B20b swapped into stock 1991 integra.

Car was originally Auto, swapped that out for a Manual transmission.

We used the Auto Intake manifold with the LOVELY EGR (that was removed) and plugged off unneeded vacuum lines. (Failed smog for visual, we were hoping the tech was stupid)

When we initially got the car running, we were able to get the timing into spec, right on the money at 16*. It's my brother's car, he didn't tell me about a high idle until later (I forgot to adjust that initially)

Then we adjusted the idle, following the FSM, adjusted it down. It was sitting around 750 after all was said and done. Checked timing. WAY off. Almost at TDC off. Messed around with that and the idle (everytime we'd get it within spec we'd have to adjust the idle again, and it'd be right back out of spec.)

We can't figure out what the issue is. Everything lines up on the T-belt side, we've re-tensioned it several times and checked it over again and again, always coming out 'right'.

We are swapping the intake manifold today. Possibly there is a small air leak on the auto, that is causing it to idle high, and if we adjust it down, throwing it out of spec.

The only other thing that I can think of is a bad tension bearing. We didn't change that due to the bearing usually not being a failure prone part on a low mileage engine. I don't know if the tension bearing would cause the timing to be just a smidge off though.

We have a new tension bearing and spring. If we can't get ignition timing into spec, we'll just redo it and put the new stuff in.

It's literally RIGHT there. Nothing is off a tooth, car runs fine otherwise. No misfiring, no bogging, no codes.


Specs:

96 spec B20b from Attarco.
Auto B18A1 intake manifold (will be changed to manual today)
B18A1 Crank Pulley (needed it for the power steering belt)
New OEM timing belt/waterpump.
Correct 1991 PR4 Manual ECU with the AP sensor in it.

 

Intake manifold swap didnt help. Starting on the timing belt now. If the crank gear lines up fine, I'm assuming the tensioner is bad.

 

are u using an ebay dizzy??

 

As far as we know its oem. Why?

 

We took apart the distributor. Cap and rotor have been replaced before. Everything else is original. We installed an OEM cap and rotor. The car ran more smoothly, but timing is still sitting at 10*.

I broke down and ordered a crank pulley tool. When I originally did the belt, the engine was on a stand..I regret not triple checking the belt lol.

I think I didn't follow the initial belt installation properly, and I didn't install it tight enough . Once I tensioned the belt, I think the slack is just all over the place. That explains (to me at least) why the engine would run fine but the ignition timing to be just a hair off.

I'll be spending this weekend redoing the timing belt...

 

Changed the tension bearing. Belt was put back on, cycled, tensioned, no difference. At least I know my timing belt job was good the first time!

Started looking at other things, timing is spot on, when the idle is sitting around 1100 RPM.

FITV port (lower port on throttle body) pulls a bit of air when car is fully warm. We have the coolant return line blocked off, due to having no spot on the water pipe (B20 doesn't have it, B18A1 does, obviously.) We think this MIGHT be part of the problem. FSM states there should not be any suction from the lower port at operating temp (after fan cycles on.)
I'm wanting to block off the FITV completely, and see if that makes any difference. The only issue with this is that it may result in a 'tampered with' failed smog visual spec. Unless I make a sneaky pete plate behind the FITV....

The other issue may be a typical IACV. We've cleaned it, cleaned it, CLEANED IT! It may just be bad. It sucks air, I can cover the upper port, and it won't choke the engine to death, but it will drop the idle dramatically. We are looking for a known good IACV, to test if that may be the problem. If anyone has one, that'd be great, it's a long bolt spread IACV, typical of the older OBD0 Hondas...