathroom scale, it was 14.~~lbs.
So, to answer your question, yes.
would a 97 ITR weigh the same? or are they a lil differnt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just picked one up and I weighed it with my bathroom scale, it was 14.~~lbs.
So, to answer your question, yes.


