idle on b16A
Have a problem with idle, keeps going up and down! i have all ready changed pcv valve, nothin, changed idle control valve, nothin, only way to keep it from going up and down is putting the idle at around 1300rpm and i want it to go down but when i turn on the A/C idle goes dowm and it starts doing it again! what can it be? TPS?
yes, it could be the TPS. it could also be air gaps in the cooling system...
to check the TPS with the car off, make sure it's around .5V closed and 4.5 floored
to check the coolant, if it doesn't have a coolant bleeder valve in front of the head, you can start it cold with the radiator cap off. make sure it's topped off. start the car with the a/c on or atleast the defroster and lights on. it'll start to come out of the top a bit as it heats up, but that's ok. when the thermostat opens, it'll all suck down. at this point, turn the heat on, top it off, let it idle a bit more until there are no bubbles, you can even rev it little bit by tapping the throttle rotor, and then put the cap on. top off the over flow to the max line and it should be good. next time you drive the car check the coolant overflow and top off if necessary.
if the engine was not disassembled prior to the swap, then you've probably solved the problem, but after that, if you are all ok there and all vacuum lines are ok and all nipples are spoken for, the first culprit is usually the TB gasket, second is intake mani gasket.
you can take carb cleaner with a tube on the nozzle and spray around the flanges of the intake mani and TB. it's possible that you could find the leak that way because it will suck in the carb cleaner and the idle will change as soon as you hit the spot.
to check the TPS with the car off, make sure it's around .5V closed and 4.5 floored
to check the coolant, if it doesn't have a coolant bleeder valve in front of the head, you can start it cold with the radiator cap off. make sure it's topped off. start the car with the a/c on or atleast the defroster and lights on. it'll start to come out of the top a bit as it heats up, but that's ok. when the thermostat opens, it'll all suck down. at this point, turn the heat on, top it off, let it idle a bit more until there are no bubbles, you can even rev it little bit by tapping the throttle rotor, and then put the cap on. top off the over flow to the max line and it should be good. next time you drive the car check the coolant overflow and top off if necessary.
if the engine was not disassembled prior to the swap, then you've probably solved the problem, but after that, if you are all ok there and all vacuum lines are ok and all nipples are spoken for, the first culprit is usually the TB gasket, second is intake mani gasket.
you can take carb cleaner with a tube on the nozzle and spray around the flanges of the intake mani and TB. it's possible that you could find the leak that way because it will suck in the carb cleaner and the idle will change as soon as you hit the spot.
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TearSDMF89dx
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jan 3, 2012 04:31 AM




