Here is the scoop, Running a resistor box.

My 4 injectors all have power on the Blk/Ylw wire. (11.7v)

On the colored wires starting from the dizzy side are
inj#4 Inj#3 inj#2 Inj#1
[0.9|11.7] [0.9|11.7] [0.0|11.7] [0.3|11.7]

The only injector firing is the number 3 injector.


Any help would be awesome.

 

Sorry, what does, "On the colored wires starting from the dizzy side are
inj#4 Inj#3 inj#2 Inj#1
[0.9|11.7] [0.9|11.7] [0.0|11.7] [0.3|11.7]" mean, is that the voltage you are getting at the other lead, [not the black/yellow] on the injectors and what is the diff., [0.9l11.7] between the two.???

If an injector is not firing, and there is power on the power side, [black/yellow] then the problem must be the injector, wiring from ECU/ECM or the ECU/ECM itself, injector ground pulse is supplied to the injector by the ECU/ECM.

You test for power on the power side of injector, [black/yellow in your case] the black/yellow should be hot when ign. switch is in run or start position, you check for a ground pulse on the other lead of the injector, [lead will be a diff. color at each injector].

A noid light is best for testing power and ground pulse at the injector but you can use a 12V LED type test light, or any 12V LED or LED made for 12V, [3V LED with resistor] a meter is not fast enough. 94

 

The colored wires are the negative to the coil in your injector just like fcm already said.
Check continuity from the injector to the harness to the ecu side of the harness if all is good most likely the ecu.
Do you have any codes?
And I would check the wiring to the 12vsource into the ecu. Ipg1 and 2. There should be 12v constant

 

Not exactly, IPG1 and IPG2 are switched powers, [hot in run and start] supplied by the injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay, not trying to be a smart-***, just accurate. 94

 

I like reading FCM's replies. He always comes in with good experience feedback.

 

I didn't mean constant with the key off.

And since they both run threw the same junction connector that's why I asked to check if one positive was missing (hot in or cranking obviously)

 

Obvious to you and me and most people, but to a n0ob maybe not. 94

 

Yes you are right I thought of that after the post.

 

update:

The person who designed the harness had mixed up 2injector wires, The blue and the red.

They were swapped like so
B3 -> c21
B4 -> c8

Got that fixed.

I also noticed there was no connection between b1/9 to the injectors.
I ran a wire from the 10 pos. shock tower plug to B1/9

I am also getting conncetion between all the "colored" wires from the injectors to the ecu How ever each colored wire (red,blur,yellow,brown) all have 3.3V and all the yellow/Black all read 11.7 volts.

Any advice?

 

When you test for power on the ground side of a load that is not grounded, [that can be an injector , or a light bulb or any load] you will read voltage, the voltage that is on the power side, [in your case it is 11.7V] less the resistance of the load, [in your case the injector coil] equals 3.3V, that would indicate the coil is not "open" and injector will spray if a ground is supplied to the neg.(-) side, the ground is supplied by the ECU/ECM as a short pulse, how much fuel is injected will depend on the length of the pulse, also controlled by the ECU/ECM , with information form sensors, [like the TPS].

If the ECU/ECM is not supplying the the ground pulse then there is obviously a problem, you have already identified a wiring problem, maybe there are more, or maybe the ECU/ECM is just N/G. 94

 

[QUOTE=thegatekeeper14;47027522]update:

The person who designed the harness had mixed up 2injector wires, The blue and the red.

They were swapped like so
B3 -> c21
B4 -> c8

Got that fixed.

I also noticed there was no connection between b1/9 to the injectors.
I ran a wire from the 10 pos. shock tower plug to B1/9

I am also getting conncetion between all the "colored" wires from the injectors to the ecu How ever each colored wire (red,blur,yellow,brown) all have 3.3V and all the yellow/Black all read 11.7 volts.

Any advice?[/QUOTE

What harness and ecu do you have? Obd1 or obd2? Does b1\9 mean pin location b1 and b9?
Are you saying you ran a 12v source to those pin locations?
I'm looking at a obd1 ecu pinout and b1 is the igp1 and b9 is the starter signal switch. Your checking for connections going to the injectors from there?
This is a little confusing.

 

Note: when the injectors clips are plugged in i am reading 11.7 volts to all the colored wires at the ecu.

When unplugged i am getting the 3.3 volts at the colored wire. and 11.7v at the yellow/black

I am using a obd2b harness with a resistor box.

Also when the injector clip is plugged in to the injector, and the key is turned to the start position, the "colored" wire zeros out. "0.0v" when the key returns back to the on position the Voltage again reads .04v on the "colored" wire.

 

Well since you have broken wires in your harness I would take all the tape off and fix the breaks. I m thinking you maybe have a lot of corosion on a junction connector or a wire hanging by a strand. And your getting the voltage but when under a load its not flowwing enough current. Kind of like a resisitor before your resistor box.
Check the white black wire to the main relay for corosion then back to the fuse box. Book says its a 15amp fuse and hot at all times maybe the fuse has corosion inside.
Maybe the relay has a problem. Have you swapped it yet.

 

PGM-FI Main Relay supplies power to the injectors, there is power, there seems to be no ground pulse from the ECU/ECM. 94

 

relay tested out.
when I crank the engine the injectors "colored wire" zero out. when thee plugged in I have 11.7v at the colored wires going into the ecu.

 

Have you pulled your plugs after you crank the engine? Maybe they are firing and flodding the engine.
Swap out the ecu if all other wiring in the harness is checked and double checked.

 

Yea I have no starter now. FML!

When I jump the starter the fuel pump turns on.

 

Is the battery fully charged????
If you been cranking it over and over its most likely drained.
Was your fuel pump not turning on this whole time?
A lot more info would help

 

Fuel pump works, relay click, voltage at starter. just to turning.

 

What do you mean there is voltage at the starter, do you mean on the thick batt. lead, [that would be right] or do you mean the solenoid exciter lead, [starter lead]?

Try a bypass jump... https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...cm+bypass+jump 94

 

yea did that and starter works, there is also 11.7v at the spade terminal.