ignition problem please help
last 2 weeks my car has been acting up strange and shutting up while im driving
im pretty sure its a distributor problem since the rpm goes to 0 and the engine is still spinning when im driving like 45mph
heres my set up
1995 civic ex coupe
b20b engine with obd 1 wire harness spliced for obd2 ls distributer.
computer tuned on neptune(in the video it was on crome but it still does the same thing)
here a video of the problem
http://youtu.be/RhWKhWnRkvA
its like the distributer just shuts off while im driving and the check engine light goes on untill the spark goes back
so heres what ive done so far:
1 re do the obd1 to obd 2 plug wireing all wires are soldered and heat wraped
2 i tried 3 different coilpacks/ignitors
3i have brand new spark plug wires
4i re soldered the main relay like this artical says: http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainr...l#Troubleshoot
5 tryed different computers its not a computer problem
6 cleaned cap and rotor everything looks good
i dont know what else to do besides replacing the entire distributer but id thought id post this before spending the money on one maybe theres somthing else i missed
im pretty sure its a distributor problem since the rpm goes to 0 and the engine is still spinning when im driving like 45mph
heres my set up
1995 civic ex coupe
b20b engine with obd 1 wire harness spliced for obd2 ls distributer.
computer tuned on neptune(in the video it was on crome but it still does the same thing)
here a video of the problem
http://youtu.be/RhWKhWnRkvA
its like the distributer just shuts off while im driving and the check engine light goes on untill the spark goes back
so heres what ive done so far:
1 re do the obd1 to obd 2 plug wireing all wires are soldered and heat wraped
2 i tried 3 different coilpacks/ignitors
3i have brand new spark plug wires
4i re soldered the main relay like this artical says: http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainr...l#Troubleshoot
5 tryed different computers its not a computer problem
6 cleaned cap and rotor everything looks good
i dont know what else to do besides replacing the entire distributer but id thought id post this before spending the money on one maybe theres somthing else i missed
Last edited by alextrox69; Dec 10, 2011 at 07:43 AM.
also when the ingtion cuts off i can turn the key off and on and it comes right bck on everytime. leading me to belive its a component problem not wireing. but im out o ideas idk where to start
on my car, the speedo would shut off and the battery light would come on, but it looks like everything else you covered.
I know the honda ignitions do this, mine did, i just ripped one out of a parts car and i was good to go.
I know the honda ignitions do this, mine did, i just ripped one out of a parts car and i was good to go.
Sounds like you are loosing power to the distributor assembly, so I am guessing ign. switch also.
Try this, use a jumper lead to supply power directly from the batt. to the distributor assembly, [should be a black/yellow lead at distributor assembly plug. 94
Try this, use a jumper lead to supply power directly from the batt. to the distributor assembly, [should be a black/yellow lead at distributor assembly plug. 94
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Had this problem in my 93 del sol and 95 civic coupe. Was the ignition switch. Car would turn off on its own. Sometimes you will notice that the on position was not there.
Seems to me like a common prob on 92 95 civics
Seems to me like a common prob on 92 95 civics
BUMP!!! im still having the problem and its wrose then before....instead of just shutting off with the check engine light on the check engine stays on and the ccar keeps sputering and the rpms go all over the place...could it be the tps? any ideas anyone...please help ive had this problem for very long
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-OiyATcUJM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-OiyATcUJM
tried this and it did the same thing
its like the check engine light was flickering like a bad connection or something
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSudksDQtKI
Before you throw any more parts at the problem, check your grounds, batt. cable clamp and batt. post, batt. to chassis, chassis to engine, [batt. to engine if done that way], also check the grounds at the thermostat housing, [engine harness grounds].
Do not just eyeball the connections, undo them, clean them and then reconnect them, even if they look good.
The grounds may not be the problem but do it to eliminate them as the possible problem.
Another thing I would check is to make sure IPG1 and IPG2 at ECU have power and they do not loose power when engine is cutting out. 94
Do not just eyeball the connections, undo them, clean them and then reconnect them, even if they look good.
The grounds may not be the problem but do it to eliminate them as the possible problem.
Another thing I would check is to make sure IPG1 and IPG2 at ECU have power and they do not loose power when engine is cutting out. 94
how can i check the code if when the problem goes away so does the check engine light and then the car runs good for three days stright....
also what could cause a miss fire....distributor has been chaned....i even tried wiring power directly to the distributor t the battery and it still did the same thing.
also my car is chipped on neptune(already tiried other computers the problem still occurs)
whats Ode?
all grounds have been changed...theres even a ground going front the battery to the thermostat ground....
so that has been eliminated
also whats ipg1 and ipg2 and how do i check it?
and can i say the alarm wireing could cause a problem? in the directions you have to wire the alarm in and one wire gets spliced into the ignition inuput signal wire....what does that wire do or send?
and thanks for all the responses!! my turbo kit comes in tuesday i would like to get this problem out of the way so i can put it on and get dynoed no problem..this problem has been such a pain lol.....
also what could cause a miss fire....distributor has been chaned....i even tried wiring power directly to the distributor t the battery and it still did the same thing.
also my car is chipped on neptune(already tiried other computers the problem still occurs)
whats Ode?
Before you throw any more parts at the problem, check your grounds, batt. cable clamp and batt. post, batt. to chassis, chassis to engine, [batt. to engine if done that way], also check the grounds at the thermostat housing, [engine harness grounds].
Do not just eyeball the connections, undo them, clean them and then reconnect them, even if they look good.
The grounds may not be the problem but do it to eliminate them as the possible problem.
Another thing I would check is to make sure IPG1 and IPG2 at ECU have power and they do not loose power when engine is cutting out. 94
Do not just eyeball the connections, undo them, clean them and then reconnect them, even if they look good.
The grounds may not be the problem but do it to eliminate them as the possible problem.
Another thing I would check is to make sure IPG1 and IPG2 at ECU have power and they do not loose power when engine is cutting out. 94
so that has been eliminated
also whats ipg1 and ipg2 and how do i check it?
and can i say the alarm wireing could cause a problem? in the directions you have to wire the alarm in and one wire gets spliced into the ignition inuput signal wire....what does that wire do or send?
and thanks for all the responses!! my turbo kit comes in tuesday i would like to get this problem out of the way so i can put it on and get dynoed no problem..this problem has been such a pain lol.....
Codes are stored, ones a code has been "generated" it will be stored in the ECU/ECM until it is erased.
Pretty sure HondaPartsHero means OBD, [on board diagnostics] and Obe is a typo.
IPG1 and IPG2 are 12V+ "signals" from the fuel injector relay, [in PGM-FI Main Relay], to test confirm both have 12V+ at all times when engine is running, make sure you are not loosing power on either one when engine misfires.
The ign. lead on the alarm is an input for the alarm and should have no effect on car, however to elliminate it, unplug the alarm brain. 94
Pretty sure HondaPartsHero means OBD, [on board diagnostics] and Obe is a typo.
IPG1 and IPG2 are 12V+ "signals" from the fuel injector relay, [in PGM-FI Main Relay], to test confirm both have 12V+ at all times when engine is running, make sure you are not loosing power on either one when engine misfires.
The ign. lead on the alarm is an input for the alarm and should have no effect on car, however to elliminate it, unplug the alarm brain. 94
YOU NEED TO BUY AN OHM/VOLT METER... Check for all your positives going to the distributor when this happens you need to trouble shoot this problem as its happening. Test your main relay find the wiring diagram for your car.. you changed pretty much everything already
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